Is 996TT master cylinder same as 996?
01-14-2002, 11:49 AM
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Damn! Thanks Gert. Does this mean I probably need to change my master cylinder to go with my GT3 brakes to cure the mushy pedal feel? Also, does ABS/PSM, etc have to be reprogrammed to properly utilize the new master cylinder or is there no interference post master cylinder change? Lastly, what do you get for the master cylinder and do I need anything else?
TIA
TIA
01-14-2002, 01:50 PM
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Ben Don't waist your money on a master.
Call your install guys and make sure they are doing it correctly. There are two bleeder valves on each caliper..make sure they are starting with the passenger rear (outside then inside on the same caliper)
doing the rears first finaly ending up on the front left. After completing lastly go back to the front right and bleed again.
This may need to be done more than one time to get the feel your after.
Good Luck
Dayton
Call your install guys and make sure they are doing it correctly. There are two bleeder valves on each caliper..make sure they are starting with the passenger rear (outside then inside on the same caliper)
doing the rears first finaly ending up on the front left. After completing lastly go back to the front right and bleed again.
This may need to be done more than one time to get the feel your after.
Good Luck
Dayton
01-14-2002, 02:08 PM
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Hi Dayton.
I had them bled Friday after 300 miles, and they were horrible. Took the car to POC DE and actually had the peddle go nearly to the floor when they got hot (not more than about 10 minutes worth of driving). After having them bled (at the event) in the manner you just suggested (don't know if the shop did it that way the first two times, but suspect they did), they were certainly firmer (though not FIRM) "for a while". The guy bleeding them at the event said there was still air in there but some machine or diagnostic tool was necessary (and he didn't have it at the event) - said it costs $10k and most shops don't have it?
I had them bled Friday after 300 miles, and they were horrible. Took the car to POC DE and actually had the peddle go nearly to the floor when they got hot (not more than about 10 minutes worth of driving). After having them bled (at the event) in the manner you just suggested (don't know if the shop did it that way the first two times, but suspect they did), they were certainly firmer (though not FIRM) "for a while". The guy bleeding them at the event said there was still air in there but some machine or diagnostic tool was necessary (and he didn't have it at the event) - said it costs $10k and most shops don't have it?
01-14-2002, 10:52 PM
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The shop needs a Bosch Hammer diagnostic tool which communicates with the ABS system. My car is due to have the brake fluid changed and I have been warned by others to make sure the shop has this tool. The tool is used to open up all of the lines in the ABS unit to allow proper bleeding on cars with traction control.
01-14-2002, 11:29 PM
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Taking it to the dealer on Monday for a $115 brake bleed (probably takes around a 1/2 hour and I'm suppling the brake fluid - they don't sell blue) - vasoline not included.
