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Old 11-19-2007, 06:01 PM
  #16  
wwboater
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Originally Posted by 1999Porsche911
For the price you paid for the MAF, you could have purchased a scanner or scanning software for your PC. Why diagnose blind when there are the tools available for you to see?
Good question. Which one do you guys recommend?
Old 11-19-2007, 07:25 PM
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wross996tt
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Ummm...how did you get the codes if you don't have a scanner (first post)?

Durametric is best for Porsche.
Old 11-20-2007, 04:22 PM
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Tippy
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Originally Posted by 1999Porsche911
If you have a scanner, take a look at your MAF readings at idle. That will tell you if it is bad or not.

From what I was told, a scanner or diagnostic machine can not actually pinpoint a problem component, only tell what is out of range possibly indicating the fault.
Old 11-20-2007, 04:27 PM
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1999Porsche911
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Originally Posted by Tippy
From what I was told, a scanner or diagnostic machine can not actually pinpoint a problem component, only tell what is out of range possibly indicating the fault.
You have been told wrong. Voltage and voltage range along with temperature reading and calculated load is all you need to know if it is working. Nothing mystical about the sensor.
Old 11-20-2007, 04:30 PM
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heelix
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You might try cleaning the MAF first. Here is what I had when I sorted mine.

http://heelix.multiply.com/journal/i...is_on_update_1

http://heelix.multiply.com/journal/i...ack_of_the_MAF

http://heelix.multiply.com/journal/i...the_MAF_sensor...
Old 11-20-2007, 04:32 PM
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Tippy
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Originally Posted by 1999Porsche911
You have been told wrong. Voltage and voltage range along with temperature reading and calculated load is all you need to know if it is working. Nothing mystical about the sensor.
I have the print out of mine (from the Porsche diagnostic thingy that hangs from the steering wheel) before replacing the 02 sensor left bank ahead of cat and after. What are the parameters for the MAF?

I would like to know before I install the new MAF and waste my money.
Old 11-20-2007, 07:36 PM
  #22  
Mother
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Originally Posted by Tippy
From what I was told, a scanner or diagnostic machine can not actually pinpoint a problem component, only tell what is out of range possibly indicating the fault.
Tippy I just finished using the Durametric had some fault codes which it does narrow down your troubleshooting time, I had on o2 sensor fail which showed an almost infinite resistance and the other was my MAF voltage went flat at .97V at any throttle setting, so changed it out. It is a must have for me.
Old 11-20-2007, 11:47 PM
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wwboater
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OK It turns out that the CEL came on because of a leak in the brake booster hose. That part is not in the US and it has to be ordered from Germany. Oh well a week or so and we will see if that was the problem.

If any one wants to buy a MAF let me know.....
Old 01-10-2012, 09:48 PM
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bar10dah
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Originally Posted by 1999Porsche911
If you have a scanner, take a look at your MAF readings at idle. That will tell you if it is bad or not.
What should a good MAF read?
Old 01-10-2012, 10:13 PM
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logray
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Everything you need to know about the MAF.

http://sites.google.com/site/mikefoc...sairflowsensor
Old 01-10-2012, 11:45 PM
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bar10dah
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Thanks, I did use that site when I ordered/replaced my MAF. Great information!

This is what that site says:
The hot film mass air flow sensor is fitted in the air cleaner housing at the outlet of the air cleaner. The operating voltage range is 9 -7 Volt, and the output voltage of the mass air flow sensor (voltage to the DME control module) lies between O and 5 Volt.
So is the hot film MAF and the MAF two separate devices? Or is the component called the hot film mass air flow sensor and mass air flow sensor later used in the paragraph means those two terms are interchangeable?

Durametric shows two readable values, air mass and hot film MAF. My air mass at idle is ~13.25 kg/h and my hot film MAF at idle is ~1.33 V. Not sure how to apply the kg/h, but my voltage being 1.33 V should relate to what, the 9-7 V range of the operating voltage or the 0-5 V range of the output sensor?
Old 03-04-2017, 06:20 PM
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Hurdigurdiman
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Originally Posted by wwboater
OK It turns out that the CEL came on because of a leak in the brake booster hose. That part is not in the US and it has to be ordered from Germany. Oh well a week or so and we will see if that was the problem.

If any one wants to buy a MAF let me know.....
get a tube in one ear and go along the brake booster cable with the other end of the tube and pin point the leak. Then tape around it at that point until your new part arrives from Germany. At least you will know in advance if you wasted your money sending off for as part that you may not have needed. Good luck.
Old 03-04-2017, 06:27 PM
  #28  
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dude you replied to a post from 2007.......i think it is probably fixed by now.....just a guess though
Old 03-05-2017, 10:35 AM
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Default My guess...

Originally Posted by extanker
dude you replied to a post from 2007.......i think it is probably fixed by now.....just a guess though
hah! My guess is that the CEL never got fixed, or the fix did not last over 2 to 3 months...., but a few thousand $$ were spent b4 giving up.

I'd like to see a follow up also, if for no other reason than to reverse my pessimism.



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