aben8057

You may want to add Redline water wetter

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp

MirageMetallic

Where is this documented? My 996 runs 215 or so (the zero in the 180) regardless of outside conditions. It's ALWAYS that temp. 40F in winter that's my temp. 100F on track at 100+ mph, that's my temp. The only time it's NOT 215F is when the car is warming up. Mine is daily driver and weekend track/ax car.

Your contention is that this is beyond design spec? I find it hard to believe...

1999Porsche911

If your coolant temperature does not drop below 200F while driving steady above 65 mph, in any temperatures, there is something wrong with your cooling system - blockage of radiators, pump, etc.

With proper air flow, your coolant should be able to maintain less than 200F degress regardless of whether you are tracking the car or wether it is 100F or 40F outside. I maintain 194F or less at all times in my 99.

The air flow at speeds below 60 - 70 mph is not adequate due to bumper and radiator design and it is a Porsche design flaw.

nycebo

Where on the zero are you guys talking about? It's my experience that the left portion of the zero is 200 and the right side is 215. Does that sound about right?

MirageMetallic

I ask again, where is this documented?

1999Porsche911

Where is WHAT documented?

MirageMetallic

The temperature! I looked in my manual, and all it says is the needle should be "in the middle" of the gague. The gague goes from 100 to 250, so "in the middle" of that range is 175.

But the gague isn't linear, and has a smaller portion from 100 to 180 than from 180 to 250, so it is very hard to determine from the manual what the "right" temperature is, although "in the middle" is about 190-210 ballpark.

Also, from looking at the gauge again, I could say mine runs around 205 rather than 215 ... but it's all needle widths and guessing given the gague markings...

99firehawk

You will suffer no long term effects at 200 or 220, the car will make less power but componet lonevity will not be noticibilly effected. From a horse power perspective you will make more power at 200 or lower. THeres lots of porsche out there running at normal porsche desgined (flawed design) temperature that have no ill side effects of it

1999Porsche911

You can get the actual coolant temp from a scanner or from the hidden readings using your climate control panel.

RamVA

Your car will suffer no long term damage if run between 175F and 225F. Running at the high end of this range will cause you some power loss, and if this is important more radiator is probably the best solution.

I have only had my temps creep up on a hot (100 degree) track day.

All of that said, if your car is always running at 215 then something is wrong, either with the gauge, the thermostat, or with something more material. In normal driving it should stay under 200, for sure.

1999Porsche911

You cannot keep a 3.4 engine less than 200F in normal driving at speeds less than 60 mph around town without modifications except when ambient temps are around 50F or less. There is not enough air flow and radiator surface to keep the coolant that cool. The engine will also not run any cooler than about 189F once fully warmed up even in the coldest of temperatures. Similar engine temps exists in the 3.6 engine but it is slightly better than the 3.4. On a sunny 85F day sittiing in rush hour traffic, the coolant can reach 230F quite easily and the oil temp follows. Anyone that does not think these kind of temperatures hurt the engine long term is kidding themselves. (especially if you run Mobil Water in your crankcase).

If you want to maintain your engine temp below 194 in ALL conditions, all you have to do is complete my fan mod which allows you to run with the front radiator fans on full when necessary.

99firehawk

tell me, what gets damaged? what failures have you seen on porsches ? HOw many what kind of milage and driving conditions?

10 GT3

If you are just driving around you will never have an issue. If you are planning on doing extended track driving in the peak of summer, then you should upgrade to a 3rd center radiator. The size of the engine makes no difference. Here in Texas, I have seen a couple cars overheat at the track. Once it happens, they never seem to run the same. It happens with Boxsters and 911s.

Since I run at the track regularly, I upgraded to a 3rd center radiator as a preventative measure. It isn't that expensive, a direct bolt-in and the parts are easy to get. It can be installed in a couple of hours with regular hand tools and a pair of jacks or ramps.

Running the track on 100+ degree days, my car never goes over 185 at the track while several of the others without it are running 10-15 degrees hotter. My experiences have convinced 2 of my fellow DE runners to do the upgrade and both are also extremely happy with the results. Running you A/C (which will rob you of some of your power) also helps by circulating in the A/C condensers in front of the radiators help to cool the air before it enters the radiators. My car doesn't go above 180 with the A/C on, but I never run A/C at the track.

The automatics, X51's, Turbo's and GT3's all had center radiators for additional cooling. There are no negatives to doing the upgrade. There is a FAQ on Renntech that lists the parts and gives instructions for the upgrade.

1999Porsche911

Please, do not think that what your gauge says is what the actual temperature of the engine is....it isn't. Your car would not run correctly if it was only 180F. Take a look at the actual temps and don't rely on Porsche' gauges.

jetskied

That is about the most riddiculous remark I have ever heard of. Engine temperature is depends on many factors including air flow through the radiators. You seem to think that only the air flow throught the radiator matters, but you forget about surface area of the radiators, the temperature of the air flowing to the radiators, and the termostat that keeps the coolant flowing. The reason for the 3rd radiator is that it increase surface area to cool the heated coolant, and the fact that the 3rd radiator has better airflow to keep it cool. The reason why it may never run at 180F is that the thermostat is not set that low and not becuase of the air flow. All of the factor listed above does matter, so before giving advice please explain yourself better. You have earlier stated that the air flow and surface area is not enough yet now your saying adding 10X surface area and negative air temps can't cool it to 180F? I do agree that the 996 don't have enough cooling for racing enviroments, but it does well enough for most driving appplications. As far as the Mobil water please explain to me how can a F1 Cosworth engine run with 0-20 oil?