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View Poll Results: How to lift the rear for a oil change fastest / cheapest?
Lift the car with two jacks after which use chock and axle stands
4
25.00%
Get race ramps (:-( expensive no other altern. for wide tires)
7
43.75%
Build your own from wood
5
31.25%
Voters: 16. You may not vote on this poll

Race Ramps or other pragmatic solution for oil change?

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Old 01-15-2023, 06:46 AM
  #31  
Vect
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Originally Posted by TexSquirrel
I used to hang my 996 off the edge of my garage because there was a 2 inch drop to the driveway.
When I had a new driveway poured they leveled it to the garage and that was no longer possible.
About the same time I purchased a used BL5000SLX QuickJack off Craigslist.
It's awesome!
I now use it for oil changes because I can also get underneath on a creeper and inspect everything.



I would love to get a set of quick jacks, but here in E.U. the DIY market is either super expensive or things are unavailable, I miss the U.S. for that. As an example a set of race ramps or quick jacks as they must be imported and no equivalent is here is 50% more expensive +/-
Old 01-15-2023, 09:50 AM
  #32  
Marv
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If you can't use a QuickJack, Jackpoint stands are the best and safest alternative on the planet.

https://jackpointjackstands.com

I have a pair I bought long before the QuickJack and they are designed to use the same lift points on the 911 instead of frame members.
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Old 01-15-2023, 04:04 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Vect
Hi there,

Many thanks, however I have seen this YT and the guy says absolutely do not lift by the center crossmember https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ul7U...nel=CarFanatic what are your thoughts on this?
Hi. I've seen this guy's videos and I like him.

The only thing I can guess, is if you look at the cross-member he shows in the video, and the one pictured in the 996 Bentley book, they are quite different. It looks like the 996 cross member has an additional support. In the video the 997 has just the suspension cross member. I have never owned a 997 or the 997 service manual. perhaps someone could shed light on how that service manual recommends lifting the car with a jack/stands.

But for the 996, the method I described and pictured is direct from the service manual and I've done it countless times without bending that cross member support. But, that doesn't mean it is the absolute best way, it may be better to do it the way he describes, I just follow the book.
Old 01-16-2023, 09:12 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by pulpo
Hi. I've seen this guy's videos and I like him.

The only thing I can guess, is if you look at the cross-member he shows in the video, and the one pictured in the 996 Bentley book, they are quite different. It looks like the 996 cross member has an additional support. In the video the 997 has just the suspension cross member. I have never owned a 997 or the 997 service manual. perhaps someone could shed light on how that service manual recommends lifting the car with a jack/stands.

But for the 996, the method I described and pictured is direct from the service manual and I've done it countless times without bending that cross member support. But, that doesn't mean it is the absolute best way, it may be better to do it the way he describes, I just follow the book.
Good point, I trust a book more than a YTber, however I also found another reference for your method. https://drivediy.dozuki.com/Guide/Ho...ion+Install/38 Would be great if someone could clarify.
Old 01-16-2023, 12:30 PM
  #35  
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I have 2 quickjack jackstands I use. Work well and are very, very stable.
Old 01-16-2023, 04:53 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Vect
Awesome, how do you do said calculation? Second question, do you think using jacks on a 3 degree grade is still safe?
Jacks on a 3 degree are safe. Make sure the non-jacked wheels are well chocked.

I actually made a mistake on my first reply about the difference in height. You said 3 degree grade, but I calculated for a 3% grade. The calculation I used was just a percent calculation. 3% of the wheelbase, 2350mm is 70.5mm. 3 degrees is a steeper slope. Trigonometry equation (wheelbase)*sin(angle) = height change. 2350 * sin(3 degrees) = 123mm. You will need a 5 inch ramps to level out the car instead of the 3 inch ramps I mentioned before.

Now, how level does it 'need' to be? I don't know. But the less level, the less old oil will drain... My concrete pad has 37mm drop from front to rear and 10mm slope from side to side. I don't account for this and always need 8-9qts of oil when I fill. Changing every 6 months. I'm not worried.
Old 01-21-2023, 03:17 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by golock911
Jacks on a 3 degree are safe. Make sure the non-jacked wheels are well chocked.

I actually made a mistake on my first reply about the difference in height. You said 3 degree grade, but I calculated for a 3% grade. The calculation I used was just a percent calculation. 3% of the wheelbase, 2350mm is 70.5mm. 3 degrees is a steeper slope. Trigonometry equation (wheelbase)*sin(angle) = height change. 2350 * sin(3 degrees) = 123mm. You will need a 5 inch ramps to level out the car instead of the 3 inch ramps I mentioned before.

Now, how level does it 'need' to be? I don't know. But the less level, the less old oil will drain... My concrete pad has 37mm drop from front to rear and 10mm slope from side to side. I don't account for this and always need 8-9qts of oil when I fill. Changing every 6 months. I'm not worried.
Thanks! :-).

I proceeded with making 4 custom "Carrera" ramps. Using spruce with a height of 9,5cm and widht of 30cm to clear aerokitted cars with 295 section rear tires. Incl. torx screws, glue and boat lacquer which. :-), I might get quick jacks in the future, but a pair of race ramps in Europe is 1000ish USD.




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Old 01-21-2023, 11:52 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Vect
Thanks! :-).

I proceeded with making 4 custom "Carrera" ramps. Using spruce with a height of 9,5cm and widht of 30cm to clear aerokitted cars with 295 section rear tires. Incl. torx screws, glue and boat lacquer which. :-), I might get quick jacks in the future, but a pair of race ramps in Europe is 1000ish USD.

Sweet! Now, will you roll down onto them or drive up onto them?
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Old 01-26-2023, 10:29 PM
  #39  
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I added handles on mine, used that scrapped piece of wood to find the center

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Old 01-27-2023, 01:43 AM
  #40  
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I went with the Quick Jacks as well, prior to that, used a lift bar.

Having said that, I have a pair of lift bars that need a good home.

Greg
Old 01-30-2023, 12:36 AM
  #41  
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Depends on the jack, a good wide heavy duty floor jack is very stable, a narrow "hobbyist" jack not as much.
I don't care as much about jacking as the jack stands. I never work under a car,
not even tire rotation without a couple stands and lowering on to them. I keep the jack (dropped down) under the car in case a stand fails.

My Shop teacher in 1980,,, "Jacks don't apologize for failing."
Old 01-30-2023, 05:19 PM
  #42  
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Default Lift bars




Lift bars, drive up rears on 18 inch pieces of 2x10, one jack point lifts entire side, 20 min tops you are up on four level points of contact,
Old 01-30-2023, 05:54 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by ****** 47



Lift bars, drive up rears on 18 inch pieces of 2x10, one jack point lifts entire side, 20 min tops you are up on four level points of contact,
did you buy these or make them? they look very nice
Old 01-31-2023, 12:26 PM
  #44  
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Liftbars.com is where I found them. Came recommended from others on this forum. Unlike homemade ones, bars have a slight built in angle so the end pins are the only point of contact to the frame and the ends are rounded so they roll freely in the curved axle part of your jack stands.
Old 01-31-2023, 02:08 PM
  #45  
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Default Engine out with lift bars


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