Bilstein B4 rear shocks question
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Instructor
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Just making sure want to confirm the order of operations here when installing these
1) car up, snug the link into the shock. Leave the swaybar end disconnected and leave the swaybar loose in its mounts
2) lower car to ground and bolt the link to the swaybar
3) last torque down both ends of the link and then the 2 swaybar mounts
sound right?
Also. I am running the eibach adjustable sway bar (has a choice of 3 holes to mount the link). Am I looking to line up the link in a hole such that when I look at the link from the side past the rotor, its perfectly straight from the shock base to the sway bar
Stock spec drop links ok with the eibach sway bar on the 996?
Sorry for all the ?s but there is a lot of help to be had on here and I am appreciative.
1) car up, snug the link into the shock. Leave the swaybar end disconnected and leave the swaybar loose in its mounts
2) lower car to ground and bolt the link to the swaybar
3) last torque down both ends of the link and then the 2 swaybar mounts
sound right?
Also. I am running the eibach adjustable sway bar (has a choice of 3 holes to mount the link). Am I looking to line up the link in a hole such that when I look at the link from the side past the rotor, its perfectly straight from the shock base to the sway bar
Stock spec drop links ok with the eibach sway bar on the 996?
Sorry for all the ?s but there is a lot of help to be had on here and I am appreciative.
Last edited by Enzo665; Nov 30, 2025 at 04:26 PM.
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From: SoCal
You can torque the sway bar into its mounts in step 1.
Your choice of hole on your Eibach sway bar will determine the stiffness of the sway bar. You should use the same hole positions on both ends of the bar. I would recommend you start with the outermost holes as it’s the softest setting and will set the car’s handling balance towards understeer. If you desire more oversteer characteristics, you may choose to use the holes closer to the sway bar to increase its stiffness.
Your choice of hole on your Eibach sway bar will determine the stiffness of the sway bar. You should use the same hole positions on both ends of the bar. I would recommend you start with the outermost holes as it’s the softest setting and will set the car’s handling balance towards understeer. If you desire more oversteer characteristics, you may choose to use the holes closer to the sway bar to increase its stiffness.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2025
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You can torque the sway bar into its mounts in step 1.
Your choice of hole on your Eibach sway bar will determine the stiffness of the sway bar. You should use the same hole positions on both ends of the bar. I would recommend you start with the outermost holes as it’s the softest setting and will set the car’s handling balance towards understeer. If you desire more oversteer characteristics, you may choose to use the holes closer to the sway bar to increase its stiffness.
Your choice of hole on your Eibach sway bar will determine the stiffness of the sway bar. You should use the same hole positions on both ends of the bar. I would recommend you start with the outermost holes as it’s the softest setting and will set the car’s handling balance towards understeer. If you desire more oversteer characteristics, you may choose to use the holes closer to the sway bar to increase its stiffness.
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From: SoCal
The geometry of the aftermarket sway bars don’t exactly have to mimic that of the OEM bars, as long as the mounting points are within the same vicinity.
You bring up a good point about the aftermarket bar being a different size. Did Eibach include any sway bar bushings with the bar, or are you expected to reuse the OE bushings?
To check for any binding, I would fully torque down the sway bar to its mounts, but leave the links unattached. Then I would try to rotate the bar. The OEM bars rotate fairly easily. If you need to put an absurd amount of strength to rotate the bar, then this binding may likely be the reason why your nuts have been sheared off.
You bring up a good point about the aftermarket bar being a different size. Did Eibach include any sway bar bushings with the bar, or are you expected to reuse the OE bushings?
To check for any binding, I would fully torque down the sway bar to its mounts, but leave the links unattached. Then I would try to rotate the bar. The OEM bars rotate fairly easily. If you need to put an absurd amount of strength to rotate the bar, then this binding may likely be the reason why your nuts have been sheared off.
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Yes I used the included bushings. The bar can be rotated by hand when both droplinks are detached.
when I was talking size yeah i was thinking also the distance the oem link needs to travel to get to the sway bar when mounted. When mounted i notice the links are not straight up and down when looking from the back. Instead they travel a bit towards the midline of the car to mount to the swaybar.
For what its worth the installation sheet makes it seem like it should bolt right onto whatever is already there
https://eibach.com/storage/instructions/D2670.pdf
when I was talking size yeah i was thinking also the distance the oem link needs to travel to get to the sway bar when mounted. When mounted i notice the links are not straight up and down when looking from the back. Instead they travel a bit towards the midline of the car to mount to the swaybar.
For what its worth the installation sheet makes it seem like it should bolt right onto whatever is already there
https://eibach.com/storage/instructions/D2670.pdf
Last edited by Enzo665; Nov 30, 2025 at 05:57 PM.
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From: SoCal
It’s good that the bar can be rotated by hand when the links are disconnected. I’m more inclined to believe that your shocks were welded poorly… probably made on a Friday, haha.
As for the links connecting to the bar at an angle: I would guess that it’s probably fine. If the ball joints are able to swivel to a greater angle, then this attachment angle may not be of concern. Would you mind sharing some photos of the installed links so we can see whether it’s absurd? For photographic purposes, you can use zip ties to attach the link to the shock in a quick-n-dirty fashion, instead of struggling with the locknuts again.
As for the links connecting to the bar at an angle: I would guess that it’s probably fine. If the ball joints are able to swivel to a greater angle, then this attachment angle may not be of concern. Would you mind sharing some photos of the installed links so we can see whether it’s absurd? For photographic purposes, you can use zip ties to attach the link to the shock in a quick-n-dirty fashion, instead of struggling with the locknuts again.
Burning Brakes
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What torque spec did you use for drop link to rear shock absorber?
Having a torque wrench that can hold an open ended spanner isn't typically owned by the dedicated hobbyist, so measuring the torque is involving and since the welds on the square nut have failed, who is to know if the torque applied was already higher than specified?
Hole bigger than bolt diameter is intentional. At proper torque both parts will be clamped together with zero movement of shank in the hole. Bolts (screws) should not be under shear or bending loads, they will fail then.
Having a torque wrench that can hold an open ended spanner isn't typically owned by the dedicated hobbyist, so measuring the torque is involving and since the welds on the square nut have failed, who is to know if the torque applied was already higher than specified?
Hole bigger than bolt diameter is intentional. At proper torque both parts will be clamped together with zero movement of shank in the hole. Bolts (screws) should not be under shear or bending loads, they will fail then.
