Window doesn't go down when open/shuting door
Track Day
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
I have the same problem on my passenger door and posted about it last year, but ended up just living with it because I've been too lazy to troubleshoot further, lol... If you open it up, take photos- if you're lucky, it's just a bit of play in a bushing and you can reinforce it to fix the issue. Otherwise, you need to buy a new window regulator. Please let me know how it goes; I've got the next week off and you may inspire me to actually get around to fixing this.
If you do need to replace it, I believe the Part# is 996-542-075-04 (left) and 996-542-076-04 (right).
If you do need to replace it, I believe the Part# is 996-542-075-04 (left) and 996-542-076-04 (right).
I talked to my Porsche Tech and he said it is the window regulator. Total cost to fix with labor and OEM part = $350
Cruisin'
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
no squeeking on this one and pushing down manually does not budge the window. leading up to this, the window did it a couple times and restarting the motor cleared it up but no such luck this time.
i'm questioning if i should be going after the dash switch or the door as i'm not sure how the power for this is routed.
its odd that it is both the 1/2" drop as well as the whole range of lowering the window that is out.
i'm questioning if i should be going after the dash switch or the door as i'm not sure how the power for this is routed.
its odd that it is both the 1/2" drop as well as the whole range of lowering the window that is out.
I have the same problem. It's stuck all the way up. I heard a clicking sound when I press the button up, but nothing when I press down. The window won<t go down if I try to move it manually or by pressing down.
What do I need to do?
Thanks
Racer
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 267
Likes: 6
From: SF Bay Area
hi guys,
glad i found this thread, but two questions:
1) i'm still confused when it's the window "regulator" vs. the "micro-switch" - isn't there a way to tell?
2) many here quoting $350 range, for labor and OEM parts...my indep quoting $600...are SF prices that much higher?
thx in advance.
Patrick
03 C4S
glad i found this thread, but two questions:
1) i'm still confused when it's the window "regulator" vs. the "micro-switch" - isn't there a way to tell?
2) many here quoting $350 range, for labor and OEM parts...my indep quoting $600...are SF prices that much higher?
thx in advance.
Patrick
03 C4S
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 19,031
Likes: 268
From: Bentonville, AR
hi guys,
glad i found this thread, but two questions:
1) i'm still confused when it's the window "regulator" vs. the "micro-switch" - isn't there a way to tell?
2) many here quoting $350 range, for labor and OEM parts...my indep quoting $600...are SF prices that much higher?
thx in advance.
Patrick
03 C4S
glad i found this thread, but two questions:
1) i'm still confused when it's the window "regulator" vs. the "micro-switch" - isn't there a way to tell?
2) many here quoting $350 range, for labor and OEM parts...my indep quoting $600...are SF prices that much higher?
thx in advance.
Patrick
03 C4S
When the driver's side window failed to drop when I used the outside door handle but dropped when I used the inside door handle the tech found the door handle switch bad.
When the driver's side window failed to drop enough when the door handle was opened, the tech removed the door panel and found the regulator worn out. He said it fell apart as he removed it to replace it with a new one.
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 7,284
Likes: 140
From: Philadelphia, PA
hi guys,
glad i found this thread, but two questions:
1) i'm still confused when it's the window "regulator" vs. the "micro-switch" - isn't there a way to tell?
2) many here quoting $350 range, for labor and OEM parts...my indep quoting $600...are SF prices that much higher?
thx in advance.
Patrick
03 C4S
glad i found this thread, but two questions:
1) i'm still confused when it's the window "regulator" vs. the "micro-switch" - isn't there a way to tell?
2) many here quoting $350 range, for labor and OEM parts...my indep quoting $600...are SF prices that much higher?
thx in advance.
Patrick
03 C4S
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 7,284
Likes: 140
From: Philadelphia, PA
I've had the regulator done and that sounds about right - less if you buy the part on Pelican and do it yourself. I can't speak for the microswitch.
Banned
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,837
Likes: 15
From: Madison, WI
I seem to remember some sort of activity that one goes through to reset the lowering and raising function with door operation....cannot remember the exact sequence. Seems it involved lowering the window a bit, then raising it tight while holding the window rocker switch down (or raised position) some seconds.
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Joined: May 2001
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If you're considering DIY on this, here are some helpful steps when determining if your regulator has failed: 996 Window Regulator Replacement
Also, a self-test once the door panel is removed:
With the regulator detached from the door frame and the window, you should test the motor. With your hands out of the way of the motor, carefully press lightly on the window switch and see if the motor moves properly. If the motor doesn’t move at all, then it probably is worn out, assuming that you’ve checked the window switch (check the voltage to the motor when you press the window switch to see if it’s getting 12V).
Mark/Pelican Parts
Also, a self-test once the door panel is removed:
With the regulator detached from the door frame and the window, you should test the motor. With your hands out of the way of the motor, carefully press lightly on the window switch and see if the motor moves properly. If the motor doesn’t move at all, then it probably is worn out, assuming that you’ve checked the window switch (check the voltage to the motor when you press the window switch to see if it’s getting 12V).
Mark/Pelican Parts
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Track Day
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas, NV
Window Drop Fix
My '03 has low miles and few door openings so I was "unhappy" when the driver's window quit dropping with either handle. The window went up and down quietly and smoothly with the switch, and when the handle was pulled you could hear a small motor trying to do something. No window movement.
I studied this thread and then pulled my door panel, airbag and foam liner off. Went well, but be careful of a small plastic locating tab at the top of the c-shaped door-pull cover that is just dying to snap off.
Then made the mistake of reconnecting my battery and testing everything with the panel off. Mistake because now my airbag light is on...shoulda read the threads on that subject before starting work! Sigh...anyone in Vegas with a reset tool, PM me please...don't force me to have a dealer touch my car!!
But...the testing sans door panel showed a lot of slack in the cable located in the lower right side of the door. After messing around with it, I inserted a plastic washer to space the stock plastic cable locator, pushing it back about 1/8", making the cable tighter. Worked. Spaced it a bit more (one more thin plastic washer than is shown in my blurry photo) and it worked perfectly.
If you pop the green locator out of its housing you can cut a thin slit in the spacers, slide them over the cable and then up onto the locator. Also, you can leave the airbag and most of the foam liner in place, just peel up the lower right corner and bottom.
So, if your symptoms match mine, perhaps this might help...Nick
I studied this thread and then pulled my door panel, airbag and foam liner off. Went well, but be careful of a small plastic locating tab at the top of the c-shaped door-pull cover that is just dying to snap off.
Then made the mistake of reconnecting my battery and testing everything with the panel off. Mistake because now my airbag light is on...shoulda read the threads on that subject before starting work! Sigh...anyone in Vegas with a reset tool, PM me please...don't force me to have a dealer touch my car!!
But...the testing sans door panel showed a lot of slack in the cable located in the lower right side of the door. After messing around with it, I inserted a plastic washer to space the stock plastic cable locator, pushing it back about 1/8", making the cable tighter. Worked. Spaced it a bit more (one more thin plastic washer than is shown in my blurry photo) and it worked perfectly.
If you pop the green locator out of its housing you can cut a thin slit in the spacers, slide them over the cable and then up onto the locator. Also, you can leave the airbag and most of the foam liner in place, just peel up the lower right corner and bottom.
So, if your symptoms match mine, perhaps this might help...Nick
