http://www.inventivaconcepts.com/fplk.html
#2
don't know, but it looks like a good idea, if you are in a State where a cop sits on every corner of the street trying to catch you for not having a front license plate...I am thinking of making a sticker put this on a magnet...so when I get cought i pay the summon, go to the pig station ( I mean police station) show them the license plate..drive away pull over and remove it.....
#3
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Originally Posted by Nicolaasdb
don't know, but it looks like a good idea, if you are in a State where a cop sits on every corner of the street trying to catch you for not having a front license plate...I am thinking of making a sticker put this on a magnet...so when I get cought i pay the summon, go to the pig station ( I mean police station) show them the license plate..drive away pull over and remove it.....
#4
Nordschleife Master
Johannes (Mr. C4) IIRC had a vinyl plate made for the front (maybe rear) that is an exact replica of the original plate and is basically a giant sticker. Magnets wouldn't work if there is no metal
#6
Pinecone Watchman
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Here is another way to solve the front license plate mounting problem. I posted this in response to a similar question last April and it is still working fine. By the way, I just had a K40 radar detector installed and this mounting arrangement allows for the installation of the laser diffuser beneath the plate.
Here's what I wrote last April (along with photos):
I have installed my front license plate using the rubber Quick-Change Plate Holder from Guardian (about $11 plus S&H) that programmatore first mentioned in his 15Apr05 post. I believe that the result is a significant improvement in looks while making it easier to remove the front plate if necessary (e.g. for mounting a bra at a DE). I may improve further on this design’s fit by bending the plate along a horizontal axis in addition to the vertical axis bend I’m now using.
First, I cut off the mounting flaps that come with the Plate Holder – a chisel works better than a box cutter on this soft, but thick rubber. I then inserted the plate into the holder upside down (i.e. the flanges on the side where the flaps were are now on the bottom). I drilled two, appropriately measured 1/8” holes through both the plate and the holder using a high speed bit. I then drilled two 1/2” holes (coaxial with the 1/8” holes) through only the rubber holder using a Forstner bit (A flat cutting wood bit that is good for a cleaner cut through the soft rubber. A box cutter might also work). These holes were cut to allow the rubber holder to fit over the existing mounting plugs allowing for a much better fit at the sides.
I used two #8x1/2 stainless pan head sheet metal screws to hold the entire assembly to the existing mounting plugs. I painted the screw heads as well as the exposed rubber beneath the plate’s mounting holes using Ace Hardware paint pens of the appropriate color. The screw heads are fine. I’m still considering other methods to conceal the plate’s mounting holes. The photos seem to make these holes more noticeable than they really are (harsh lighting).
Here's what I wrote last April (along with photos):
I have installed my front license plate using the rubber Quick-Change Plate Holder from Guardian (about $11 plus S&H) that programmatore first mentioned in his 15Apr05 post. I believe that the result is a significant improvement in looks while making it easier to remove the front plate if necessary (e.g. for mounting a bra at a DE). I may improve further on this design’s fit by bending the plate along a horizontal axis in addition to the vertical axis bend I’m now using.
First, I cut off the mounting flaps that come with the Plate Holder – a chisel works better than a box cutter on this soft, but thick rubber. I then inserted the plate into the holder upside down (i.e. the flanges on the side where the flaps were are now on the bottom). I drilled two, appropriately measured 1/8” holes through both the plate and the holder using a high speed bit. I then drilled two 1/2” holes (coaxial with the 1/8” holes) through only the rubber holder using a Forstner bit (A flat cutting wood bit that is good for a cleaner cut through the soft rubber. A box cutter might also work). These holes were cut to allow the rubber holder to fit over the existing mounting plugs allowing for a much better fit at the sides.
I used two #8x1/2 stainless pan head sheet metal screws to hold the entire assembly to the existing mounting plugs. I painted the screw heads as well as the exposed rubber beneath the plate’s mounting holes using Ace Hardware paint pens of the appropriate color. The screw heads are fine. I’m still considering other methods to conceal the plate’s mounting holes. The photos seem to make these holes more noticeable than they really are (harsh lighting).
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#8
Pinecone Watchman
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Technically, I get the feeling that the rubber "frame" helps steady and hold the plate to the bumper (the rubber is slightly sticky). Also, it won't allow the metal plate scratch the bumper. Finally. and most importantly, the bumper mounting plugs into which you insert the mounting screws protrude out from the bumper about 1/8". Cutting the 1/2" holes into the rubber frame (as described in the last half of the fourth paragraph of my post, above) allows the plate to fit flush.
Aesthetically, I feel that, by covering the edges of the plate, the rubber frame adds a significantly more finished look. Also, the corners naturally bend backwards which blends into the curve better.
And my wife says I obsess about my 996...HA!!
Aesthetically, I feel that, by covering the edges of the plate, the rubber frame adds a significantly more finished look. Also, the corners naturally bend backwards which blends into the curve better.
And my wife says I obsess about my 996...HA!!
#9
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OK I hear you
When you say bumper mounting plugs, do you mean those plastic white things sticking into the hole for the screws for the license plate? Anyway, I basically like your idea. Thanks!
#10
Pinecone Watchman
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Originally Posted by rch314
When you say bumper mounting plugs, do you mean those plastic white things sticking into the hole for the screws for the license plate? Anyway, I basically like your idea. Thanks!
I'm happy with the result (although even I don't lose any sleep about how my front plate looks). It's hard to translate the effect of a slight curve vs. the standard flat mounting bracket in photos. Also, I'm sure that there's a aerodynamics related performance improvement!
#13
Pinecone Watchman
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Originally Posted by rch314
One last question: did you use any special tool to bend the plate?