chsu74

Ludwig,

Does that mean you had an engine replacement? Investing in a set of winter tires to run it in the winter is not a bad idea. I enjoy driving my p-car in the winter just as much when its dry out. I also have driven it when it has less than 3 inches of snow and it handles just fine.

ls911

This could very well be my problem with the intermittent oil leak.
I will leave the car alone until I can drive it, get a battery maintainer, and oh yea,
I greatly appreciate both the information and proper care tips given obviously I have much learning to do.

gota911

That is exactly why Rennlist is so great! There are a lot of very knowledgeable people here and, best of all, they are willing to share that knowledge.

ls911

Hey Chao,

As far as I can tell, no engine replacement. I have not read much on just replacing the intermediate shaft seal, you would think that this would mean a new engine as well.
The work done included;

Sealing ring F interm shaft replaced
Transmission removed/cleaned
Clutch touched up
Engine cleaned

The parts used;

8 10 x 50 screws
1 hex nut M8 x 1
1 shaft housing
1 alum seal ring
3 seal ring 27 x 30
(fly wheel removed + reinstd)
3 torx screw 6 x 20
4 screw hex-HD 6 x 35

This work was done Nov 05 and since 5000 miles have been added. The car runs super and had no signs of a leak until this posting. I do have the number of the dealer (Barrier out of Bellevue Wa) and mechanic. I will call on this for some further info, if I can get it.
I have thought about driving in winter but I live on a bit of a BIG hill and with snow/ice it can get touchy even with my 4x4's. Spokane does not use salt. Normally we do not get that much snow or rain around here, that moisture stays west from here. I was counting on doing winter driving when the roads are good/dry, plenty of chances for this in Spokane.
This year happens to be a bad snow year, and the crap won't melt . Figures, I bought the car in late fall.

Ludwig

Jake Ok

I spoke to a master Porsche mechanic here in TO and warming up the car before driving is recommended. Especially in cold weather, the idling should be under 1000rpm before driving. And for those who store their P cars in the winter time, good idea to run the car for about 10 mins every so often.

BruceP

I don't mean to seem like a *****, but that is just terrible advice. The only motive I can imagine for a mechanic to say this is to drum up business. Or maybe it's some kind of holdover from the oil-cooled days. No credible resource out there, car manufacturers included, recommends idling a cold car for ten minutes and then shutting it down as a form of 'maintenance'. And while I guess I would wait until my idle dropped, that happens very quickly in these cars. I start it, wait no more than a few seconds and then drive. Like the manual says.

Benjamin Choi

do what it tells you to do in the porsche owner's manual, how much simpler can it get i don't know.

pongobaz

The problem with warming up the engine to operating temp before driving (or not; if it's stored) is that all the other components are still cold (transmission, brakes, tires, etc...); ideally you want everything at optimal operating temp around the same time.
I start her up, buckle up, turn on the seat heater, radio then I just drive. Total time from start to drive: maybe 40 secs. I keep the revs below 4000rpm until the engine is at operating temp.

Jake Ok

Hey Bruce,

This comes from a very reputable source and respected Porsche mechanic. Since you're also in TO, you may want to think twice before supporting this theory before knowing the source.

BruceP

With all due respect, mechanics fix things. Engineers know how they work. Occasionally, you'll find one that can do the other, but it shouldn't be assumed. No need to think twice. If you've got some kind of ace up your sleeve about the source, then by all means play it. Otherwise, it sounds to me like another case of a physiotherapist pretending to be a doctor. Blows me away how EVERYBODY thinks they're smarter than Porsche...

Jake Ok

WOW...sounds like you're taking this personal. Ever thought why the maual would state no warming up required. Maybe they are trying to be enviromentally correct.

Just want to be clear...what I wrote is is not advice, just information. Use it or dump it.

BruceP

Not remotely personal, though I thought your "think twice" comment was a bit heavy-handed. If it was just "information", I shouldn't think that the location of the mechanic in question would be very relevant. I'd be happy to quote a couple of mechanics too, if you like, living just as close and having the opposite opinion.

It's your car, so do as you like. As for being environmentally correct, I'm going to put my money on properly heated catalysts to do that job. Modern cars are never dirtier than at a cold idle. And that is not an opinion.

Jake Ok

Hey Bruce,

Where do you take your car for service? No hard feelings and here is a link on the topic that was previously discussed. Interesting feedback.

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=50226

1999Porsche911

The biggest contributer to engine wear is not the temporary lack of oil, but condensation in the cylinders and valvetrain. This moisture can more quickly score the pistons, cylinders, valve guides, etc faster than an inadequate supply of oil will. Moisture in the oil is also a major source of bearing wear.

Unless your car is stored in a warm, dry place, the worse thing you can do is to start an engine and run it for a few minutes and then shut it down. Not only does this not remove mositure in the engine (and exhaust system), but the amount of moisture will increase as the engine cools. To reduce the accumulation of moisture, your engine should be run for at least 15 minutes longer than the coolant temperature takes to reach 190F. Obviously, letting the engine cool in a climate controlled garage will help reduce moisture accumulation.

It is also a fallacy that it is better to let a car sit in storage versus starting it and running periodically. Unless the car is prepared for long term storage (quite involved), while the engine is sitting, moisture is accumulating and oxidation is occuring. And, like a cancer, this oxidation will continuously grow and eat away material. Periodically running the engine will remove the cancer and will coat the surface with protective oil.

Your transmission fluid will also be warmed up by idling the car in neutral with the clutch engaged.

Fat Sled

Just had the car serviced at Callas Rennsport in Torrance CA. Tony (who has won at LeMans and voted #1 mechanic with #1 team at race) specifically told me to start the car and drive off without warming it up. I'm no mechanic, but I'll listen to a guy with a resume such as his. I truly forget the reason why he said to do this, but it was the first thing he mentioned when giving me some history and information about maintaining my car. My $0.02