suspension refresh
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
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there was a vendor that was selling a complete suspension refresh kit, so you didn't have to order the parts separately - control arms, bushings, etc
anybody know what vendor that was?
does it even make sense to order them that way or are you better off picking separate pieces individually?
my thinking is a complete kit would be better because i'm sure i would forget something and be another week or 2 with the car on jack stands waiting for the part i forgot to order
is there a complete list of needed parts if i go the separate parts route?
thanks
anybody know what vendor that was?
does it even make sense to order them that way or are you better off picking separate pieces individually?
my thinking is a complete kit would be better because i'm sure i would forget something and be another week or 2 with the car on jack stands waiting for the part i forgot to order
is there a complete list of needed parts if i go the separate parts route?
thanks
#2
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
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I would source separately if it is cheaper.
4 coffin arms, 4 control arm links, 4 upper rear control arms, 2 toe arms, 4 sway bar bushings, Feal coilovers.
That would replace everything. (you might also consider inner and outer tie rod ends)
I'm very happy with how my car handles now.
It's not the lowest, but that's by choice.
4 coffin arms, 4 control arm links, 4 upper rear control arms, 2 toe arms, 4 sway bar bushings, Feal coilovers.
That would replace everything. (you might also consider inner and outer tie rod ends)
I'm very happy with how my car handles now.
It's not the lowest, but that's by choice.
The following 3 users liked this post by TexSquirrel:
#3
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I would source separately if it is cheaper.
4 coffin arms, 4 control arm links, 4 upper rear control arms, 2 toe arms, 4 sway bar bushings, Feal coilovers.
That would replace everything. (you might also consider inner and outer tie rod ends)
I'm very happy with how my car handles now.
It's not the lowest, but that's by choice.
4 coffin arms, 4 control arm links, 4 upper rear control arms, 2 toe arms, 4 sway bar bushings, Feal coilovers.
That would replace everything. (you might also consider inner and outer tie rod ends)
I'm very happy with how my car handles now.
It's not the lowest, but that's by choice.
I'm hoping to keep it at stock height (non ROW) with the Feals.
#4
RL Community Team
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I have adjustable control arms that I‘ll be installing soon.
At the moment I have non adjustable.
I’m going to install them when I’m ready to get it aligned and have them set them for street driving.
Then I can increase camber for the track by adding spacers, and go back to stock afterwards.
At the moment I have non adjustable.
I’m going to install them when I’m ready to get it aligned and have them set them for street driving.
Then I can increase camber for the track by adding spacers, and go back to stock afterwards.
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jobyt (01-07-2021)
#5
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https://www.elephantracing.com/996-9...nsion-builder/
I haven't used these, nor really inspected the contents, but I did run across them sold as complete package options.
They seem really expensive to me.
I haven't used these, nor really inspected the contents, but I did run across them sold as complete package options.
They seem really expensive to me.
#6
Nordschleife Master
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Fcp euro has kits for the front and rear suspension links. The parts r TRW brand and r priced reasonably.
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#8
Rennlist Member
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The FCP kit is reasonable and if you keep your car long enough, you can replace the components you wear out for shipping costs. A little shopping around at the usual stores will get you everything for 10+% less, however. Meyle, TRW and OE mix.
jobyt - If you stay US ride height, you do not need the adjustable control arms. The stock suspension will have enough negative camber. The Feals will dial in nicely. If you want to adjust out some understeer, try an adjustable rear sway...cheaper and easier to fiddle with than front camber. I just bought some new GT3 coffins with Tarett OE-type ends and DemonSpeed shims for $870, so adjustables aren’t cheap. But you can get an Eibach adjustable rear sway for $250 or less. Something to ponder.
jobyt - If you stay US ride height, you do not need the adjustable control arms. The stock suspension will have enough negative camber. The Feals will dial in nicely. If you want to adjust out some understeer, try an adjustable rear sway...cheaper and easier to fiddle with than front camber. I just bought some new GT3 coffins with Tarett OE-type ends and DemonSpeed shims for $870, so adjustables aren’t cheap. But you can get an Eibach adjustable rear sway for $250 or less. Something to ponder.
Last edited by hatchetf15; 01-07-2021 at 09:52 PM.
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jobyt (01-08-2021)
#9
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I would source separately if it is cheaper.
4 coffin arms, 4 control arm links, 4 upper rear control arms, 2 toe arms, 4 sway bar bushings, Feal coilovers.
That would replace everything. (you might also consider inner and outer tie rod ends)
I'm very happy with how my car handles now.
It's not the lowest, but that's by choice.
4 coffin arms, 4 control arm links, 4 upper rear control arms, 2 toe arms, 4 sway bar bushings, Feal coilovers.
That would replace everything. (you might also consider inner and outer tie rod ends)
I'm very happy with how my car handles now.
It's not the lowest, but that's by choice.
#10
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
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My car feels pretty good with Feal 441 and new rear GT3 LCA, but I'm considering replacing all the other arms. There's nothing "wrong" with my car now, but I want to see if I can freshen up the ride. I would go polyurethane, but I have them on another car's upgraded sway bar and the squeaking during the winter annoys me. Can you give a little more input on the before and after feel of your car? Was the suspension shot before you fixed it? How much better is it now?
I had a squeaky coffin arm and when I went to replace it I found the control arm links were loosy-goosy.
I replaced the front coffin arms with Üro ones and the control arm links with EPS polyurethane ones.
I was extremely happy with how my car felt afterwards.
I decided to do the same in the rear, and I replaced the upper rear control arms with standard ones.
It feels great now.
I now have a set of mono ball rear upper control arms to install when I install my 997 GT3 lower control arms in the front.
#11
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My car felt pretty good before I started replacing my control arms.
I had a squeaky coffin arm and when I went to replace it I found the control arm links were loosy-goosy.
I replaced the front coffin arms with Üro ones and the control arm links with EPS polyurethane ones.
I was extremely happy with how my car felt afterwards.
I decided to do the same in the rear, and I replaced the upper rear control arms with standard ones.
It feels great now.
I now have a set of mono ball rear upper control arms to install when I install my 997 GT3 lower control arms in the front.
I had a squeaky coffin arm and when I went to replace it I found the control arm links were loosy-goosy.
I replaced the front coffin arms with Üro ones and the control arm links with EPS polyurethane ones.
I was extremely happy with how my car felt afterwards.
I decided to do the same in the rear, and I replaced the upper rear control arms with standard ones.
It feels great now.
I now have a set of mono ball rear upper control arms to install when I install my 997 GT3 lower control arms in the front.
#12
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
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The steering feel is MUCH tighter.
I can't say exactly what is the best cause for the feel as I've done a lot to the car, but...
I think the EPS "tuning forks" help a lot.
Also the smaller MOMO Prototipo steering wheel helps.
New "coffin arms" helped too.
The Feal coil overs allow for "tuning" the rebound to my liking.
I'm really happy with the steering feel.
Now I just want to add some adjustability for the track and I want to improve the brake some.(Even though I'm pretty happy with my current setup)
I'll be installing bigger brakes(350mm rotors in front) this week and will post about them soon.
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barbancourt (01-08-2021)
#13
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Yes, the control arm links are also called tuning forks by some.
The steering feel is MUCH tighter.
I can't say exactly what is the best cause for the feel as I've done a lot to the car, but...
I think the EPS "tuning forks" help a lot.
Also the smaller MOMO Prototipo steering wheel helps.
New "coffin arms" helped too.
The Feal coil overs allow for "tuning" the rebound to my liking.
I'm really happy with the steering feel.
Now I just want to add some adjustability for the track and I want to improve the brake some.(Even though I'm pretty happy with my current setup)
I'll be installing bigger brakes(350mm rotors in front) this week and will post about them soon.
The steering feel is MUCH tighter.
I can't say exactly what is the best cause for the feel as I've done a lot to the car, but...
I think the EPS "tuning forks" help a lot.
Also the smaller MOMO Prototipo steering wheel helps.
New "coffin arms" helped too.
The Feal coil overs allow for "tuning" the rebound to my liking.
I'm really happy with the steering feel.
Now I just want to add some adjustability for the track and I want to improve the brake some.(Even though I'm pretty happy with my current setup)
I'll be installing bigger brakes(350mm rotors in front) this week and will post about them soon.
Last edited by barbancourt; 01-08-2021 at 09:17 PM.
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TexSquirrel (01-09-2021)
#14
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I have adjustable control arms that I‘ll be installing soon.
At the moment I have non adjustable.
I’m going to install them when I’m ready to get it aligned and have them set them for street driving.
Then I can increase camber for the track by adding spacers, and go back to stock afterwards.
At the moment I have non adjustable.
I’m going to install them when I’m ready to get it aligned and have them set them for street driving.
Then I can increase camber for the track by adding spacers, and go back to stock afterwards.
#15
RL Community Team
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I’ll have to install them first and do some experimenting.
I currently have 1mm, 3mm, and 7mm shims, but may pick up some more to play with.
I have manual alignment gauges(toe/caster/camber) so once I have my car aligned I can measure the differences I make by adding shims.