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Lowering 2.5-3 inches??

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Old 04-09-2007, 07:10 PM
  #31  
Zookie
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Originally Posted by michael.s.under
Why would you want it that low then, Its a race car, not a lowrider? You might as well put hydraulics and wire wheels on it.
I think its everyones Personal Preferance....
Old 04-10-2007, 04:20 AM
  #32  
rountreed
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When will we see the hydraulics that allow the car to bounce up and down? Sorry you are correct everyone has there own taste but usually people with that taste do not buy a Porsche so I do not expect to see much support from this site.
Old 04-10-2007, 07:27 AM
  #33  
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Just to be clear, I really am not one for the low rider/pimp mobile look. However, I do love the look of the Cup cars and would like to recreate that for the road, if at all feasible. That is the main driver in wanting to lower the car more than normal. I guess the correct questions should have been: “How much lower than RoW stock suspension are the cup cars?”
Old 04-10-2007, 08:44 AM
  #34  
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Hmmm now that is a good question and my guess is about 1.5-2 inches lower than ROW M0030, note just using my eyeball. The issue then will be these cars ride low on smooth tracks and would never be driven in/ out of a driveway. I really do not think you would want to go beyond 2 inches lower than stock or 1 inch lower than ROW M0030 for fear of your body parts, but again to each there own and by the way the bouncing car thing was a joke in case you did not take it that way. Best of luck with whatever you decide but for me the ROW M0030 is about perfect and handles great on the Autobahn where I had my car up over 165MPH yesterday down A62.
Old 04-10-2007, 09:56 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Diablo99
Gents, My brother is just about to purchase a 99 C2 narrow bodied car, and are already planning a programme of modifications. He wants to go for 19" Desin Sport wheels (997) and really drop the car. The car will be used on the road only. He researched lots of threads, but none of them deal with lowering the car by this amount. What are his options? Many thanks in advance.
If you're really serious in lowering it that much for street use, be cautious of the engine bottom ground clearance. Specially when driving over small obstructions or debri.

There has been a lot of cracked/damaged engine oil casings reported, specially in PCA Tech Sec. Just backing up alone, the engine sticks out first before the tires, so it will hit a curb first before your tires would.


Good luck.

Last edited by Carrera Mike; 04-11-2007 at 11:31 AM.
Old 04-10-2007, 06:51 PM
  #36  
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i say lower it just to the tires... anything beyond that will give you trouble..... it's not worth it,,,,,
Old 04-11-2007, 11:24 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by michael.s.under
Why would you want it that low then, Its a race car, not a lowrider? You might as well put hydraulics and wire wheels on it.
You've got something against lowriders? All I'm missing are the dingle ***** in the back window.
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Old 04-11-2007, 03:31 PM
  #38  
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Damn, Jim B...who's the owner of that Flamed 996!!!??? He needs to be executed!
Old 04-11-2007, 03:35 PM
  #39  
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i don't know... i LIKE it.........
Old 04-11-2007, 03:45 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by CosmosC4S
Damn, Jim B...who's the owner of that Flamed 996!!!??? He needs to be executed!
Ahh...that would be me.
Old 04-11-2007, 03:58 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Carrera Mike
If you're really serious in lowering it that much for street use, be cautious of the engine bottom ground clearance. Specially when driving over small obstructions or debri.

There has been a lot of cracked/damaged engine oil casings reported, specially in PCA Tech Sec. Just backing up alone, the engine sticks out first before the tires, so it will hit a curb first before your tires would.


Good luck.

I agree, I have a protective plate in the back under the engine... I hit quite a few times... Also I'm grating the front bumper a lot in-out of driveway and especially in the canyons on sharp hairpin downhill turns, even though I do have a steel protective plate under the bumper, but it doesn't reach all the way to the corners... so... cheesegrater!

I'm having fun.
Old 04-11-2007, 04:25 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by CosmosC4S
Damn, Jim B...who's the owner of that Flamed 996!!!??? He needs to be executed!
that's his cup car.
Old 04-11-2007, 05:12 PM
  #43  
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your cup car is tight..... i love the looks of it... what are the specs on it?
Old 04-11-2007, 05:25 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by JimB
Ahh...that would be me.
NO way! You're not kidding, are you?

I like the car, it's very nice....it's the flames that's a turn off.
Old 04-11-2007, 05:44 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by CosmosC4S
NO way! You're not kidding, are you?

I like the car, it's very nice....it's the flames that's a turn off.
Cosmos, I've been racing a black 996 with simple grey graphics for four years. I wanted my cup car to stand out a bit on the track. The 996 cup looks good with big swooshes and swoops but every version of those has already been done so I thought I would do something a little different. I had help from my GF who did the graphic design for a couple of CART cars and a friend that restores and builds rods and other customs. The goal was to look a little wild but with very clean lines and colors. Remember with a race car it’s how it looks from 100 yards away at 140 mph. And in your mirror.

Smile, the cup cars are pretty fun. A very different experience than driving a regular 996. Mine is a 2005. It has something over 400 hp and a pretty close ratio 6 speed. 1st is much higher than our street cars and 6th is quite a bit lower. It keeps you pretty busy. The car revs up and down so fast I had to adjust my heel and toe. At first the revs were going up and back down before I let the clutch out. I would guess you shift twice as much as in a regular 996. Maybe more. My times at Sebring were 11 seconds a lap faster than my pretty trick 996.

Other stuff:
Weight 2550 lbs.
C4 Chassis
Factory cage
Huge brakes
Air jacks
Center lock wheels
Fire system
Dry sump 3.6L
Sachs two way adjustable dampers
Carbon fiber doors
Lexan windows
Etc. etc.


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