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Old 12-05-2023, 09:21 AM
  #46  
De Jeeper
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The tensioners r external and just screw out of the block. Not sure what the issue is here. The only componants u cant get to r the ims wear pads, ims chain and 2 long chains. Generally these parts do not fail. What r your cam deviation? If they r below -4 i wouldnt touch the motor at all.

U basically have 3 viable options. Do nothing, do $2-4k in preventitive maintenance or a full rebuild. There really is no middle ground with these motors.
Old 12-05-2023, 09:21 AM
  #47  
Marv
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You might be overthinking this.

Where in Florida are you located?
Old 12-05-2023, 10:01 AM
  #48  
Icelia
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Originally Posted by De Jeeper
The tensioners r external and just screw out of the block. Not sure what the issue is here. The only componants u cant get to r the ims wear pads, ims chain and 2 long chains. Generally these parts do not fail. What r your cam deviation? If they r below -4 i wouldnt touch the motor at all.

U basically have 3 viable options. Do nothing, do $2-4k in preventitive maintenance or a full rebuild. There really is no middle ground with these motors.
The cam tensioners and pads were replaced at 105k, I am only talking about the crank to IMS chain tensioner. part: 99610516555

With 190k miles, I expect the wear pad to be nearly gone, and would like to replace before the chain starts to eat away at the paddle itself.
I would like to put one of these in there: https://lnengineering.com/billet-ims...er-paddle.html

I would prefer to do the few thousand dollar preventative work to extend the life of the engine, but being unable to replace a common failure part (the crank to IMS tensioner I referenced above) means that I would not have full confidence in the engine. I plan to do 2 very long trips in late '24, and early '25, that I simply don't want to be worried about the engine.

So from my perspective; if I can't actually replace one of the common failure points, then am I really preventing anything?

$4k in preventative work, but still have a big worry,

or $10-12k for an essentially 'new' engine?

Maybe I'll just take the second option.

Old 12-05-2023, 10:35 AM
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Icelia
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Originally Posted by Marv
You might be overthinking this.

Where in Florida are you located?
Space coast... Near you I believe
Old 12-05-2023, 12:08 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Icelia
Space coast... Near you I believe
Space coast is the best!
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Old 12-05-2023, 12:14 PM
  #51  
De Jeeper
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U will be more like $15-20k for a like new motor. My point is there is no inbetween with these motors. U r wecome to believe what u want but if u split the case their is no way to put it back together and have a reliable motor without a full rebuild. This has been stated many times by any of the better engine builders that pop in on this site.

The ims paddle does fail occasionally but its far from a common issue. At 200k miles my motor pads all looked real good. I did all the stuff i listed earlier in the thread and i actually only had bad variocam pads and 1 stuck tensioner. 300 miles later i blew the motor due to oil starvation. I think i would be much more concerned with the condition of the bearings then with anything else considering u had no data or havent pulled telemetry from the dme. An oil anaysis should really be your 1st step. I fully agree with doing the pm on these cars but u should be getting a baseline before u start.
Old 12-05-2023, 12:39 PM
  #52  
Icelia
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Originally Posted by De Jeeper
U will be more like $15-20k for a like new motor. My point is there is no inbetween with these motors. U r wecome to believe what u want but if u split the case their is no way to put it back together and have a reliable motor without a full rebuild. This has been stated many times by any of the better engine builders that pop in on this site.

The ims paddle does fail occasionally but its far from a common issue. At 200k miles my motor pads all looked real good. I did all the stuff i listed earlier in the thread and i actually only had bad variocam pads and 1 stuck tensioner. 300 miles later i blew the motor due to oil starvation. I think i would be much more concerned with the condition of the bearings then with anything else considering u had no data or havent pulled telemetry from the dme. An oil anaysis should really be your 1st step. I fully agree with doing the pm on these cars but u should be getting a baseline before u start.
I do have access to deviations, and have a reader that can see over-revs from the DME.

If yours looked good at 200k, then I hope mine does as well. I will check. You have experience with an engine of the same age/milage, so I do appreciate your input.
I believe you when you say there is no way to split the case and have a reliable engine.

The $12k I estimated was based on doing all the work myself. (aside from the machining, and valve seats and guides.) Reasonable?



Old 12-05-2023, 01:03 PM
  #53  
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Precovid i was at $12.5k in parts with nickasil bores..... it all depends in what options u choose and parts avalability.

A porsche short block and heads done by hoffman may be the best solution for a nontrack driver. I think u can be all in for under $15k with no fear of binning the rebuild. These motors require some special tools and the rebuild video by Raby is a must.
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Old 12-05-2023, 01:09 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by De Jeeper
Precovid i was at $12.5k in parts with nickasil bores..... it all depends in what options u choose and parts avalability.

A porsche short block and heads done by hoffman may be the best solution for a nontrack driver. I think u can be all in for under $15k with no fear of binning the rebuild. These motors require some special tools and the rebuild video by Raby is a must.
gotcha. Yep then I see why you would say $15k Prices surely have come up.

Here is hoping the wear pad is in good shape then.
Old 12-06-2023, 09:44 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Icelia
So what would you do if you wanted to get another 200k out of the engine? I would put in new main and rod bearings.?
Many pictures I've seen online indicate our crank bearings are worn through long before reaching 200k miles.
Old 12-06-2023, 11:25 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by hardtailer
If rings normally rotate when the engine is running wouldn't that mean that they will continue to do so once put back into the same cilinder on the same piston?

I believe only the oil control rings have a pin on the M96 to never have the ring gap end up at the low side of the cilinder where oil invariably would collect when sitting. However, the 1st and 2nd compression rings can rotate AFAIK.
The second ring is pinned on the factory pistons. The top and oil controls are free to rotate.

No aftermarket piston manufacturer, even Mahle Motorsport, offers pinning.
Old 12-06-2023, 01:57 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Icelia

So from my perspective; if I can't actually replace one of the common failure points, then am I really preventing anything?

.
From my perspective, @ 200k, your engine doesn't owe you a thing. Its treated you and previous owners to more than many 996 owners ever get, by double or triple.

To throw in my 2cents, no you are not preventing anything by replacing a few parts that are still working on a 200k m96, 1 time use m96 blocks.
Drive it and enjoy it. Replace broken parts when needed if it makes sense.

@ 200k doing a long trip is a gamble. Only 1 way to get a confidence inspiring engine @ 200k.
If you must have a long trip dependable car, must go whole hog or nothing with a m96, just as DJ said.

Imo, 15k is a pipe dream even for a diy m96 engine build.

Sleeved big bore nik'd cyls,,,You wont get out of LN for less than $7500 after shipping and tax and maybe a few small parts like oversize head gaskets, etc.

200k m96 Heads at Len H, are going to cost you $5000 after seats/guides/springs/mild porting/maybe a valve or 2/etc. Just saw a set of his stage 2 996.2 heads. WOW, They looked insanely well done, impressive. I've seen/done lots and lots of HP heads, imo heads are where power is made,, these are some of the best I've ever seen. Should let all the available power+ be delivered with crisp throttle response.

m96 engine builder (Charles) Experts say, 1/2 the cranks they see are cracked. New cranks are $6000, reconditioned cranks are $4500 if you can find 1.

Now add in all the normal rebuild parts like bearings, Rods?, DMF, clutch, arp fastners, gaskets, imsb solution, oil pumps, valve train components, etc...

Then throw in a nice balance job and maybe a HP set of cams....

Yup, with a short block from the dealer, it would save some, especially if your crank is bad. But you still have the problematic loco-sil defective structure block. Some have developed bore score/IMSB/RMS problems in under 30k on oem blocks. And if you ever have a problem with chains or other parts that need to split the cases, you're in the same boat of 1 time use cylinders.
With nik-sil cylinders you have a reusable block. Clean off the aluminum from the nik cross hatch with some muriatic acid and you're ready to go again. If there is some small wear, diamond hone the Cylinders and you're ready to rebuild/disassemble/reassemble, unlike oem loco-sil 1 time use blocks.

jmo

Last edited by allcool; 12-06-2023 at 02:48 PM.
Old 12-06-2023, 02:09 PM
  #58  
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I keep thinking about @911user who got almost 500k out of his M96 without real issues and would still be going if he hadn't passed away in an untimely manner.
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Old 12-06-2023, 02:17 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by Icelia
Space coast... Near you I believe
Maybe consider speaking to Dan at the Werkshop in Melbourne, FL before making any big decisions.

You will get an honest assessment and he is not a shop that is under-booked for work.
Old 12-06-2023, 02:36 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by Icelia
If the bores are out of round, then the rings can't rotate.

.
You might be 100% correct.

The whole debate of how much and when rings do rotate has been argued for many years...


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