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Old 09-22-2006, 02:58 AM
  #31  
Chuck Jones
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"Bottom line is, use what you like, as you are probably more difficult to please than your motor."

That's the best explanation I've heard throughout this entire discussion thread....except for the popcorn suggestion.
Old 09-22-2006, 07:39 AM
  #32  
gota911
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... and all this time I thought oil was supposed to reduce friction!
Old 09-22-2006, 10:38 AM
  #33  
Russ Murphy
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Originally Posted by gota911
... and all this time I thought oil was supposed to reduce friction!
Old 09-22-2006, 11:10 AM
  #34  
bgiere
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I am currently running 75w90 gear oil in my engine. It took me a while to get it started. My thoughts are that with the thicker oil the engine should produce zero wear and i will test that with a used oil analysis like I always do. My strategy is to never shut off the engine, that way I will avoid any start up wear whcih may be present with the heavier oil. Also, never shutting off the engine will save on battery and starter wear. With the engine always running i will not have to worry about seasonal changes either. I'll post my UOA as soon as I get 100 hours on the ngine. Or I run out of gas.
Old 09-22-2006, 05:34 PM
  #35  
Russ Murphy
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I like the way you think.
Old 09-23-2006, 12:02 AM
  #36  
bgiere
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I ain't gonna be fooled by marketing hype and evil engineers....
Old 09-23-2006, 06:44 AM
  #37  
AlexT
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1. My Manual says "Use only engine oils labelled as API SH or SJ, or ILSAC GF 1 and viscosity grades of SAE 10 W-40 or higher."

2. My M5 requires 10w60 at all times or voids warranty.

3. Racers use low viscosity for qualifying and high viscosity for endurance.

Need I say more? 15w50 is it for me.



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