Sweet Victory's 2001 C2 Aero
01-17-2020, 11:09 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
The previous owner was an enthusiast and PCA member; good traits to look for in a seller.
Yeah...don't do that. In school, we learned about complex and imaginary numbers. I guess in marriage, you learn the stretch the definition of an imaginary number. You mean that $1.5k exhaust, right?
Yeah...don't do that. In school, we learned about complex and imaginary numbers. I guess in marriage, you learn the stretch the definition of an imaginary number. You mean that $1.5k exhaust, right?
You are correct , I must of added wrong, thanks
01-20-2020, 02:40 AM
#17
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Parts have been slowly coming in the mail. Wondering if I should also just go ahead and get ignition coils as well? They're the previous revision, and I don't have any record showing they have ever been replaced.
01-24-2020, 03:00 AM
#18
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Got my Dwyer 475 Mark III in the mail earlier this week. Still had the calibration sticker on the back and scored it lightly used for $35! Very nice, made in USA tool. I usually drive my 996 to work on Fridays so I'll finally be able to check the health of my AOS. I've read a failing AOS can cause some idle flutter - it would make sense as it would introduce a vacuum leak if the diaphram begins to fail. I also bought a new oil filler cap. I filled the center section of the cap with a Lord structural epoxy. After curing, I drilled and tapped a 1/4" NPT port for the hose barb fitting.
01-27-2020, 10:18 PM
#19
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
01.26.2020 | 144404
This weekend I started working on what I thought would be a bad wheel bearing. After getting brake caliper off, I really didn't feel anything wrong with the bearing. When the wheel was on, I could feel some play by grabbing the wheel at the 12 and 6 o clock position and trying to wiggle it. After some additional investigation, it turns out the play is coming from the coil over mount. I don't have that part, so I put everything back together and prepped to move to the back of the car.
I like to make sure any mating surfaces are clean before they go back together. There was a bit of crud between the caliper and upright faces.
Very thin coat of anti seize to help the next guy out....me.
No anti seize on the caliper bolt, only a dab of blue loctite.
The next item on the to do list were the spark plug tubes. The driver side of the engine was bone dry (replaced by PO many years ago), but the passenger side of the engine shows some oil seepage below the spark plug tubes. Here is the removed assembly. At a glance, the "old style" coil packs looked okay and I considered reusing them. The apron/boot on a few of them had been partially or complete torn off.
Used the transom plug method for removal. It took 2 or 3 tries to get the tubes to come out on the passenger side.
I have a philosophy of "cleaning to inspect," and after giving them a good wipe down, I will not be unable to reuse any of them. They all had a crack in the same position. I won't post 6 picture of identical coil packs, but here is a close of of the worse one. You can clearly see the crack running at least 50% of the length of the body.
Here's a close up of the spark plugs, starting with cylinder 1 on the left:
Before I prepped the spark plug tubes for assembly, I noticed quite a bit of flashing in the o ring glands. A little annoying given that I paid a little extra for the genuine porsche brand. Took care of the flashing with a file.
All prepped for assembly:
Here is what I use to start spark plugs. I know you can just use an end cut of tubing of start the spark plug, but I don't have any. The Thexton set is like $7 for two different lengths. I also use an aerospace grade anti size specifically for this application. No worries of "insulating" the spark plug, as this is a conductive compound. After installing, they get torqued to 21ftlbs-ish.
- Began wheel bearing replacement - found bearing is fine. Strut mounts are the issue.
- Replaced Spark Plug Tubes & O Rings
- Replaced Spark Plugs
- Inspected Coil Packs
This weekend I started working on what I thought would be a bad wheel bearing. After getting brake caliper off, I really didn't feel anything wrong with the bearing. When the wheel was on, I could feel some play by grabbing the wheel at the 12 and 6 o clock position and trying to wiggle it. After some additional investigation, it turns out the play is coming from the coil over mount. I don't have that part, so I put everything back together and prepped to move to the back of the car.
I like to make sure any mating surfaces are clean before they go back together. There was a bit of crud between the caliper and upright faces.
Very thin coat of anti seize to help the next guy out....me.
No anti seize on the caliper bolt, only a dab of blue loctite.The next item on the to do list were the spark plug tubes. The driver side of the engine was bone dry (replaced by PO many years ago), but the passenger side of the engine shows some oil seepage below the spark plug tubes. Here is the removed assembly. At a glance, the "old style" coil packs looked okay and I considered reusing them. The apron/boot on a few of them had been partially or complete torn off.
Used the transom plug method for removal. It took 2 or 3 tries to get the tubes to come out on the passenger side.
I have a philosophy of "cleaning to inspect," and after giving them a good wipe down, I will not be unable to reuse any of them. They all had a crack in the same position. I won't post 6 picture of identical coil packs, but here is a close of of the worse one. You can clearly see the crack running at least 50% of the length of the body.
Here's a close up of the spark plugs, starting with cylinder 1 on the left:
Before I prepped the spark plug tubes for assembly, I noticed quite a bit of flashing in the o ring glands. A little annoying given that I paid a little extra for the genuine porsche brand. Took care of the flashing with a file.
All prepped for assembly:
Here is what I use to start spark plugs. I know you can just use an end cut of tubing of start the spark plug, but I don't have any. The Thexton set is like $7 for two different lengths. I also use an aerospace grade anti size specifically for this application. No worries of "insulating" the spark plug, as this is a conductive compound. After installing, they get torqued to 21ftlbs-ish.
Last edited by sweet victory; 02-02-2020 at 05:37 AM.
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FCP Euro (02-05-2020)
02-04-2020, 02:27 AM
#20
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
02.03.2020 | 144404
Tried out a new vendor, FCP Euro. Price was better than Pelican, and Warehouse33 didn't have the Beru coilpacks. Their lifetime warranty was also very appealing. Some of their pricing is really good, and some of it is bazzar. Compare Bosch injectors on Pelican vs FCP - very stark difference, so it still pays to price shop. (IIRC Pelican had the same injectors for something like $50 less)
Treated the contact points with a light film of 3M Silicone Paste. Keep in mind dielectric grease/silicone paste is non conductive; do not place this where you need to maintain continuity. Use sparingly and apply where you don't want the rubber to "fuse" to what it's touching over time. I also applied a light film where the coil pack connector seal slides in the housing. This makes installation and removal easy, and less chances of snapping old plastic clips.
Bank 1 coil packs installed:
Bank 2 coil packs installed:
- Installed 6 New Beru Coil Packs
Tried out a new vendor, FCP Euro. Price was better than Pelican, and Warehouse33 didn't have the Beru coilpacks. Their lifetime warranty was also very appealing. Some of their pricing is really good, and some of it is bazzar. Compare Bosch injectors on Pelican vs FCP - very stark difference, so it still pays to price shop. (IIRC Pelican had the same injectors for something like $50 less)
Treated the contact points with a light film of 3M Silicone Paste. Keep in mind dielectric grease/silicone paste is non conductive; do not place this where you need to maintain continuity. Use sparingly and apply where you don't want the rubber to "fuse" to what it's touching over time. I also applied a light film where the coil pack connector seal slides in the housing. This makes installation and removal easy, and less chances of snapping old plastic clips.
Bank 1 coil packs installed:
Bank 2 coil packs installed:
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Ratchet1025 (09-07-2020)
02-29-2020, 05:20 PM
#21
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Took this photos for the interior modification thread, but I noticed how sideways that thread is going, so just decided to throw into my thread instead.
One of the first modifications I did after buying the car in 2015 was installing an OEM leather center console. It's held up spectacularly since I've had it, and definitely elevates the interior. I've also really enjoyed the Function First aluminum ****; I prefer the solid feel over the hollow oem ****. Hidden under there is a function first shifter with their upgrade cables. This combination of mods have been hands down my favorite tweaks to the car. Second would be the Sony XAV-AX100. The trim and ***** are all flat black and it has a minimalist design, so it easily blends into the interior. Cannot stand head units with flashly leds and chrome bezels.
One of the first modifications I did after buying the car in 2015 was installing an OEM leather center console. It's held up spectacularly since I've had it, and definitely elevates the interior. I've also really enjoyed the Function First aluminum ****; I prefer the solid feel over the hollow oem ****. Hidden under there is a function first shifter with their upgrade cables. This combination of mods have been hands down my favorite tweaks to the car. Second would be the Sony XAV-AX100. The trim and ***** are all flat black and it has a minimalist design, so it easily blends into the interior. Cannot stand head units with flashly leds and chrome bezels.
02-29-2020, 06:22 PM
#22
Three Wheelin'
That center console is a nice touch, seems less "cheap" and I noticed it before even reading that is what you did here. Also looking at this reminds me I need to do plugs and inspect my coils, getting a shimmy at idle but the job seems like a pain for routine maintenance.
02-29-2020, 06:32 PM
#23
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
That center console is a nice touch, seems less "cheap" and I noticed it before even reading that is what you did here. Also looking at this reminds me I need to do plugs and inspect my coils, getting a shimmy at idle but the job seems like a pain for routine maintenance.
I left one aspect of the coil plug job off the post. I wanted to drive it around and play with it more before sharing here. If you get the 997 coil packs, your head shield cover will not seat correctly on the valve covers. It will hit the top of the coil. I ended up replacing the screw with a stud, threaded spacer, and nut. Going to swap the nut to one with nylock insets, and then I will share the results here. I think the stud with a threaded spacer is far less finicky than trying to reinstall the heat shield with a spacer and bolt.
03-08-2020, 03:03 AM
#24
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
03.06.2020 | 144529
This has been on my wish list for a while, and finally got around to ordering and installing wheel studs. I went with the 71mm "bullet nose race studs" and "Porsche PRO Series Nuts" from Apex Competition. The 71mm stud turned out to be perfect for my application as I was shooting for only 2-3 threads of stick out. Anymore is just redundant weight, since these have a 22mm nose.
Here are the crusty OEM lug bolts I've been putting up with for a while. I've wire wheeled them clean once before in the past.
Before just throwing the studs in there, I gave the spindle a good dousing of brake clean to remove any "junk" that might be in the threads, and followed up with a cleaning tap. This ensures the blue loctite properly does its thing.
And here is one wheel all buttoned up. Rinse and repeat three more times.
- Installed Bullet Nose Race Stud Conversion (Apex Competition Systems)
This has been on my wish list for a while, and finally got around to ordering and installing wheel studs. I went with the 71mm "bullet nose race studs" and "Porsche PRO Series Nuts" from Apex Competition. The 71mm stud turned out to be perfect for my application as I was shooting for only 2-3 threads of stick out. Anymore is just redundant weight, since these have a 22mm nose.
Here are the crusty OEM lug bolts I've been putting up with for a while. I've wire wheeled them clean once before in the past.
Before just throwing the studs in there, I gave the spindle a good dousing of brake clean to remove any "junk" that might be in the threads, and followed up with a cleaning tap. This ensures the blue loctite properly does its thing.
And here is one wheel all buttoned up. Rinse and repeat three more times.
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04-28-2020, 11:42 AM
#25
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
04.25.2020 | 144911
Having 2 3rd brake lights has been annoying me for a little while. I could live with it, but knew that at some point, I would install a delete kit. The Getty Design GT2 wing has a 3rd brake light on the decklid/wing assembly, as seen below:
I finally got that resolved with a turn key, delete plate from Bumper Plugs. Sent some money, and a color matched part Porsche part showed up at my door. Once I removed the 3rd brake light, I removed the electrical connector and preserved the ends of the wires with adhesive lined marine grade shrink tube. I did not want the connector bouncing and making noise back there, so some tesa tape was also used. If I ever need to reinstall the light, I can repin the wires and have the connect back on in a few minutes. The only OEM alternative to this is to replace the entire sheet metal panel between the decklid and rear glass, but this part is spot welded in. All in all, I'm very pleased with the quality and fit/finish of the part. What you would pay for the Porsche part and have it painted, the $200 is very reasonable, especially when compared to the cost of replacing that panel.
Before
After
- Installed 3rd Brake Light Delete
Having 2 3rd brake lights has been annoying me for a little while. I could live with it, but knew that at some point, I would install a delete kit. The Getty Design GT2 wing has a 3rd brake light on the decklid/wing assembly, as seen below:
I finally got that resolved with a turn key, delete plate from Bumper Plugs. Sent some money, and a color matched part Porsche part showed up at my door. Once I removed the 3rd brake light, I removed the electrical connector and preserved the ends of the wires with adhesive lined marine grade shrink tube. I did not want the connector bouncing and making noise back there, so some tesa tape was also used. If I ever need to reinstall the light, I can repin the wires and have the connect back on in a few minutes. The only OEM alternative to this is to replace the entire sheet metal panel between the decklid and rear glass, but this part is spot welded in. All in all, I'm very pleased with the quality and fit/finish of the part. What you would pay for the Porsche part and have it painted, the $200 is very reasonable, especially when compared to the cost of replacing that panel.
Before
After
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09-05-2020, 07:11 PM
#26
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Having to not update this thread for such a long period of time is a good thing. I like being able to just enjoy driving the car. 
Got some upcoming maintenance: fluids and filters
Got some upcoming maintenance: fluids and filters
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09-06-2020, 12:13 PM
#28
Race Car
Hey SV, Are those CCW C10's ?
Can you throw up some more pics and specs...
Can you throw up some more pics and specs...
09-07-2020, 09:14 PM
#29
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Close, these are CCW C14's. I'll take some updated pics after next car wash.
Wheel Specs:
Front:
18x9ET44.5mm
245/40/18
Rear:
18x11ET60.5mm
315/30/18
Last edited by sweet victory; 06-17-2021 at 01:56 AM.
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EVOMMM (05-04-2021)
09-20-2020, 04:26 PM
#30
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
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