I searched but couldn't find how others used the RMS tools available from Chris or other plastic machined tools for RMS install. I have both Chris' 3D printed one and a delrin tool that I was given. The stock bolts that go into the crankshaft end aren't long enough to use to start the RMS onto the shaft. The blue plastic protector in the RMS appears to fit (albeit very tight) into the inner recess of the tool. So did you buy longer bolts and use the blue plastic liner to center the RMS on the tool and crank it into get it started? The recess in the tool isn't deep enough to allow you to keep the blue plastic liner in while fully seating the RMS but it appears you could use it to get is started, take off the tool and remove the plastic liner and then seat the rms to the full depth. Or take the plastic liner out altogether (obviously being careful to not touch the inside)? I tried the latter but the inner ridges of the seal weren't going on the shaft the same way causing the seal to look bunched up when I first tried to get the RMS started by hand using the tool to push it on. i started the seal crooked and as I cranked the bolts, it just kept pushing it in crooked rather than levelling it out so I'm pulling that seal out and trying again.

Long winded way of please share the procedure you used to get the RMS installed with these aftermarket tools.

Thanks

 

You take off the blue seal protector and use the stock bolts

 

 

Bill, Stock bolts will not reach the thread points without forcing the RMS onto the shaft by hand first. When i tried the first time my engine was on a stand so access was limited. It's on a lift table now so I have good access to line it up better. So maybe starting by hand works as long as you get it reasonably straight by hand and then use the bolts to push it in and straighten out any slight angle imperfections? I do know for a fact that if you are not pushing onto the shaft and not even to a large enough degree , it will just continue pushing it on uneven as you tighten the bolts. Like I said, could be an angle thing that if you get off far enough it won't straighten. That's why I was just going to buy longer bolts from the hardware store to get it started onto the shaft by small turns on the bolts.

B3Freak. Yes as the video shows its a no brainer using the factory tool. I may end up borrowing one from LN just to feel confident. My question is on the after market ones many users have used successfully. It's such a simple task that is a real pain if you don't do it right the first time and it starts leaking once you have it installed.

 

From working with Jake Raby, he suggests uses the proper tool for this job or it can cause you heartache down the road when the RMS starts to leak because of a botched install. The RMS must be seated squarely and at the proper depth. The blue strip, while it may seem insignificant, protects the RMS inner seal characteristics. If you remove it before installation, it can get dirty or damaged, especially if you have to pull it back out again because you can't get it to install correctly. That would risk jeopardizing the sealing properties. I recommend renting the R&S tool from LN Engineering.

Or, if you can purchase it and resell later...

https://lnengineering.com/products/t...8-m96-m97.html