Compress the slave cylinder rod?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Compress the slave cylinder rod?
Just wrapping up my horrible clutch/flywheel/imsb job and I just need to reinstall the slave cylinder.
I left it attached to the hose when I removed it, and now the pin is fully extended
Is there a way to compress it back similar to a brake caliper piston?
Any advice would be appreciated, thanks!
I left it attached to the hose when I removed it, and now the pin is fully extended
Is there a way to compress it back similar to a brake caliper piston?
Any advice would be appreciated, thanks!
Last edited by ChrisI; 07-24-2021 at 03:47 PM.
#2
Rennlist Member
I did this job in January and found it to be fairly easy taking about an hour to install and bleed. From my experience you should remove the cylinder from the hose (plug or pinch the hose), fully compress the cylinder on your bench, then use a wetted dust plug in the inlet so suction will hold it 70% compressed against the spring. This should make it easy to install, just compress enough further to get the two bolts in.
For bleeding, this was easy too. You want the bleed fitting to be at the highest point so that last air bubble will find it's way out. For this you want the car canted so the right rear is low with the front left slightly higher. I think people have trouble bleeding completely because they do it while the rear is still elevated and that last air bubble won't go downhill.
For bleeding, this was easy too. You want the bleed fitting to be at the highest point so that last air bubble will find it's way out. For this you want the car canted so the right rear is low with the front left slightly higher. I think people have trouble bleeding completely because they do it while the rear is still elevated and that last air bubble won't go downhill.
#3
Rennlist Member
I recently did this as well and pushed the pin in against the side of the trans and then used a small vice grip style tool without teeth and clamped the hose so the pin stays retracted, installed without effort after this.
#4
Rennlist Member
I did a transmission swap on my 996 a few weeks ago due to a bad pinion bearing (cheaper to install a used low-mileage transmission than rebuild the old one). Anyway - like you I left the hose attached to the clutch master cylinder. I was able to compress it by hand, basically putting it into position and just pushing firmly towards the rear of the car until the mounting bolt hole lined up to get it threaded. It definitely took a little force, but not impossible.
#5
Rennlist Member
I did a transmission swap on my 996 a few weeks ago due to a bad pinion bearing (cheaper to install a used low-mileage transmission than rebuild the old one). Anyway - like you I left the hose attached to the clutch master cylinder. I was able to compress it by hand, basically putting it into position and just pushing firmly towards the rear of the car until the mounting bolt hole lined up to get it threaded. It definitely took a little force, but not impossible.
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the tips everyone. I was able to release the bleeder port and attach a makeshift catchcan for the fluid. After a ton of attempts I was finally able to get it to compress enough to fit in place. Didn't even need to bleed the system afterwards!
#7
Instructor
I am struggling with this as we speak. Perhaps I’m just weak, I really cannot get this thing to compress enough to get a bolt in. I bled some fluid.
Did you mean that you continuously bled fluid while bolting it in?
Did you mean that you continuously bled fluid while bolting it in?
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#8
Nordschleife Master
Lower the trans some so u can get some leverage on it. Bleading fluid wont help unless u leave the screw open while u push on iy and start the bolts. Then u will have to re-blead the clutch hydros because u will loose too much fluid.