Should I corner balance my C4S?
#16
Nordschleife Master
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Very welcome.
Just so we're on the same page, I am not saying there is anything wrong with your settings as settings are a personal preference thing, but more I just wanted to understand that you understand why I questioned your choice for toe-in up front.
Happy Motoring and Happy Holidays!
Just so we're on the same page, I am not saying there is anything wrong with your settings as settings are a personal preference thing, but more I just wanted to understand that you understand why I questioned your choice for toe-in up front.
Happy Motoring and Happy Holidays!
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#17
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Thread Starter
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Thanks for the feedback. I'm excited to feel the difference between my stock suspension and the PSS9s on the track. I'm leaning towards corner balancing, just to realize the full potential of the coilovers. I need all the help I can get moving this tank through the corners.
Hopefully the PSS9s will tighten things up a bit.
It's unbelievable all the variables for track cars (tire pressure, tire compounds, wheel alignement, sway bar adjustments, balancing, shock dampening/stiffness, etc). It's enough to make your head spin. No wonder Ross Brawn is in such demand. Keep the dialog going, I appreciate hearing about other's setups and preferences. Jerry, thanks for taking the time to provide specifics on your alignment.
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It's unbelievable all the variables for track cars (tire pressure, tire compounds, wheel alignement, sway bar adjustments, balancing, shock dampening/stiffness, etc). It's enough to make your head spin. No wonder Ross Brawn is in such demand. Keep the dialog going, I appreciate hearing about other's setups and preferences. Jerry, thanks for taking the time to provide specifics on your alignment.
#18
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I track 3-4 weekends out of the year... Im running settings 1/f & 1/r on my pss9's, though Im happy with pss9's... I feel that if I do more DE's, I fear that I may outgrow them.... maybe I need a track car!
#19
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Thread Starter
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Redridge, Is "1" the firmest setting? If so, how does it feel on the street? I don't mind it being stiff around town (reminds me I'm not in a Camry), but I don't want my fillings to rattle out either. Also, how difficult is it to reach the adjustment dial? Is it too much work to dial it down before a DE and then return it to a softer setting the rest of the time?
#20
Nordschleife Master
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I've been off the boards awhile, unlike Dell, who seems to be here forever. Almost 13,000 posts!!
Anyway, the 996 board has had a subtle change since the 997 board has gone active. More posts on practical and DIY things, centered on performance rather than bling. I think I like it better.
Best initial performance upgrade on the 996 is exactly what you've got, a suspension upgrade. It's practical, usable, noticeable. Better than HP upgrades, which, IMHO, only means bragging rights rather than a true performance upgrade.
Definitely corner balance it since you have the capability for it. Further improves on-track preformance without sacrificing streetability. I have the X73 on mine, and I initially went with the same settings you have: max neg camber and leave everything else standard. I've gone more neutral now on the toe-in. Gives a little tramlining on the street, but significantly improves turn-in. Once you have more seat time and get more comfortable sliding the car in corners, you may want to try that.
You will notice more inside wear, especially on the rear wheels, if you drive a lot on the street. Choice of tires is key to get the appropriate mileage on tires. Avoid assymetric tires, those that have inside and outside preference, since you won't be able to swap them. Or, you can jsut do what I do. That them out to the track more frequently.
With the upgraded suspension, you'll be tempted to get track tires. Don't. At least , not yet. Get used to sliding that car around, oversteering, understeering, rotating. Street tires will allow you to do it at slower therefore safer and more comfortable speeds. Street tires will also communicate better, making all kinds of noises way before they reach their absolute traction limit. Plus, I think it's pretty cool when your car squeels through all the corners.
All always, that's just IMHO.
Anyway, the 996 board has had a subtle change since the 997 board has gone active. More posts on practical and DIY things, centered on performance rather than bling. I think I like it better.
Best initial performance upgrade on the 996 is exactly what you've got, a suspension upgrade. It's practical, usable, noticeable. Better than HP upgrades, which, IMHO, only means bragging rights rather than a true performance upgrade.
Definitely corner balance it since you have the capability for it. Further improves on-track preformance without sacrificing streetability. I have the X73 on mine, and I initially went with the same settings you have: max neg camber and leave everything else standard. I've gone more neutral now on the toe-in. Gives a little tramlining on the street, but significantly improves turn-in. Once you have more seat time and get more comfortable sliding the car in corners, you may want to try that.
You will notice more inside wear, especially on the rear wheels, if you drive a lot on the street. Choice of tires is key to get the appropriate mileage on tires. Avoid assymetric tires, those that have inside and outside preference, since you won't be able to swap them. Or, you can jsut do what I do. That them out to the track more frequently.
With the upgraded suspension, you'll be tempted to get track tires. Don't. At least , not yet. Get used to sliding that car around, oversteering, understeering, rotating. Street tires will allow you to do it at slower therefore safer and more comfortable speeds. Street tires will also communicate better, making all kinds of noises way before they reach their absolute traction limit. Plus, I think it's pretty cool when your car squeels through all the corners.
All always, that's just IMHO.
#21
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Redridge, Is "1" the firmest setting? If so, how does it feel on the street? I don't mind it being stiff around town (reminds me I'm not in a Camry), but I don't want my fillings to rattle out either. Also, how difficult is it to reach the adjustment dial? Is it too much work to dial it down before a DE and then return it to a softer setting the rest of the time?
#23
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depends on the tires, with Pzero I find that I have to go softer (yes 1 is stiffer 9 being the softest). In NJ/NY 1/1 is to harsh, I find on Pzero's, I max it at 3/3 on nice spirited drives. The rears are easy to adjust, lift carpet and its right there. The fronts' you have to go under the car or turn the wheel at full lock and do a reach around...though you cant see the settings this way and have to go by the feel/hear clicks on the adjustments. Its easy to do but removing the rubber cap can be a pain.
Ahh yes, removing and putting back that rubber cap without changing the settings IS a pain!
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A note, if the car has Bose stereo, the bose subwoofer has to be removed, or just slid off slightly, to expose the rear shock mounts/adjustment ****.
#24
Three Wheelin'
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This is probably a simplistic question, but my assumption has always been that lowering a car results in a harsher/firmer ride. Are there exceptions to this?
(I have some long drives over rough roads where a firmer-than-stock suspension would be genuinely uncomfortable & tiring over the course of the trip.)
(I have some long drives over rough roads where a firmer-than-stock suspension would be genuinely uncomfortable & tiring over the course of the trip.)
#25
Nordschleife Master
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And you would be correct that is a simplistic question. There is much more to "harshness" of ride as that is a subjective statement. In a nutshell does ride height contribute? Absolutely it can. But is it ride height that creates it? No.
A few of the more deciding factors to think about:
Tires
Springs
Shocks (compression/rebound)
A few of the more deciding factors to think about:
Tires
Springs
Shocks (compression/rebound)