BillJ

Well I do not go all the way into the city and I leave pretty early to beat the main rush hour. It is not so bad. RDU - Raleigh/Durham? I suppose VIR is a nice hunting ground for that GT3. IU have been going there since 2000 when they re-opened. Fantastic track.

Smack - thanks for the additional breakdown! I do have a lift so that should make things a touch easier? I have plenty of hose (honest i swear)

LVDell

Yup, I am pretty much a VIR *****. Can't get enough of that place. Especially in the 3.

By the way, the clutch bleed is a serious PITA!!! Just be ready to have all the fluid pass through and be a total waste if you don't get the valve shut fast enough! Ask me how I know

BillJ

Oh boy. Well I will let everyone know how it goes. Will get the fluid in the next couple days then maybe do it later this week or the weekend. I like all my fluids fresh.

smackboy1

Hi Dell. I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks that. I think I shaved 2 knuckles loosening the clutch valve. I was wondering about the correct clutch bleeding procedure. Using a power bleeder, are you supposed to open the clutch bleed valve once at the beginning and keep it open while you flush out the bubbles and actuate the pedal 10-15 times and wait 90 seconds, all the while draining fluid, until you are done then close the valve once at the end? That's the way I understood Loren's directions, but it seems to waste a lot of fluid.

BillJ

I guess I do have one other question as well... Should I activate ABS just prior to doing the flush to try and get the reserved fuild out of that portion of the system? I think that this would be prudent as the circuit will remain closed until needed. I think that is what I will do so maybe just call this a public musing as opposed to a question

LVDell

You would need a PST2 or PIWIS to do the ABS system.

I use a Motive Power Bleeder to do the entire bleed. If you follow the DIY from the link I posted it should be quite helpful.

smackboy1

Huh? ABS reserve fluid? What's that all about? I just changed from OEM to ATE Super Blue. I didn't activate no stinkin' ABS, is that going to affect anything? Damn I'm clueless.

KJinDC

Sounds like Bill J got himself a 996 to me...
You can't go wrong with ATE or Motul. SRF is overkill, but I swear by that stuff and don't use anything else in the racecar.

You coming to VIR with PCA in Sept or Audi Nov? I guarantee you'll have more fun than you did in the A6. ;-)

-KJ

BillJ

As I understand it...there is fluid in the ABS system that is only "accessed" when ABS is activated. I believe Dell is saying that there is a tool that will pump the fluid for just the purpose of changing all the fluid in that system. Thats cool but for the DIY guy I think the method described in the link is more than adequate. The percentage of fluid that would not be changed is marginal. Don't sweat it.

BillJ

Indeed! Not sure on track events this year but anything is possible. September is almost certainly a no but November may be do-able. I cannot wait to get familiar with this car. It is quite capable and much different than the "raw" porsche experiences I have had thus far.

BillJ

Want to thank everyone for the information and links to the DIY. Did everything last night and worked out very well. I did end up using ATE fluid as it was available at OG (about 5 minutes from my home) and have always had great luck with it. BTW all bleed screws on my 2002 were 11mm, not a mix of 11 and 9 as the instructions indicated were needed. In any event it was very needed as some of the calipers released some nasty particulates and the color of the fluid was nowhere close to the clear light yellow of the new ATE gold.

TheSpeedDemon

So I found the service receipt when the previous owner had the 30K service done and they flushed the brake system then (the car has 34K on it now).

The line for the parts used for this flush says:

000-043-203-66 ORMD-BRAKE FLUID

So what does that mean I have in the system?

Plus what is the correct size of the allen wrnech needed to remove the caliper bolts?

Thanks in advance

BillJ

Why would you need to remove the calipers? Are you replacing the lines as well? If all you are doing is a fluid flush the system stays in place. If the dealership did the flush they used DOT4 standard fluid.

TheSpeedDemon

Yes I am replacing the lines and doing a clean-up of the area, so I want to remove what I can.

I already picked-up the fluid from the dealership after I discussed it with them.

Now I need to know what size allen wrench I need to remove the caliper bolts and the torque for them when I re-install them.

BillJ

Ah. Ok well your best bet is to get a set of allen sockets in the larger range. They are really handy for all sorts of projects and allow you to use your torque wrench. The DIY below should be ample to get you through that task in general. Not sure if the bolt sizes are the same. I have used the quite accurate german measurement of gutentight on those

http://p-car.com/diy/brakepads/