Warning Rennlisters and users
01-22-2007, 12:42 AM
#31
Originally Posted by Tippy
Do not buy these wheels for your Porsche. I got these off E-bay. I was so totally pi$$ed off after I started to bolt these on and finding one thing after another wrong. First off and the most major to me, the hub I.D. is NOT hubcentric (it comes with a PLASTIC spacer, WTF). Second, the cone angle for the lug bolts is wrong, only placing a load on the outer 20% of the cone of the wheel. Third, the offset is about an INCH too wide, the outer tires rub the fenders. Fourth, the factory lug bolts are too short. Fifth, the center cap has a hole in it allowing water to get trapped in the hub. Sixth, one wheel took about a third world country of wheel weights to balance. Seventh, the holes where you bolt the center cap on had paint coating the threads and I had to scrape out the holes to get the tiny allen bolts started. I am sure I am forgetting other things.
1. Many aftermarket wheels are not hubcentric and require rings. This is not unusual, especially when looking at lower cost wheels, as these are. The CCW 3-piece classic wheels I have for racing wheels are drilled to match the 996 hub.
I have used non-hubcentric wheels with hub rings on multiple wheels with multiple cars and had no problems. I don't use the plastic ones. I use the aluminum ones with lock wires to hold them in the wheels. This is not a point to argue.
2. With aftermarket wheels, they will vary the angle for the holes. Normally they will come with an additional set of lug nuts (Tirerack for one does this automatically), or they will make recommendations. Again, not really a point to argue with AFTERMARKET wheels.
3. The offset in the rear is obviously wrong. Did you check the offsets BEFORE you bought them? If you didn't, it is your own fault. They are obviously made for a Turbo/C4S or a 993; probably with a 50 mm offset. The offset should be 65-75mm for the rear of a narrow body 996.
4. The weight issue could be the tire or the wheel. Did you take and swap tires between wheels? Did you rotate the tire on the wheel and see if the weight followed the clocking of the tire or the wheel?
The moral of this story is:
1. Don't buy cheap wheels for an expensive car.
2. Make sure what you are buying iis what you intended to buy.
01-22-2007, 08:48 AM
#32
Nordschleife Master
Originally Posted by 02 Carrera
The moral of this story is:
1. Don't buy cheap wheels for an expensive car.
2. Make sure what you are buying iis what you intended to buy.
1. Don't buy cheap wheels for an expensive car.
2. Make sure what you are buying iis what you intended to buy.
01-22-2007, 09:31 AM
#33
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Boston, MA
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Originally Posted by 02 Carrera
A few comments:01:
The moral of this story is:
1. Don't buy cheap wheels for an expensive car.
The moral of this story is:
1. Don't buy cheap wheels for an expensive car.
Until I have the free cash to buy the OEM 18" Carrera five-spokes I want, I'll keep my stock 17" wheels. I've been thinking about cheap copies of the five-spoke, but I haven't pulled the trigger because it doesn't feel right. Now I know why.
01-22-2007, 10:54 AM
#34
Race Car
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by 02 Carrera
A few comments:
1. Many aftermarket wheels are not hubcentric and require rings. This is not unusual, especially when looking at lower cost wheels, as these are. The CCW 3-piece classic wheels I have for racing wheels are drilled to match the 996 hub.
I have used non-hubcentric wheels with hub rings on multiple wheels with multiple cars and had no problems. I don't use the plastic ones. I use the aluminum ones with lock wires to hold them in the wheels. This is not a point to argue.
2. With aftermarket wheels, they will vary the angle for the holes. Normally they will come with an additional set of lug nuts (Tirerack for one does this automatically), or they will make recommendations. Again, not really a point to argue with AFTERMARKET wheels.
3. The offset in the rear is obviously wrong. Did you check the offsets BEFORE you bought them? If you didn't, it is your own fault. They are obviously made for a Turbo/C4S or a 993; probably with a 50 mm offset. The offset should be 65-75mm for the rear of a narrow body 996.
4. The weight issue could be the tire or the wheel. Did you take and swap tires between wheels? Did you rotate the tire on the wheel and see if the weight followed the clocking of the tire or the wheel?
The moral of this story is:
1. Don't buy cheap wheels for an expensive car.
2. Make sure what you are buying iis what you intended to buy.
1. Many aftermarket wheels are not hubcentric and require rings. This is not unusual, especially when looking at lower cost wheels, as these are. The CCW 3-piece classic wheels I have for racing wheels are drilled to match the 996 hub.
I have used non-hubcentric wheels with hub rings on multiple wheels with multiple cars and had no problems. I don't use the plastic ones. I use the aluminum ones with lock wires to hold them in the wheels. This is not a point to argue.
2. With aftermarket wheels, they will vary the angle for the holes. Normally they will come with an additional set of lug nuts (Tirerack for one does this automatically), or they will make recommendations. Again, not really a point to argue with AFTERMARKET wheels.
3. The offset in the rear is obviously wrong. Did you check the offsets BEFORE you bought them? If you didn't, it is your own fault. They are obviously made for a Turbo/C4S or a 993; probably with a 50 mm offset. The offset should be 65-75mm for the rear of a narrow body 996.
4. The weight issue could be the tire or the wheel. Did you take and swap tires between wheels? Did you rotate the tire on the wheel and see if the weight followed the clocking of the tire or the wheel?
The moral of this story is:
1. Don't buy cheap wheels for an expensive car.
2. Make sure what you are buying iis what you intended to buy.
