How to improve sound?
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The level adjustment is misleading. It is more a level matching device. In otherwords, you can adjust how much of the sub is introduced to the music. The volume will be linear and the sub will change with that volume. If you turn the **** UP you will get more bass at all volumes, if you turn the **** down, you'll get less bass at all volumes. This add-on is not necessary and there is a level match **** on the body of the unit. On any amplifier it is called the "gain" or "input sensitivity" ****. If your system is set up correctly, you shouldn't need to constantly adjust anything but the volume.
Your second assumption is correct...if you're not rocking out and want to listen to a ball game without the announcers voice rattling your eyeballs, turn the sub's sensitivity down.
Your second assumption is correct...if you're not rocking out and want to listen to a ball game without the announcers voice rattling your eyeballs, turn the sub's sensitivity down.
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You know what they say..."no highs, no lows...must be BOSE"
Seriously though, if you didn't have the BOSE system already installed from the factory, there is no cost effective way or legitimate reason to try and add it. Putting in a well designed aftermarket system is easier and less expensive.
Seriously though, if you didn't have the BOSE system already installed from the factory, there is no cost effective way or legitimate reason to try and add it. Putting in a well designed aftermarket system is easier and less expensive.
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OK...very direct question. If one were to upgrade the sound with out changing the head unit, but just speakers, amps, cross-over and sub...what should one expect to pay?
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Originally Posted by TBH996
You know what they say..."no highs, no lows...must be BOSE"
#21
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Geez! I saw the header for this thread and the first thing I thought was "GHL Exhaust" ![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
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#22
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Originally Posted by kevinrubin
OK...very direct question. If one were to upgrade the sound with out changing the head unit, but just speakers, amps, cross-over and sub...what should one expect to pay?
#23
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Originally Posted by Rob in WA
I spent around $1500, but did the install myself. Figure around $400-$500 for the install and more if you want a custom sub ( I just replaced the stock subs ).
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Originally Posted by Tippy
Nailed it right on the head, they still use paper woofers. But I still think they make incredible sound as long as you do not push them.
Hey, don't generically knock paper cones. The only real drawback is their ability to withstand direct sunlight abuse, however, some of the world's best sub manufacturers (home or car) use paper pulp cones treated with various coatings...FOCAL - prime example
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Originally Posted by kevinrubin
OK...very direct question. If one were to upgrade the sound with out changing the head unit, but just speakers, amps, cross-over and sub...what should one expect to pay?
#26
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Originally Posted by TBH996
$1500 is a good round number to budget. This should get you decent front/rear speakers, sub and multi channel amp w/ install and basic cables. Just make sure you bring it to a shop that knows how to take care of P cars. Like many european cars, the interiors were not designed to be taken apart after leaving the factory so finding a knowledgable installer is critical to insure that your car isn't put back together with extra parts left over or worse - creaks and rattles!
What to do...what to do...
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#27
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Originally Posted by TBH996
Hey, don't generically knock paper cones. The only real drawback is their ability to withstand direct sunlight abuse, however, some of the world's best sub manufacturers (home or car) use paper pulp cones treated with various coatings...FOCAL - prime example
I have had several brochures of speakers that are high end that cost more than replacing our motors and they blast manufacturers of paper cones.
Impregnated paper cant hold up to cone distortion like kevlar, carbon-fiber, polypropylene, polymers, and such.
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#28
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Tippy, I spent the last 18 years in the audio biz. Paper cones, musically speaking, are superb sounding. From a physical abuse viewpoint, there are better materials out there, but in the end a paper cone tends to be more efficient and offer less musical coloration than other common materials (unless you're talking exotic materials - ceramic composites, FOCAL's W cone, B&W's Rohacell) . Look at the prosound industry and you'll see a lot of paper cones.
I'm not advocating them, i'm just saying don't blindly discredit their performance. On a related note, in the harsh automotive environment (heat, cold, UV, etc), there are other materials that will outlast paper - poly, aluminum, kevlar...; but they are musically inferior.
If you look at the chart below, you'll see that paper is more rigid than poly, aluminum, or woven fiber cones (BTW - this is from FOCAL's website). Rigidity is a VERY important part of what makes a woofer "woof".
Sorry about being OT, just wanted you to know "the rest of the story"
I'm not advocating them, i'm just saying don't blindly discredit their performance. On a related note, in the harsh automotive environment (heat, cold, UV, etc), there are other materials that will outlast paper - poly, aluminum, kevlar...; but they are musically inferior.
If you look at the chart below, you'll see that paper is more rigid than poly, aluminum, or woven fiber cones (BTW - this is from FOCAL's website). Rigidity is a VERY important part of what makes a woofer "woof".
Sorry about being OT, just wanted you to know "the rest of the story"
#29
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Originally Posted by Tippy
I cant think of one high-end speaker company who uses paper, that is why Bose is so disrespected.
Regarding paper, I disagree. There are a number of manufacturers who use paper of more commonly some type of impregnated paper to deliver great sound. JBL and Klipsch come to mind for using paper on their highest-end products (and strangely enough, polypropylene and such in their low end models).
Ultimately it is not the material that is most important, rather how well the characteristics of the material are properly utiliized to deliver the product.
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Originally Posted by rroobbcc
Ultimately it is not the material that is most important, rather how well the characteristics of the material are properly utiliized to deliver the product.