Importance of matching Coolant Color?
#1
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Coolant is low, need to add 1/2 quart or so. Local (trusted) import shop didn't have "Porsche" brand coolant in stock, but assured me the Jaguar coolant was the exact same stuff (in terms of impurities, etc).
Went to add it, and noticed it (the Jag coolant) is orange in color. The coolant in my expansion tank appears to be light blue/green.
Does used coolant change from the orange to the light blue? Has anyone added Porsche coolant themselves...and what color was it from the bottle?
Thanks
Went to add it, and noticed it (the Jag coolant) is orange in color. The coolant in my expansion tank appears to be light blue/green.
Does used coolant change from the orange to the light blue? Has anyone added Porsche coolant themselves...and what color was it from the bottle?
Thanks
#2
Three Wheelin'
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You should use Porsche coolant if you can, If you just need to top off your expansion tank, then just use distilled water.
Porsche uses G12 type coolant. Here is a discussion of this topic with some good links on color, etc.
Porsche uses G12 type coolant. Here is a discussion of this topic with some good links on color, etc.
#4
Three Wheelin'
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Originally Posted by marlinspike
You shouldn't mix coolant colors unless you are just trying to get out of the woods and will be flushing the system ASAP.
Here is a table that discusses the different manufacturers of this type of coolant.
But in the end, if you are just a little low in the expansion tank, just fill with distilled water up to the full mark.
#5
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Thanks guys...I topped it off with distilled water. I then attempted to 'burp' the system, as others have advised in the past. To do so, I :
1) Removed coolant cap
2) Let the car run idle for about 15 minutes.
4) Replaced cap
4) Turned off car.
I didn't really notice any 'burping'...did I do the process properly? Does that just mean I didn't have any air in their? Does it matter if I replaced the cap before or after turning the car off in the end?
1) Removed coolant cap
2) Let the car run idle for about 15 minutes.
4) Replaced cap
4) Turned off car.
I didn't really notice any 'burping'...did I do the process properly? Does that just mean I didn't have any air in their? Does it matter if I replaced the cap before or after turning the car off in the end?
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#8
Race Car
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When you get to the point (3 years or so) to change the fluid, simply use any brand named coolant in the system.. They now make 50/50 mixtures that make it easy and no need to worry about distilled water. I use Peak coolant sold at Menards and many other places. No need for special Porsche coolant during a change.
#9
Three Wheelin'
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Originally Posted by 1999Porsche911
When you get to the point (3 years or so) to change the fluid, simply use any brand named coolant in the system.. They now make 50/50 mixtures that make it easy and no need to worry about distilled water. I use Peak coolant sold at Menards and many other places. No need for special Porsche coolant during a change.
Yes you can use any manufacturer's brand of Coolant,
But no not any type of coolant. It MUST be an OAT / G12-G12+ compliant coolant. Of primary concern is that non-OAT coolant can cause premature failure of water pump and other seals.
The same goes for VW, Audi, Mercedes, Volvo.
Texaco/havoline DEX-COOL is an over-the-counter G12 coolant that is available at Wallmart, etc.
#10
Race Car
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Originally Posted by Orient Express
Yes and no, again.
Yes you can use any manufacturer's brand of Coolant,
But no not any type of coolant. It MUST be an OAT / G12-G12+ compliant coolant. Of primary concern is that non-OAT coolant can cause premature failure of water pump and other seals.
The same goes for VW, Audi, Mercedes, Volvo.
Yes you can use any manufacturer's brand of Coolant,
But no not any type of coolant. It MUST be an OAT / G12-G12+ compliant coolant. Of primary concern is that non-OAT coolant can cause premature failure of water pump and other seals.
The same goes for VW, Audi, Mercedes, Volvo.
Since your coolant should be changed more frequently than 5 years or 150,000 miles, there is no benefit to paying the premium price for OAT coolant.
Wanna see how, even the OAT coolant breaks down in just 2 years? Test the voltage of the coolant by using a volt meter. The result will be directly related to how much corrosion is going on in your cooling system.
But, for those that prefer it, there are many coolants (including PEAK Global Life) that can be mixed with or used to replace the Porsche coolant for a fraction of the price.
#11
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Originally Posted by 1999Porsche911
This is marketing garbage.
However, when this subject came up last month, I did contact my close friend who is in marketing with Chevron. I sent him the G-12 spec sheet and chart that Orient Express posted, asking about Texaco / Chevron having a product that is interchangeable. After consulting with Chevron Technical division, the answer came back that the G-12 spec was real (i.e. not a marketing ploy), and different from their product, and that I should avoid any antifreeze that did not meet the G-12 spec. (he's still checking on such a product being in Texaco's line, as it appears from Orient Express' attachment).
I tend to give some weight to chemists who tell me their company's product is not for me. I also tend to err on the side of caution when it comes to my car.
That said, I urge my answer on no one, and certainly cannot get into a debate based upon the technical merits.
#12
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didn't know all this....you guys make me a very smart driver...luckily I just spend the 40 bucks for 1 gallon (or less) at the Porsche dealer to top it up! didn't want to take a risk!
#13
Three Wheelin'
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Thanks for the audit of my claims. It is good to know that my statements are not always hot air...
I do find that some maintenance items that are OEM re-branded tend to be a little too pricey, and that there are perfectly good generic equals on the market today, but you have to be very discerning. In this case, all coolants are not the same, even though they do the same thing, and one might not encounter issues for many miles. But in this case, there are over the counter 3rd party coolant products that can be had for 25% of the OEM brand, and are just as good.
Another item that can get you in trouble is Power Steering fluid. Most german cars use mineral based fluids vs the ones that US cars use. Many a set of german steering rack seals have been compromised from using the wrong formulation.
But one item that I am amazed with is OEM pricing of spark plugs. Here is a case where as long as you pick 3rd party replacement for the OEM part, there is no difference. I would rather pay $3 for a spark plug than $12 given that it will be replaced in 30K miles anyway.
In the end, the moral is do your homework and know your car. Short of a house or a wife & kids, it can be your most expensive asset, and bears more than a passing interest in its operation and well being.
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I do find that some maintenance items that are OEM re-branded tend to be a little too pricey, and that there are perfectly good generic equals on the market today, but you have to be very discerning. In this case, all coolants are not the same, even though they do the same thing, and one might not encounter issues for many miles. But in this case, there are over the counter 3rd party coolant products that can be had for 25% of the OEM brand, and are just as good.
Another item that can get you in trouble is Power Steering fluid. Most german cars use mineral based fluids vs the ones that US cars use. Many a set of german steering rack seals have been compromised from using the wrong formulation.
But one item that I am amazed with is OEM pricing of spark plugs. Here is a case where as long as you pick 3rd party replacement for the OEM part, there is no difference. I would rather pay $3 for a spark plug than $12 given that it will be replaced in 30K miles anyway.
In the end, the moral is do your homework and know your car. Short of a house or a wife & kids, it can be your most expensive asset, and bears more than a passing interest in its operation and well being.