Couple questions on random orbital polishing and waxing
#16
Another tip with SIP (Super Intensive Polish)...make sure you do a very good wipedown afterwords to insure you've really finished the job. SIP tens to decieve a little as it hides defects some...you'll come back a couple of weeks later and start to notice them re-appearing if you didn't get them all the first time.
That said...SIP is probably my favorite polish out there right now for medium duty work.
Andy
That said...SIP is probably my favorite polish out there right now for medium duty work.
Andy
The reason I ask is that a lot of people go (PG) > SIP > (106ff) > Zaino AIO > CS it seems and a few people I asked said that Menzerna SIP had no fillers and you didn't need 50/50 IPA wipedown before Z-AIO, I thought (maybe they were talking about IP?)
#17
Oh wow I didn't realize that SIP had fillers in it (maybe I'm jumbled, too much info on too many products on autopia). Is it silicone or oil?
The reason I ask is that a lot of people go (PG) > SIP > (106ff) > Zaino AIO > CS it seems and a few people I asked said that Menzerna SIP had no fillers and you didn't need 50/50 IPA wipedown before Z-AIO, I thought (maybe they were talking about IP?)
The reason I ask is that a lot of people go (PG) > SIP > (106ff) > Zaino AIO > CS it seems and a few people I asked said that Menzerna SIP had no fillers and you didn't need 50/50 IPA wipedown before Z-AIO, I thought (maybe they were talking about IP?)
http://www.autopia.org/forum/detaili...servation.html
Then Todd (TH0001) had a couple of customers complain that they got slight marring showing up only a couple of weeks after their details and then he and several others including Rydawg and other respected members on the forum did some pretty intensive testing and found that the carrier / lubricating agents in the SIP indeed do have some filling properties and require a good wipedown with alcohol or Prepsol to see if you're truely left with a defect free surface or not. You can see Todd's and others comments about SIP here in this thread where someone used it by hand and was amazed by the results. Personally I don't even use SIP by Orbital anymore because I feel it's most effective by rotary only.
http://www.autopia.org/forum/car-det...discovery.html
I hope nobody takes this as me bashing the SIP as it's still my favorite medium duty polish and when used via rotary with a purple foamed wool pad it works wonders and still finishes down to an amazing finish that only requires the lightest of finishing polishes to make a stunning look...you just have to be aware that it can fill when you're using it.
Andy
#18
I was told by my clear bra installer (and the mfg's website): Do NOT polish your clear bra, it will damage it. Also, I would recommend taping off the edges, you don't want polish getting jammed into the edge, it's almost impossible to get out, and makes the line much more visible. Same goes for waxes, if you use wax instead of sealant, avoid the edge of the clear bra.
While you cannot polish the clear bra, you can use clay bar to clean it up. I have also heard of people who have gone after light scratches on clear bra material with a heat gun, basically very carefully heating it up so it melts the top bit, and then it smooths out the scratch. I have not yet gotten a scratch big enough to tempt me to try this technique yet.
Wax and/or seal your clear bra just like your paint, except do it by hand or very gently with the orbital (if you use your orbital to apply and buff the wax).
While you cannot polish the clear bra, you can use clay bar to clean it up. I have also heard of people who have gone after light scratches on clear bra material with a heat gun, basically very carefully heating it up so it melts the top bit, and then it smooths out the scratch. I have not yet gotten a scratch big enough to tempt me to try this technique yet.
Wax and/or seal your clear bra just like your paint, except do it by hand or very gently with the orbital (if you use your orbital to apply and buff the wax).
Thanks for the clear bra tips-- I ended up with both the original 3M (hood) as well as VentureShield (bumper) on my 996. As you mention, both recommend waxing but no polish.
Regarding the heat gun--I have actually done this on a few Ventureshield scratches and it worked just perfect--kind of amazing to watch, actually.. I found a technical bulletin on this on a UK Ventureshield website. However, ventureshield is a single layer plastic, so I can see where this would work. 3M is a layered system, so I would not want to try the heat gun on it (at least not on my car)
#19
I hope nobody takes this as me bashing the SIP as it's still my favorite medium duty polish and when used via rotary with a purple foamed wool pad it works wonders and still finishes down to an amazing finish that only requires the lightest of finishing polishes to make a stunning look...you just have to be aware that it can fill when you're using it.
Andy
Andy
I'm just a regular guy doing my own vehicles, and this was my first time polishing one of my cars with a machine, so I wanted to stay on the safe side and went with the orbital-only UDM, but in retrospect I think I should have gone with the dual purpose Makita machine for a few bucks extra, if not for paint initially then for metal and chrome etc. Currently I have to borrow my dad's buffing wheels for that stuff, which means dismounting things like exhaust tips from the vehicle.
#20
Thanks Andy. When I get around to doing the 996 I will definitely try a wipedown, I just don't really want to buy a drum of prepsol (where am I going to keep the thing?). The thing I found strange about the hand application thread is that he said he did wipedown with alcohol, no marring, and then the following and final response was "did you do several passes of IPA or just one?". Who's to say the marring wasn't reintroduced by overly aggressive wiping in multiple passes, or by improper prepsol application. Who knows, but I will definitely hit a spot on the porsche with straight IPA after SIP and post pics after it dries.
I'm just a regular guy doing my own vehicles, and this was my first time polishing one of my cars with a machine, so I wanted to stay on the safe side and went with the orbital-only UDM, but in retrospect I think I should have gone with the dual purpose Makita machine for a few bucks extra, if not for paint initially then for metal and chrome etc. Currently I have to borrow my dad's buffing wheels for that stuff, which means dismounting things like exhaust tips from the vehicle.
I'm just a regular guy doing my own vehicles, and this was my first time polishing one of my cars with a machine, so I wanted to stay on the safe side and went with the orbital-only UDM, but in retrospect I think I should have gone with the dual purpose Makita machine for a few bucks extra, if not for paint initially then for metal and chrome etc. Currently I have to borrow my dad's buffing wheels for that stuff, which means dismounting things like exhaust tips from the vehicle.
Happy Detailing.
Andy