Winter Storage suggestions?
#2
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Porsche Battery maintainer (or similar).
Add air to tires; I usually go 45-50 PSI.
Fire the car up every couple of weeks and run for 5-10 minutes, move car a few feet to help avoid flat spotting tires.
The owners' manual has some good suggestions; if you are going to store your car without ever starting it over the winter, there are other considerations for long term storage. Remember too that your remote unlocking won't work after a couple of weeks; you'll have to use the key.
And while the Porsche is "resting" have fun driving in the snow--my favorite form of on-road motorsport (seriously!).
Add air to tires; I usually go 45-50 PSI.
Fire the car up every couple of weeks and run for 5-10 minutes, move car a few feet to help avoid flat spotting tires.
The owners' manual has some good suggestions; if you are going to store your car without ever starting it over the winter, there are other considerations for long term storage. Remember too that your remote unlocking won't work after a couple of weeks; you'll have to use the key.
And while the Porsche is "resting" have fun driving in the snow--my favorite form of on-road motorsport (seriously!).
#3
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If you go to page 5 , there is additional information on winter storage that was discussed earlier. It includes a bulletin from porsche directly.
Cheers and safe driving.
Cheers and safe driving.
#4
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If your garage ever has mice or other small rodents around, I suggest cutting the feet off your wife's panyhose (after she removes them of course) and putting them over the tail pipes to pervent mice from getting into the engine. You also want all windows closed. For piece of mind, I also put a couple of small mouse traps (the sticky kind you can get from Home Depot) on the front seats. Just in case a mouse gets in, he will be caught rather than knaw at my leather.
#7
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Seeing as the gestation period for mince is about 4 weeks, its a very very good idea to safeguard your car. Wouldn't want that nice leather and carpet interior used as a nursery..... I think the mouse traps are key..
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#8
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I would NOT start the motor, you'll only end up building up condensation which will make matters worse; unless you fire it up and DRIVE it for 15-20 miles....but then again, it's not really stored at that point.
A month or two is nothing...assuming battery maintainer of course.
Fill the gas tank completely, change the oil and filter, wash and DRY the entire car, remove carpeted mats, wax and use high quality car cover, overinflate tires or use TireCradles, etc.
Here's a link to an article discussing this and other opinions:
http://www.porschenet.com/winter.html
A month or two is nothing...assuming battery maintainer of course.
Fill the gas tank completely, change the oil and filter, wash and DRY the entire car, remove carpeted mats, wax and use high quality car cover, overinflate tires or use TireCradles, etc.
Here's a link to an article discussing this and other opinions:
http://www.porschenet.com/winter.html
#9
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I would consider putting a chlorine based (toilet bowl cleaner) pellet on the floor of the car IN IT'S OPENED BOX.
Don't let the pellet touch the carpet.
The chlorine gas from the chlorine scent prevent algae on interior surfaces. Works great on my boat.
When spring comes dump the pellet in your toilet.
Don't let the pellet touch the carpet.
The chlorine gas from the chlorine scent prevent algae on interior surfaces. Works great on my boat.
When spring comes dump the pellet in your toilet.
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Originally Posted by 1999Porsche911
In a boat, you won't notice the clorine smell that was assorbed into the leather and carpet. I suspect you would in a closed car.
#12
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As a long time store your Porsche over the winter guy, I'm strongly in favor of periodically starting the engine. While it's true that short runs can lead to moisture condensation in the exhaust, I'd much rather periodically cover the internal engine parts with a fresth bath of oil. Given the choice between preserving the engine or preserving the exhaust system, I'll go for the engine every time. Furthermore many exhaust parts are stainless now, which reduces even further the chance of exhaust corrosion--in fact I haven't seen a rusted out exhaust system on ANY vehicle in recent years--and that used to be a common occurrence here in the Midwest...
Lastly, it's important to run the A/C compressor periodically over the winter; not doing so can lead to leaks in the system. And it's not possible to run the A/C without starting the engine.
Lastly, it's important to run the A/C compressor periodically over the winter; not doing so can lead to leaks in the system. And it's not possible to run the A/C without starting the engine.
#13
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I agree with starting the car periodically. The reason exhaust systems used to rust so much in the past was due to the lead in the fuel we used. Now with unleaded and better materials, no need to worry. Anyway, you can drive your car hard for hours and park it in you garage overnight and if there is ANY humudity in the air, it will condense inside the exhaust system anyway. If you do start it up, let it run up to normal operating temps so the coolant has a chance to circulate.
#14
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In MN this is a ritual for us. Wash the car, change the oil, fill the tires, plug in the battery maintainer and whatever you do, DO NOT start the engine. Running your engine for a short period of time will create condensation in the engine as well as in the exhaust. You should never start your engine unless you intend to get it up to operating temp for an extented period of time.