Please help diagnose PSE problem
#1
Please help diagnose PSE problem
The following facts are relevant:
1) I have an '02 Targa;
2) I have PSE with full electronics;
3) I have the "bent leg" hack done so that the PSE doesn't cut out at any speed;
4) Everything worked perfectly well following the hack (for at least a month), meaning that the default loud worked with no quiet spots, I could hit the button on the dash to mute the exhaust as needed, and PSM I continues to work;
5) Now, the default loud still works (thank god), the button on the dash appears to function correctly (at least the light illuminates upon activation) and PSM I still works, but the exhaust no longer mutes when the dash button is activated.
Any ideas? Thanks.
1) I have an '02 Targa;
2) I have PSE with full electronics;
3) I have the "bent leg" hack done so that the PSE doesn't cut out at any speed;
4) Everything worked perfectly well following the hack (for at least a month), meaning that the default loud worked with no quiet spots, I could hit the button on the dash to mute the exhaust as needed, and PSM I continues to work;
5) Now, the default loud still works (thank god), the button on the dash appears to function correctly (at least the light illuminates upon activation) and PSM I still works, but the exhaust no longer mutes when the dash button is activated.
Any ideas? Thanks.
#3
It could be many things but I would start with the grey-colored relay that this above the positive black cover (used for jump starting) in the engine compartment. You will see a two-wire brownish connector that plugs into the grey relay.
From the grey relay, you will also see a 90 degree rubber tube that connect to a hard plastic tube and two more coming out of the other end. This is the vacuum system for the sport exhaust flaps.
First, have someone press the sport exhaust switch and see if you can hear that grey relay click. The click is very faint so listen closely. If you can hear it, it's good. Then it may be a problem with the vacuum lines. If you don't hear it, then:
I would disconnect the two-wire brownish connector and use a volt meter to see if there is current. (BE CAREFUL not to cross the two volt meter test wires when you test it.) With one person checking the current, have another person press the sport exhaust switch. If you have current, then you most likely need a new grey relay. Simple install/fix.
The other problem could be vacuum related. If the electrial part is okay, you may have a vacuum leak and will have to trace the black tubes and vacuum check the lines.
Check the vacuum flaps that are connected onto the mufflers and see that they move freely by hand and without binding.
I hope this helps.
From the grey relay, you will also see a 90 degree rubber tube that connect to a hard plastic tube and two more coming out of the other end. This is the vacuum system for the sport exhaust flaps.
First, have someone press the sport exhaust switch and see if you can hear that grey relay click. The click is very faint so listen closely. If you can hear it, it's good. Then it may be a problem with the vacuum lines. If you don't hear it, then:
I would disconnect the two-wire brownish connector and use a volt meter to see if there is current. (BE CAREFUL not to cross the two volt meter test wires when you test it.) With one person checking the current, have another person press the sport exhaust switch. If you have current, then you most likely need a new grey relay. Simple install/fix.
The other problem could be vacuum related. If the electrial part is okay, you may have a vacuum leak and will have to trace the black tubes and vacuum check the lines.
Check the vacuum flaps that are connected onto the mufflers and see that they move freely by hand and without binding.
I hope this helps.
#4
Thanks for the detailed answer. I will try this weekend to chase down this problem. I just got back from dinner with my wife, and she complained the whole way about how loud the car was.
#5
Three Wheelin'
resurrecting this thread because I have a similar problem and have followed Jeneric996's instructions but have the following symptoms which are very strange...
- when car is started and not moving the PSE switch works fine... goes on off and I can hear the difference in exhaust ... the default is LOUD
- when I put the exhaust in quiet mode and drive away it automatically goes loud...
- I notice when I switch it back to quiet and depress the clutch it gets loud again... (this happens in neutral and when moving and switching gears)
- when in neutral and switch is in LOUD mode (light off) if I press the clutch to where I can here the clutch pedal click and light on the PSE button flashes ON quickly for a split second... I can replicate this behaviour by depressing the clutch on and off... a quick flash of the light but no change in sound...
- when not moving and pressing the button on and off it works fine... it's when I start rolling and changing gears and depressing the clutch then it always goes to loud if previously in quiet mode...
I've had the PSE diode-delete mod for sometime now and eliminating the speed cutout has been a great mod.
this only started happening consistently today - I noticed this a few times last year after hitting big bumps or potholes which took the PSE out of silent mode and made it loud... but it never disrupted the functionality of the mechanism... until today...
any ideas here?
- when car is started and not moving the PSE switch works fine... goes on off and I can hear the difference in exhaust ... the default is LOUD
- when I put the exhaust in quiet mode and drive away it automatically goes loud...
- I notice when I switch it back to quiet and depress the clutch it gets loud again... (this happens in neutral and when moving and switching gears)
- when in neutral and switch is in LOUD mode (light off) if I press the clutch to where I can here the clutch pedal click and light on the PSE button flashes ON quickly for a split second... I can replicate this behaviour by depressing the clutch on and off... a quick flash of the light but no change in sound...
- when not moving and pressing the button on and off it works fine... it's when I start rolling and changing gears and depressing the clutch then it always goes to loud if previously in quiet mode...
I've had the PSE diode-delete mod for sometime now and eliminating the speed cutout has been a great mod.
this only started happening consistently today - I noticed this a few times last year after hitting big bumps or potholes which took the PSE out of silent mode and made it loud... but it never disrupted the functionality of the mechanism... until today...
any ideas here?
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#8
Three Wheelin'
#9
#10
Three Wheelin'
the pse permanent on mod was snipping a diode... no solder required...
just curious as to why the clutch action automatically de-activates silent mode... doesn't make sense..
just curious as to why the clutch action automatically de-activates silent mode... doesn't make sense..