To replace the RMS or not? That is the question!
08-29-2006, 09:37 PM
#16
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More fuel to the fire
Just to make this more complicated. :-)
The car is CPO covered until June '07. Why am I replacing the clutch? When I bought it, the pedal was on the high side but solid on the uptake. I've have two dealers give me their opinion on the clutch. One said it was ok, but recently when I had my ignition switch assembly replaced (that's another story) the service adviser noted that the pedal was high and recommended replacement.
I called around for estimates with the following results:
F & S, Springfield, MA ~ $1700.
Inskip, RI ~ $2100
Natick European Engineering, Natick, MA ~ $1500.
Natick has a really good rep for Porsche work but isn't a dealer, but I have more confidence in their ability to do this job than any dealer.
If the work is done by Natick, then the following applies:
If the seal is not replaced and it goes bad before June '07. It's warranty time.
If it's replaced and goes bad before June '07, is it covered under factory warranty? Probably not.
I think one of the responses gives me the best plan of attack. Seeing how the clutch is not "broken" and I'm not one to wear out a clutch with driving antics, then I think I'll stretch it until it's 'broken' or past the June '07 date. That way if the RMS/IMS crap out in the mean time, I can get the new clutch for the cost of parts/labor when it's down for the RMS replacement.
BTW, someone mentioned coil replacement... I was going to change plugs and coils while the engine was out. I AM a believer in preventative maintenance on such items when they have a rep for failing. In addition, I was thinking of doing the hoses and belt too.
The car is CPO covered until June '07. Why am I replacing the clutch? When I bought it, the pedal was on the high side but solid on the uptake. I've have two dealers give me their opinion on the clutch. One said it was ok, but recently when I had my ignition switch assembly replaced (that's another story) the service adviser noted that the pedal was high and recommended replacement.
I called around for estimates with the following results:
F & S, Springfield, MA ~ $1700.
Inskip, RI ~ $2100
Natick European Engineering, Natick, MA ~ $1500.
Natick has a really good rep for Porsche work but isn't a dealer, but I have more confidence in their ability to do this job than any dealer.
If the work is done by Natick, then the following applies:
If the seal is not replaced and it goes bad before June '07. It's warranty time.
If it's replaced and goes bad before June '07, is it covered under factory warranty? Probably not.
I think one of the responses gives me the best plan of attack. Seeing how the clutch is not "broken" and I'm not one to wear out a clutch with driving antics, then I think I'll stretch it until it's 'broken' or past the June '07 date. That way if the RMS/IMS crap out in the mean time, I can get the new clutch for the cost of parts/labor when it's down for the RMS replacement.
BTW, someone mentioned coil replacement... I was going to change plugs and coils while the engine was out. I AM a believer in preventative maintenance on such items when they have a rep for failing. In addition, I was thinking of doing the hoses and belt too.
08-30-2006, 12:54 AM
#17
for preventive mait.
coils going bad...........i have seen it, but when they are bad 99% of the time you can see that they are bad with you eyes. they get water in them and swell up with rust and spltt and you can see all the rusty plates just looking att he top of the coil, if they arent split dont worry about them your wasting your money
belt if its cracked replace it if not dont worry porsche says 60k for pice of mind you can change it its easy
hoses just squeeze them if they feel firm they are ok if they feel mushy then change em,
really 996s leak oil........thats really the only common thing i see alot of
yeah theres other little things that happen frequently but for the most part they are bullet proof.
i agree with the clutch when it stops moving take it in
coils going bad...........i have seen it, but when they are bad 99% of the time you can see that they are bad with you eyes. they get water in them and swell up with rust and spltt and you can see all the rusty plates just looking att he top of the coil, if they arent split dont worry about them your wasting your money
belt if its cracked replace it if not dont worry porsche says 60k for pice of mind you can change it its easy
hoses just squeeze them if they feel firm they are ok if they feel mushy then change em,
really 996s leak oil........thats really the only common thing i see alot of
yeah theres other little things that happen frequently but for the most part they are bullet proof.
i agree with the clutch when it stops moving take it in
08-30-2006, 01:38 AM
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Originally Posted by theonlyrobertson
I called around for estimates with the following results:
F & S, Springfield, MA ~ $1700.
Inskip, RI ~ $2100
Natick European Engineering, Natick, MA ~ $1500.
Natick has a really good rep for Porsche work but isn't a dealer, but I have more confidence in their ability to do this job than any dealer.
F & S, Springfield, MA ~ $1700.
Inskip, RI ~ $2100
Natick European Engineering, Natick, MA ~ $1500.
Natick has a really good rep for Porsche work but isn't a dealer, but I have more confidence in their ability to do this job than any dealer.
08-30-2006, 10:19 AM
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My location...
I'm located in Charlton, just east of Sturbridge. Not sure of a DIY project if the RMS needs to be replaced when it becomes visible. Seems to be sensitive to installation and having the right tools. The rest of it would be interesting to do.
--Dale
--Dale
08-30-2006, 10:41 PM
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Originally Posted by theonlyrobertson
I'm located in Charlton
Originally Posted by theonlyrobertson
Not sure of a DIY project if the RMS needs to be replaced when it becomes visible. Seems to be sensitive to installation and having the right tools.
09-01-2006, 10:31 AM
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Maybe next summer
Ok, I think I can survive the winter (that 'll be another 8Kmiles on it) and through to next summer before I decide to do anything. Thanks for all the input. Maybe I'll take up Jason and tackle this in my driveway.
09-03-2006, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Adrian
This can work out the following ways:
1/. The non leaking RMS is replaced with a new one and it doesn't leak. Owner has parted with his money, but he doesn't really know if he achieved anything.
2/. The current non leaking RMS is not replaced and some time down the track it starts to leak and the owner says: "Damn I should have replaced it then".
3/. The current non leaking RMS is replaced by a new RMS and some time down the track it starts to leak and the owner says: "Damn why did I have that RMS replaced?"
1/. The non leaking RMS is replaced with a new one and it doesn't leak. Owner has parted with his money, but he doesn't really know if he achieved anything.
2/. The current non leaking RMS is not replaced and some time down the track it starts to leak and the owner says: "Damn I should have replaced it then".
3/. The current non leaking RMS is replaced by a new RMS and some time down the track it starts to leak and the owner says: "Damn why did I have that RMS replaced?"
4/.The current non leaking RMS is not replaced and and will never leak?
The owner says:"I did the right thing!"
09-04-2006, 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by toddel68
What happened to:
4/.The current non leaking RMS is not replaced and and will never leak?
The owner says:"I did the right thing!"
4/.The current non leaking RMS is not replaced and and will never leak?
The owner says:"I did the right thing!"
Ciao,
Adrian.
