Choosing between two used 996s. Need opinions
#1
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Choosing between two used 996s. Need opinions
Hello guys,
I've narrowed my search for a used 996 down to two cars. Both are mint condition '99 silver/black C2's.
Assuming all other factors/options being equal, Car#1 will cost me $5000 more but it adds the following options:
Full Leather
Supple Leather
Digital Sound
CD Changer
Aluminum guages/shifter/e-brake/door sills
Dual power seats w/drivers side memory
Car#1 has 25K miles and I've negotiated a price of $52,500 with a local Porsche dealer. Car #2 doesn't have the above mentioned options but has only 20K miles and the private owner is willing to sell to me for $47,500.
Which is the better buy/choice? I like the exclusive options but I'm not sure if it's worth the $5000, especially when I try to resell the car later. Do the prices I negotiated sound fair given today's market conditions?
Thanks for your opinions!
I've narrowed my search for a used 996 down to two cars. Both are mint condition '99 silver/black C2's.
Assuming all other factors/options being equal, Car#1 will cost me $5000 more but it adds the following options:
Full Leather
Supple Leather
Digital Sound
CD Changer
Aluminum guages/shifter/e-brake/door sills
Dual power seats w/drivers side memory
Car#1 has 25K miles and I've negotiated a price of $52,500 with a local Porsche dealer. Car #2 doesn't have the above mentioned options but has only 20K miles and the private owner is willing to sell to me for $47,500.
Which is the better buy/choice? I like the exclusive options but I'm not sure if it's worth the $5000, especially when I try to resell the car later. Do the prices I negotiated sound fair given today's market conditions?
Thanks for your opinions!
#2
I would go with the second car. If you plan to keep it for a long period of time and then consider the first. If you trade it back in later, the dealers arent going to give you extra for the options.
So save the cash! Have some dealer perform a full service and go with the second car. Also dealers are trying to mark up for cash and the private guy is trying to get rid of the car.
GOOD LUCK
So save the cash! Have some dealer perform a full service and go with the second car. Also dealers are trying to mark up for cash and the private guy is trying to get rid of the car.
GOOD LUCK
#3
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John,
My personal opinion would be to go with the $47.5K car with less options. Number 1, a 20K car at this price is a very good deal. Number 2, my belief is that while the bells and whistles you listed on the higher-priced dealer car are nice, the only one you I would really want to duplicate is the CD changer. The others I can do without, especially since the Porsche standard seats/seat material are very good. You can get a good CD changer installed for $300 - $500 dollars.
If the options were litronics vs. standard lights, or clear lenses vs. yellow, then the question is different. But based on the options you have described, I would go with the lower-priced, private-sale car. At $47.5K, you won't end up losing a lot of money on resale either, since I think we are at a trough on P-car prices.
Of course, these are just my $0.02 without having seen either car, so the usual caveats, disclaimers, etc. Just a face-value opinion to help you make your decision.
Regards.
My personal opinion would be to go with the $47.5K car with less options. Number 1, a 20K car at this price is a very good deal. Number 2, my belief is that while the bells and whistles you listed on the higher-priced dealer car are nice, the only one you I would really want to duplicate is the CD changer. The others I can do without, especially since the Porsche standard seats/seat material are very good. You can get a good CD changer installed for $300 - $500 dollars.
If the options were litronics vs. standard lights, or clear lenses vs. yellow, then the question is different. But based on the options you have described, I would go with the lower-priced, private-sale car. At $47.5K, you won't end up losing a lot of money on resale either, since I think we are at a trough on P-car prices.
Of course, these are just my $0.02 without having seen either car, so the usual caveats, disclaimers, etc. Just a face-value opinion to help you make your decision.
Regards.
#4
Rennlist Member
If the 2nd car has at least full leather interior(not supple) then I go for that(you'll complain less about how cheap looking it is without it). The other stuff you don't really need. Simpler is always better. I would recommend litronics and traction control. Regards. Mike
#7
Is either of them an "early" '99? Really a '98 in ROW?
Easily identified by the yellow tail lights instead of clear, although they could have been changed out.
If the more expensive car was a "late" '99 (clear lights) with options that you liked, and still had a warranty, it might justify the price over an "early" 99 with no remaining warranty.
Easily identified by the yellow tail lights instead of clear, although they could have been changed out.
If the more expensive car was a "late" '99 (clear lights) with options that you liked, and still had a warranty, it might justify the price over an "early" 99 with no remaining warranty.
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#9
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pfb,
The cheaper car IS an early '99, registered first in 7/98. The more expensive car was first registered in 5/99.
Do the 'early 99' cars have more problems that should prevent me from buying if the factory warranty has already expired?
At first, I was leaning towards the cheaper car because I felt the extra options were not worth an additional $5000 to me. But now I'm leaning slightly towards the more expensive car because it still has 10 months of factory warranty remaining.
The cheaper car IS an early '99, registered first in 7/98. The more expensive car was first registered in 5/99.
Do the 'early 99' cars have more problems that should prevent me from buying if the factory warranty has already expired?
At first, I was leaning towards the cheaper car because I felt the extra options were not worth an additional $5000 to me. But now I'm leaning slightly towards the more expensive car because it still has 10 months of factory warranty remaining.
#11
Given this chioce, I would spent the extra 5G's. The options I do not have, I would like. The warranty I do not have with my 'early 99' I wish I had. My car was sold 4/98, so its out of warranty and making noises...
I love silver guages, and supple leather, HUGE difference in the leather...
I love silver guages, and supple leather, HUGE difference in the leather...
#12
[quote]Originally posted by John in Norcal:
<strong>pfb,
Do the 'early 99' cars have more problems that should prevent me from buying if the factory warranty has already expired?
</strong><hr></blockquote>
It's been a while and I can't remember the details, but yes, the early '99's (really '98's) had some service issues that the later '99's (true '99's) did not have. Some kind of engine oil leak problem?? Also a radio upgrade?
Likely already resolved on a car with that kind of mileage, but also keep in mind that resale on an early '99 will always be less than a late '99 to a knowlegable buyer.
<strong>pfb,
Do the 'early 99' cars have more problems that should prevent me from buying if the factory warranty has already expired?
</strong><hr></blockquote>
It's been a while and I can't remember the details, but yes, the early '99's (really '98's) had some service issues that the later '99's (true '99's) did not have. Some kind of engine oil leak problem?? Also a radio upgrade?
Likely already resolved on a car with that kind of mileage, but also keep in mind that resale on an early '99 will always be less than a late '99 to a knowlegable buyer.
#13
The way I view this problem is as follows. Say the car cost $80,000 new. You drive it for 80,000 miles the car is basically gone. Therefore, it cost a $1 a mile to drive. But generally you trade it after 50,000 miles and get some residual so it probably really depreciates at $1.35 per mile. Therefore 5,000 miles at 1.35 should yeild a difference of $6,500 to $7,000. Throw in the great options and warranty and the more expensive care is actually a better value by $3,000 to $4,000.
#14
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Thanks to everyone for your valuable advice.
Today I bought the more expensive car at the Porsche dealer. The mfg date on the car is 3/99, so I assume that it qualifies as a 'late MY99'. That along with the fact that it still has 10 months remaining on the factory warranty made me decide to spend the extra $5000.
As a former 993, Boxster and 951 owner, I'm thrilled to own my first 996 and look forward to sharing opinions and ideas with all of you in the future.
Best regards,
John
1999 996 C2
Arctic silver/black
Today I bought the more expensive car at the Porsche dealer. The mfg date on the car is 3/99, so I assume that it qualifies as a 'late MY99'. That along with the fact that it still has 10 months remaining on the factory warranty made me decide to spend the extra $5000.
As a former 993, Boxster and 951 owner, I'm thrilled to own my first 996 and look forward to sharing opinions and ideas with all of you in the future.
Best regards,
John
1999 996 C2
Arctic silver/black
#15
Rennlist Member
All model years have had leaking rear main seals, even 2002s , even after redesigned seal in June 2000 , so that shouldn't be an issue with early 99s. Main problem is that many of those cars are approaching end of 4 year warranty, as previously stated. As for as used resale value of stuff like full leather, supple leather, alum gear shift, brake handle, gauges, and other brightwork, they add zilch to wholesale per my long time Porsche salesman - so if the dealer is charging a premium for those items, you are being taken to the bank - their profit on the sale will be more on ripping you off for full leather than on the car itself !! Buyer beware !!