othomasjr

I used touch up paint from Advance auto. Get the heather mist metallic for Honda. Mine weren't rusted as bad as yours so I just painted over them without even taking the wheels off. It worked great and has held up well so far.
An easy and quick fix.

AndyK

I bet Rustoleum makes a silver that goes right over the rust and looks good. I just don't have the patience to take all the lug bolts off and paint them while the car sits on jack stands, etc.

steve germany

I would not recommend this method! Ebay has stainless bolts for a reasonable price.

smshirk

I have a couple of sets and found out the hard way that some after market wheels will not work with the standard nuts. Another reason to stick with Porsche wheels

996 Convert

Anyone know if the stainless ones on ebay have the floating spacer like the oem ones? I tried emailing the seller but he is either stupid or a jerk.

RayGT3

No floating spacer

cdodkin

Go with Automotion, the you know you're getting a set with the right floating shoulder piece etc etc

Here's my extra long set from them - for wheels fitted to 15mm spacers - same idea though

996 Convert

Darn, what's the concensus on whether or not the floating spacer is necessary?

cdodkin

I was told it was needed.

Makes sense when you think about the way the shoulder of the bolt meets the Porsche wheel.

Bob Rouleau

A word of caution, the thread on Porsche bolts (studs were used on the 993 and earlier cars) is not special. On the other hand check carefully to make sure you get the right taper. The side of the nut touching the wheel is not flat and the taper is important.

steve germany

The floating spacers are a way to be able to use industry standard high tensile streangth bolts without having to design and manufacture special wheel bolts with the taper (and increased contact area) milled in. The "floating" thing is a misnomer. They are just adapters for tapered wheel counter sinks. Some would say that the increased contact area increases heat transfer and they would be correct (miniscule). T6 and up is what you want to run for optimal streangth (racing) but that is unnecessary for N/A driving.

Bottom line? Unless you are racing the foo foo bolts will work just fine. For racing, high tenstile bolts with "floating" adaptors are the cheapest way to ensure that your wheels will stay on when braking from 200mph -hundreds of times.

BTW - Porsche recommends replacing the bolts every time the tires are changed.

Last final note - there is a Porsche TSB that recommends that the wheel bolts should be replaced with the lighter 14mm head deapth bolts - the 15.5 mm head bolts seem to of been excessive and are unnecessary unsprung wheel weight. ahh - sure...

Rickker

What started off as a simple question from me, has become a most informative thread!

Now here's a related question: Most cars have wheels studs, so when you are changing wheels, you lift the wheel up, juggle it until it slides on the studs, and then thread on the lug nuts. Pretty straight forward. But the 996 does not use studs as Tippy pointed out to me.

I am about to remove my snow tires/wheels and install the summer ones. The rear wheels are heavy, at least for my 65 year old body. Is there a trick to position the wheel in place, so that one of the wheel bolts can be threaded into the hub? It seems this job would be a lot easier with studs and wheels nuts, rather than the bolts used on the 996. It seems like 3 hands are needed. How do you guys handle this fairly common task?

....Rickker

cdodkin

Porsche have you covered.

If you look in your Porsche tool roll, you'll see a 4-5 inch long metal shaft with a thread on one end, and a hole through the other end.

This is a locator pin for fitting wheels back onto the hubs.

You screw the pin into the hub instead of a bolt, make sure the pin is at the top of the hub or the hole nearest the top.

You then pick up your wheel, and slide the top hole over the pin, which now takes the weight while you press the wheel in at the bottom, and locate your first bolt.

Put in a few more bolts, then remove the pin (the hole in the end takes the screwdriver shaft as a lever in case it's tight).

Put in the last bolts - tighten - drop the car off the jack - torque to the correct setting.

Done!

RayGT3

Some guys, myself included, use two pins placed at the top, even easier to place the tire. IMHO

Tippy

I started a thread over this locating pin when I first got my car and everyone was like, dude, you didn't get the memo? haha