Michelin PS2.....less than 6K miles....belt is exposed on the inside rear tire...
#17
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I don't think you want O degrees of camber...I believe stock is around 1 degree of neg camber--I could be wrong. I'm running about 1.5 neg on the rears with my H&R coilovers, before I was at around 2.5 and the inside edge of my L rear tire was destroyed.
Good luck.
Good luck.
#18
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negative camber = enthusiast
ZERO camber = poser
Getting more than 15,000 miles out of your back tires = poser (or plastic tires)
There sure are alot of Porsche owners who apparently drive for the "bling" effect than for the handling and safety of the car.
ZERO camber = poser
Getting more than 15,000 miles out of your back tires = poser (or plastic tires)
There sure are alot of Porsche owners who apparently drive for the "bling" effect than for the handling and safety of the car.
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And why would you suggest that "mad" negative camber is automatically safer or provides for better handling? There IS such a thing as too much negative camber.
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So, are we talking about a rear engined Porsche or a Honda? Are you suggesting that the rear engined Porsche is safer an will handle better with less camber or even ZERO camber?
And why would you suggest that "mad" negative camber is automatically safer or provides for better handling? There IS such a thing as too much negative camber.
And why would you suggest that "mad" negative camber is automatically safer or provides for better handling? There IS such a thing as too much negative camber.
I think he is saying that many slammed imports are running negative camber, but have no idea what their doing--it's simply a by-product of improperly set-up suspensions. Hence, negative camber could still = poser.
Either way, I believe that we all agree that zero camber is not the way to go on a 911.
#22
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OK....tons of stuff here...thanks all. I see a fight brewing here too....this should be fun.
anyhow, is there a way for me to tell what the camber is before I align? If stock is 1.5, then that's what I'll adjust to. I love the cornering, but don't want to sacrifice tires so fast. Can't believe I have to put new rubber on so cuickly (no cue button).
Keep'em coming.
J
anyhow, is there a way for me to tell what the camber is before I align? If stock is 1.5, then that's what I'll adjust to. I love the cornering, but don't want to sacrifice tires so fast. Can't believe I have to put new rubber on so cuickly (no cue button).
Keep'em coming.
J
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OK....tons of stuff here...thanks all. I see a fight brewing here too....this should be fun.
anyhow, is there a way for me to tell what the camber is before I align? If stock is 1.5, then that's what I'll adjust to. I love the cornering, but don't want to sacrifice tires so fast. Can't believe I have to put new rubber on so cuickly (no cue button).
Keep'em coming.
J
anyhow, is there a way for me to tell what the camber is before I align? If stock is 1.5, then that's what I'll adjust to. I love the cornering, but don't want to sacrifice tires so fast. Can't believe I have to put new rubber on so cuickly (no cue button).
Keep'em coming.
J
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dont mean to interrupt but...if a car ISNT being tracked and is a daily driver of 15-17000 miles per year, whats the LEAST aggresive you would suggest setting these figures to conserve some on tire wear ?
#25
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You can safely reduce rear camber to -0.8 degrees and have a safe car for street and highway driving. This will also increase the life of your rear tires.
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I don't think you can reduce camber to zero( I could be wrong ) on 996. Never done alignment on one.
But I also have BMW E39 with sport package and had major problem with rear tire wear so when I did alignment I went to most positive I could. Factory spec was -2.17 and now is -1.26 range no longer I have tire wear problem. My Michelines still look like new after 10k on them. Car handles just fine. Trust me my wife never notice the difference. And she loves the fact that we don't buy tires for it every 15k.
Like others said ask for readings before and after. Very important so you know they did something.
And don't worry if numbers are a little off from side to side for example my right side is -1.23 and left is
-1.26 on camber. You will never feel a difference nor the tires. Of course you want to get the numbers as close as you can but sometimes it is impossible.
But I also have BMW E39 with sport package and had major problem with rear tire wear so when I did alignment I went to most positive I could. Factory spec was -2.17 and now is -1.26 range no longer I have tire wear problem. My Michelines still look like new after 10k on them. Car handles just fine. Trust me my wife never notice the difference. And she loves the fact that we don't buy tires for it every 15k.
Like others said ask for readings before and after. Very important so you know they did something.
And don't worry if numbers are a little off from side to side for example my right side is -1.23 and left is
-1.26 on camber. You will never feel a difference nor the tires. Of course you want to get the numbers as close as you can but sometimes it is impossible.
#28
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I just had that problem, driver's side was a little worse.
It WAS the camber. That plus previous owner musta pulled the car using the right suspension, bending the driver's side control arm (idiot!). That added $300 to my bill.
It WAS the camber. That plus previous owner musta pulled the car using the right suspension, bending the driver's side control arm (idiot!). That added $300 to my bill.
#30
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You certainly don't want 0 camber in the back of your 996. I would be very curious to find out what your alignment settings end up being? I am willing to guess that aggressive toe in on that wheel is the cause and not too much negative camber. FWIW: you would be able to "see" too much negative camber.