99 996 in AZ, Overheating.....
06-19-2007, 04:02 PM
#16
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Originally Posted by 1999Porsche911
As Doug said, it probably is low coolant in the reseviour. There is a sensor installed in the bottom of the tank that will activate the flashing light when coolant is low. It may take several fill ups of the tank before all air is removed from the system. It is faster if you park the car after a run, nose down and open the bleeder valve.
BTW: Although a coolant change is good for the system, do not expect the engine to run any cooler than it did before simply because you have new antifreeze.
BTW: Although a coolant change is good for the system, do not expect the engine to run any cooler than it did before simply because you have new antifreeze.
06-19-2007, 04:15 PM
#17
Race Car
Originally Posted by michael.s.under
What do you think the problem could be?
Your high coolant temperature is caused by various design flaws with the 996. The 2 biggest flaws include the restriction in the amount of air that can pass over the radiators at slow speeds and the fact that the radiator fan sensors turn on the fans too late and at too high of a temperature. Another contributing factor is the poor quaity of the water pump which causes it to wear quite quickly, thereby reducing the volume of coolant flow at low engine rpms. You'll identify this problem by increasing engine rpms to 1500 and watchiing the coolant temperature drop. The engine was designed to run between 190F - 200F in all conditions.
These temperatures can easily be maintained by doing my radiator fan mod which allows you to run the fans at high speed when needed. At speeds below 60 mph, there is not enough air flow to keep the coolant at the targeted temperature unless the fans are engaged.
06-19-2007, 04:51 PM
#18
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by michael.s.under
I just did a full coolant flush as recommended by a renntech user. The simple method. The car seems to be running cooler, ill know better after work. Now, the high side of the temp guage is flashing red, although im only running at the right edge of the zeron on 180. What does this mean?
06-19-2007, 06:25 PM
#19
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Originally Posted by 1999Porsche911
Your high coolant temperature is caused by various design flaws with the 996. The 2 biggest flaws include the restriction in the amount of air that can pass over the radiators at slow speeds and the fact that the radiator fan sensors turn on the fans too late and at too high of a temperature. Another contributing factor is the poor quaity of the water pump which causes it to wear quite quickly, thereby reducing the volume of coolant flow at low engine rpms. You'll identify this problem by increasing engine rpms to 1500 and watchiing the coolant temperature drop. The engine was designed to run between 190F - 200F in all conditions.
These temperatures can easily be maintained by doing my radiator fan mod which allows you to run the fans at high speed when needed. At speeds below 60 mph, there is not enough air flow to keep the coolant at the targeted temperature unless the fans are engaged.
These temperatures can easily be maintained by doing my radiator fan mod which allows you to run the fans at high speed when needed. At speeds below 60 mph, there is not enough air flow to keep the coolant at the targeted temperature unless the fans are engaged.
06-19-2007, 06:31 PM
#20
Race Car
Originally Posted by michael.s.under
Thanks for the info everyone, specifically where can this fan mod be found and how much did it run you to perform?
Radiator Fan and Engine Compartment Fan Switch Mod
The 3.4 996 runs extremely hot when driving around town in temperatures higher than 75 degrees. This mod is a way to reduce coolant temps back to a safer level, helping to reduce oil temps and improving performance.
The mod consists of installing a switch that will allow you to turn on the high speed radiator fans at any time, while maintaining the automatic operation of the fans. We do the same for the engine compartment fan.
Radiator Fans
Connect a wire to the ground of the 2 high speed fan relays located on the relay carrier located in the driver’s side foot well. The relays are #20 and #22. Feed this wire to where your switch will be located. Connect the wire to one side of the switch. Connect another wire from the other contact on the switch and then connect the other end of this wire to a chassis ground point.
With key on, this switch will now immediately turn on both radiator fans providing maximum cooling. When you turn the key off, the fans will continue to run for about 5 seconds until the relay shuts down. Your fan operation remains normal when the switch is off.
06-19-2007, 06:45 PM
#21
Three Wheelin'
Originally Posted by 1999Porsche911
BTW: Although a coolant change is good for the system, do not expect the engine to run any cooler than it did before simply because you have new antifreeze.
06-19-2007, 10:11 PM
#22
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Thanks again, the car went up to about 220-230 today and I sh!$ my pants. If there are issues above 75 degrees, 108 didnt look very good. Looks like my next mod. Did you use a generic switch or a porsche switch? Any pics of the process or are they in the thread?
06-19-2007, 10:37 PM
#23
Race Car
Originally Posted by michael.s.under
Thanks again, the car went up to about 220-230 today and I sh!$ my pants. If there are issues above 75 degrees, 108 didnt look very good. Looks like my next mod. Did you use a generic switch or a porsche switch? Any pics of the process or are they in the thread?
06-20-2007, 01:32 AM
#24
Nordschleife Master
Michael,
I really do suggest getting the issue fixed before these high temps you're experiencing kills your motor. 220-230 is really high, high enough that personally, I'd would not want to take it out until it's under control.
Clean out the radiators and check the fluid levels, do what you can on your own, after that let some one else look at it before we see a new post from you about where the best engine rebuilders are in Phoenix.
Personally, I was worried about the high temps in AZ on my car and ended up moving to a place with a lower average temp....strictly for the car....
I really do suggest getting the issue fixed before these high temps you're experiencing kills your motor. 220-230 is really high, high enough that personally, I'd would not want to take it out until it's under control.
Clean out the radiators and check the fluid levels, do what you can on your own, after that let some one else look at it before we see a new post from you about where the best engine rebuilders are in Phoenix.
Personally, I was worried about the high temps in AZ on my car and ended up moving to a place with a lower average temp....strictly for the car....
06-20-2007, 12:46 PM
#25
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by Eharrison
Clean out the radiators and check the fluid levels, do what you can on your own, after that let some one else look at it before we see a new post from you about where the best engine rebuilders are in Phoenix.
Originally Posted by Eharrison
Personally, I was worried about the high temps in AZ on my car and ended up moving to a place with a lower average temp....strictly for the car....
06-21-2007, 01:27 AM
#27
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Thats a good question. I was under the impression that you run two wires, one from the first relay and one from the second to a single side of the switch. Then you ground the other side of the switch, si or no?
06-21-2007, 07:58 AM
#28
Race Car
Originally Posted by salat6
chicago land could you please help me with this mod im in libertyville 847 875 0435 bob do you need 2 switches? where did you ground? can i call you? thanx
