When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Put about a 1000 miles on the 996 since the beginning of the year - I sure missed driving this car! As the car climbs in miles, I'm expecting and looking for signs of wear and tear. (I look for any excuse to buy tools and stuff ). After today's drive, I noticed the idle slightly fluctuating. I plugged in my durametric tool and found the idle to be fluctuating between 740 and 800rpm with the AC off. It's something I noticed after I reversed into my garage and could hear the change in exhaust note. It's been a while since I changed spark plugs, cleaned the throttle body, etc. so I'm probably due for some maintenance at 145k. I have a bunch of parts accumulating that I need to get to anyways. With all this talk of AOS going on in the forums, it's probably time I invest in a manometer to check the health of my AOS. I've never had a hard to remove oil cap, or sooty tail pipe, so I haven't had reason to believe my AOS has failed ..yet. I do recall seeing a light film of oil in the intake runners when I serviced my starter, so chances are it's beginning to fail. I'll know for sure soon.
Hey man, you need to keep a close eye on those deviations. Even though they're not 6˚ of deviation between both banks. You'll notice both are in the negative. That points to wear.
Hey man, you need to keep a close eye on those deviations. Even though they're not 6˚ of deviation between both banks. You'll notice both are in the negative. That points to wear.
Absolutely. This vehicle got a replacement motor from Porsche in 08, so I probably have some additional time compared to other 01's for when I'll be due to change out pads. I've been inspecting the filters every oil change for any cam pad material; so far haven't found any chunks. I plan on dropping the sump pan next oil change since the joint is starting to weep.
Last edited by sweet victory; 09-21-2020 at 02:01 AM.
Trying out Mac's new RBRT hex bit. It's unfortunate Stanley Black & Decker decided to offshore this product line to Taiwan, but oh well. It's available through it's subsidiaries Mac, Proto, and Facom. The fit and finish is great, and while originally designed to removed stripped fasteners, it's also advertised to avoid stripping fasteners. Picture below shows just how tight it fits. You can see my sump is starting to seep oil, and with my cam deviations boardline out of tolerance, I wanted to drop the sump plate and see how much plastic was in there. (Spoiler alert...a decent amount)
In case anyone wondered...yes. I still love having the Danmar M6.
First up is the oil filter inspection. This is my first filter cut open since trying out Liqui Moly. All was well...not much to see here.
Here's what the sump plate looks like after being dropped. I soaked up some oil with a rag to give you guys a better view. If you guys decide to drop the sump plate, I highly recommend removing the oil pick up tube and the baffle. You will find equal amounts hiding in corners and the filter screen.
Here is everything that was recovered. I had to use tweezers to remove them from the filter screen; they were stuck in there pretty good. Between this and my cam shaft deviation, I'll definitely be planning to drop the motor and replacing the vario cam pads. Will probably tackle a bunch of other things when the motor/trans gets dropped. Timing is up in the air, as I'm expecting to move in the near future.
The previous owner bottomed out the rear sump plate on something and it's had a slow sweep since I've owned it. It eventually got worse, so decided to see if this is something that could be fixed by resealing it or if it'd need replacement. I inspected the flatness at work on a calibrated surface plate using feeler gauges. I was able to fit a .010" shim. I'm not sure what the flatness tolerance is, but threw it back on to see if it'd hold. If it leaks again, I'll probably spring for the FVD motorsport oil sump/baffle kit. I used Drei Bond1209 to reseal it, and I didn't care for it. Since it's transparent, it's a bit difficult to gauge how thick your film is.
After that was back together, I moved to the trans. Recently picked up the Assenmacher Specialty Tools trans filler, and it's super handy. Very nice quality and made in the USA. Filling trans fluid with Redline 75W90NS. This has no friction modifiers for LSD's, so I'm eager to see how this feels compared to the Motul I previously had in the transmission.
Trying out Mac's new RBRT hex bit. It's unfortunate Stanley Black & Decker decided to offshore this product line to Taiwan, but oh well. It's available through it's subsidiaries Mac, Proto, and Facom. The fit and finish is great, and while originally designed to removed stripped fasteners, it's also advertised to avoid stripping fasteners. Picture below shows just how tight it fits. You can see my sump is starting to seep oil, and with my cam deviations boardline out of tolerance, I wanted to drop the sump plate and see how much plastic was in there. (Spoiler alert...a decent amount)
Did you get just the one, or an entire set?
Ive been thinking about getting a set, but most of the would go unused.
I may just buy the more commonly used sizes.
Did you get just the one, or an entire set?
Ive been thinking about getting a set, but most of the would go unused.
I may just buy the more commonly used sizes.
I just got the 8mm to try out. I think I'll be picking up the 7pc extractor set, but undecided on a torx/hex set. I need a SIR/Baum Timing Kit more than I need more bit sockets. Already have SO torx and hex bit sets and I don't have issues with rust in SoCal.
Hope to hear how the Redline trans oil worked out for you, been using redline 5w50 oil for a while now in the engine, going to do trans next.
Put a few miles on it. It's butter smooth again, 2-3 and 3-2 are back to feeling as they should.
It also looks like the sump plate is still weeping. I don't want to lap this thing in flat and mess with it anymore. Just going to splurge for the FVD sump plate.
I have been using permatex great stuff on my pan and its 100% sealing it up. My motor took a hit when the po was on the track. I bought the car as a roller and welded up the flange. Needless to say the sump pan mounting flange is not flat, nor is the t-stat flang. The great stuff has worked well in both. Also recently put the 2qt ln pan on and it sealed that up after the locktight stuff allowed a leak.
I have been using permatex great stuff on my pan and its 100% sealing it up. My motor took a hit when the po was on the track. I bought the car as a roller and welded up the flange. Needless to say the sump pan mounting flange is not flat, nor is the t-stat flang. The great stuff has worked well in both. Also recently put the 2qt ln pan on and it sealed that up after the locktight stuff allowed a leak.
Wow! Props for keeping that motor going! Apart of me is looking for an excuse to buy the FVD anyways. I ordered the kit, which already comes with the Loctite 5900 sealant. Is that what leaked on you?
Wow! Props for keeping that motor going! Apart of me is looking for an excuse to buy the FVD anyways. I ordered the kit, which already comes with the Loctite 5900 sealant. Is that what leaked on you?
now that i think about it im not sure what i used first. It was not the locktight because the tube that came with the ln kit was hard as a rock. I must have used some sort of permatex that i had, probably the regular black that i use on diff covers.
now that i think about it im not sure what i used first. It was not the locktight because the tube that came with the ln kit was hard as a rock. I must have used some sort of permatex that i had, probably the regular black that i use on diff covers.
If the loctite comes in expired/hard, I'll probably spring for the Permatex Great stuff. I'm $50+ into sealants so far...hope the loctite works.
09-20-2020, 05:43 PM
). After today's drive, I noticed the idle slightly fluctuating. I plugged in my durametric tool and found the idle to be fluctuating between 740 and 800rpm with the AC off. It's something I noticed after I reversed into my garage and could hear the change in exhaust note. It's been a while since I changed spark plugs, cleaned the throttle body, etc. so I'm probably due for some maintenance at 145k. I have a bunch of parts accumulating that I need to get to anyways. With all this talk of AOS going on in the forums, it's probably time I invest in a manometer to check the health of my AOS. I've never had a hard to remove oil cap, or sooty tail pipe, so I haven't had reason to believe my AOS has failed ..yet. I do recall seeing a light film of oil in the intake runners when I serviced my starter, so chances are it's beginning to fail. I'll know for sure soon.
