Hi.

How much to change on the OEM wheels v getting separate wheels?

Should I go with 10" rears, and if so, what do people do for spacers?


TIA

JB

 

I have a C4S and use 10" in the back with 265/35 18" (narrower is better in snow as you get more pressure per square inch). H&R spacers to fill in the fenders (otherwise looks silly).

Tires are Goodyear Ultra Grip GW-3.

Much easier to change wheels and install and remove tires. Also, given size, I am concerned that frequest install/removal might affect sidewall.

 

I have the Pirelli snowsports on a separate set of rims as well. The winter tires are much quieter than the summer ones. That may be due to running the summer ones in the colder weather though.

 

My C4 stays in the nice warm and cozy garage throughout most of the winter. My wintertime daily driver is a 2001 AWD RX300 with a 1994 AWD Ford Aerostar as a backup if I wish to intentionally go to an area of adverse roadbed conditions, skiing, etc.

Prior to the RX I had two Jeeps, both Cherokee Limiteds, going back to '84.

I have always run on nice quiet and comfortable summer tires all year 'round for all of these, Bridgestone Turanzas currently on the RX. Summer tires have more tread surface area for roadbed contact when it is really slippery, black ice, etc. Highly "sipped" or "knobby" winter tires are really only good if the surface is somewhat "loose" where the sipes have something to sink into for grip.

Having lived in MT in a period wherein RWD was IT I learned to keep tire chains on board during the winter months and not be at all hesitent about getting them installed. I have four tire chains in the RX at the moment and made use of all four just about three weeks ago.

Unless you drive really a lot in true wintertime conditions temporary use of tire chains are a much better value than "specialty" winter tires.

 

I was under the impression that tire compound in the cold was key....now I am confused (and poorer, having just bought winter tires....).

Some around here swear to me to get them. Others day summers are fine. Data is scarce. I need to be able to drive in slush/cold/light snow. They plow around here.

Anyone have the answers....I suspect winter tires are better, but those suggesting such often also sell tires.....they mean well, but does anyone have data?


JB

 

Many years ago it was common knowledge that it was not a good idea to run winter tires throughout the year since the cold weather, soft, rubber formulation resulting in a HIGH wear rate on a high traction surface.

Here in the Seattle area the need for "winter" tires prevails maybe 4 to 7 days throughout the year so "soft" formulated winter tires would be good for maybe one season.

I think, truly, that those softer rubber formulations have been abandoned in order for winter tires to be mileage use competitive with regular tires and for owners to avoid the need for twice a year tire changeovers.

 

Don't know about you guys, but with the 60*-70* weather lately I wish I still had my summer shoes on. The winter shoes just feel less grippy and more squishy on the dry tarmac. Can't wait for the snow and ice to put on the ear muffs, turn on the seat heater, and go cruising with the top down

 

I think Dufs said it well early in this thread but let try this.......imagine a billard ball on concrete..........well that's similer to 'Z' rubber below 40'.......in the wet.

Different wheels for your winters?....of course.......gotta have winters with their own fitment ready to go, before Christmas....can't imagine dismounting-mounting on all cars twice a year.

 

2 reasons that i am considering snows on seperate rims 1) to avoid damage to my summer tires due to the horrible potholes that exist in New England in the winter ( bent several rims on other cars with low profile tires) and 2) P zeros turn to stone when it gets cold.
Ah the joys of winter driving.......

 

17" Pirelli Snowsports for the cold rain and snow in winter, 19" SSR wheels for summer. The winter Pirelli's handle the Vancouver rain (or snow over the past few days) much better than the 30-series summer tires. The softer compound and sipes in the tread blocks stick better.

 

Excluding chains and studs, in terms of tires, the order of performance on snow and ice/sleet is as follows:

Full Snow Tires
Winter Sport
All Season
Summer (Don't even consider it).

The shape of the thread and the compound make the difference. On my M5 which is my daily driver, I went with Dunlop Winter Sport M3's rather than full snow tires. I had Blizzaks snow tires on my previous car but did not like the handling during the 90% of the winter there was no snow on the road.

The Winter Sports perform well in the snow but not as good as full snow tires. I recently drove through about 4" of snow with no drama whatsoever. However, the benefit of the wintersports is they don't have the squirm associated with the large blocks on snow tires. Also, there is less compromise with your handling and turn in. Both winter sports and full snow tires work well at low temperatures.

I found out the hard way that all season tires work acceptably in light snows as long as the temperature is 20 -30 degrees or warmer. Last year, I ran into a situation of 3 to 5 degrees with snow. The all seasons spun in place just like summer tires will. I remember watching a Cayenne Turbo slide sideways last year in the snow on a set of summer tires, and the guy was cursing the Cayenne.

Depending on how much snow you get, I would definitely consider a tire like the Dunlop Winter Sport M3's. I bought a second set of rims for the winter tires and swap them on and off as needed. It only takes about 30 minutes to do it and in this part of the country we can go for weeks between snow events with temps in the 40's and 50's. I just put my winter set on tonight; 60 degrees today, 20 degrees with sleet and snow over the weekend, and single digits early next week. Oh well.

 

Nice write-up and spot on.

The funny thing with SUVs is that they really are no better than any other car unless they have proper 'shoes' on. It's quite remarkable to watch these nuts in performance SUVs thinking that they can negotiate snow and ice-covered roads just because they have all wheel drive. Indeed, I remember last year during the two snowstorms we had in the New York City area and watching literally dozens of cars stuck on the side of the road. My little rear wheel drive 911 with snowshoes drove right on by to their curious glances. (Incidentally, I'm running Goodyear Ultragrips GW3 right now and am very pleased. They are much like the Dunlops that autobonrun mentioned).

 

I got my C2 a month before the first ice/snow storm hit the Seattle area. It was shod with 18" turbo wheels and tires. I only discovered that it had "summer" tires on it when I got completely stuck - the car was going backwards on a slight slope which every other car was having no trouble with at all. I ended up having to abandon it at a garage for FOUR DAYS until the snow had nearly all gone - the gritter trucks don't come up our road.

I learnt my lesson, and now have 17" wheels shod with ContiWinterContacts. The ride is much smoother than the 18" wheels, obviously, but when the current snow storm hit the car was a completely different beast. It now seems to be better than most of the cars on the road - I've seen several in gentle tail sides when I was pulling away without any problem at all. (Of course, it could been that I'm a better driver* than everyone else )

Of course, in normal conditions when being "enthusiastic" the 18s will be better, but for now, the 17s have been a marvellous experience in the cold and the snow in Seattle.

* Apparently a survey discovered that well over 70% of people think they are better drivers than average.