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What is a "mechatronics" engineer? Do you have dual degrees in mechanical and electrical engineering?
might as well be, but I believe it's a degree in itself. Most of my friends who have that focus, are working in automation with machines that build vehicles.
might as well be, but I believe it's a degree in itself. Most of my friends who have that focus, are working in automation with machines that build vehicles.
Never heard of it before. But, that doesn't mean much these days...lol
Long evening last night, replacing the front roll bar bushings. When I bought the car I looked at them and poked at them with screw driver. There was a soft surface and a lot of 'gunk' so I assumed they where disintegrating.
When I got them out it turned out someone had tried to lubricate them with a very thick black grease, the bushings them self were still solid sans some wear on the inside. Anyway, new bushings in, looks cool. All brackets, screws and surrounding plastic cleaned. It's nice to work on a Porsche, everything comes apart so easy since it's been carefully put together with thread locker and correct torque.
Two questions came to mind putting the wheel arc liner back. Aft of the wheel there is a fixation point at the bottom, but the hole on the backside is too far back for the plastic clip to attach. Is there supposed to be a special fastner there? Second, the foam seals are definitely dead. Anyone have a good tip what to use? I guess some kind of door sealing strip?
Continued working on the car today. Started on the back getting the bumper off to access the silencers and spark plugs + coils.
The disassembly was quite straight forward, undo a few bolts an off came the silencers. I wonder how much all the dirt and grime that's on the car weight? There is a pile of dust on the floor. Anyway, the 'old' silencers that came off is from Dansk and I'm replacing them because they are just straight annoying. They are really loud but not in a good way.
After taking them off I made the 'scream test' thru them and compared to my new OEM style. The Dansk I think are just empty boxes, there is close to no silencing. When taping them with a finger the make the same sound like a empty can. The new once make more of a 'thud' noise and they really silence when screaming thru them.
After getting them off I continued taking the coil packs out one after the other. And....no less than all have cracks in them. So, I need to get new once. After a quick look on the internet there seams to be a lot of different brands and manufacturer for these. Anyone have good experience with one or the other?
The coils are going in the bin, the car will not be a daily driver so I will never put these back on. After 19 years and 170kkm they have done their job.
A set of 6 NGK coils is about 200€, not too bad.
Yesterday evening I started CADing an oil filter socket but I ran out of printing filament so will have to wait a week or so to print.
Edit: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3968493
The first prototype of the fan controller have been built and evaluated. Main problem is heat, it gets way too hot. The problem is that the MOSFET isn't turning on/off quick enough so I need to add a small IC that will drive it. I was hoping it could do without a driver....but no.
I was also scratching my head if it might be better to put a central controller(for both fans) in the frunk instead of having it exposed to the elements where it is right now.
Last edited by Nick_L; 11-10-2019 at 04:38 PM.
Reason: added 3D link
Parts are slowly arriving. This week the new coolers has arrived and I've ordered a new AOS (Air Oil Separator), spark plug tubes and oil cooler. The coolers was the cheapes I found on ebay. I haven't checked the fitting yet. The finish is OK, not beautiful but functional. You can't really see them when they are on the car so looks isn't that important.
Well, I was checking the spark plugs a few days ago and noticed there was oil in the tubes. The business end of the plugs them self looked excellent. I know the previous owner change one tube because it was leaking so I figured the others are on their way out. A little preventive maintenance. I also note there was a lot of oil (looks fresh) just behind the tubes where the screw driver is pointing (see picture). Behind there is a T-connection (My car was built in august 2000 and have this type of valve...it doesnt show up on the mk1 996 drawings, which just have a bend, but only boxsters drawings) with a valve and a tube(which goes to the AOS) which I tracked down to be an overpressure valve. Why is there oil on the outside of that? After scratching my head I figured the AOS is not creating the vacuum it's supposed to do which causes an overpressure in the heads. This also exaggerate oil leak in the spark plug tubes since there is a positive pressure pushing it out.
So, I'm replacing the AOS and cleaning out the tubes + intake. It requires a lot of work to get to so I'm doing the oil cooler at the same time, preventive maintenance.
Then I will clean the engine block which is dirty from oil. This way I will easily see when oil/fluid is leaking in the future.
While I'm waiting for parts I started with the interior. I started removing the forward center console and then the rest of the console which covers gear lever and hand brake.
Some of my spendings was then refunded! I found no less then 11€ in coins underneath there, win. 100g of coins was removed, more performance. The fwd center console was 1.6kg. The main center console is 2kg.
The gear lever is really sloppy as the bushings are worn out and the top is scratched really ugly (it has the silver in-lay same as hand brake). Not sure which direction to take on that.
The original stereo (cdr-22 I think) went out, 1.5kg. And so did the amplifier in the frunk, 1kg. And the big speakers in the back, 0.4kg per side. I will only keep the speakers in the dash and they will be connected to a bluetooth amplifier(less then 100g weight), all music/sound will be over bluetooth, nothing visible in the cabin. The hole that the stereo leaves will be filled with a storage box, 3€ from eBay.
I write about the weights, it's for my own reference, I'm not chasing the ultimate low weight, just less weight than stock. The philosophy of the car is 'Driver focused and beautiful, with a touch of comfort'.
I like the airy feeling inside after removing the consoles. It also brings(some) the nice classic 911 straight lines back. Something I like about the early 911 is the outside is soft and sweeping while the inside is more straight lines, designed with a ruler. Maybe I will build my own center console (the one that covers the hand brake and gear lever) which is more straight, level and minimalistic.
I've spent most of the day researching the purpose and function of the AOS. Put shortly it reduces the over-pressure inside the engine and recirculates that air into the intake(recirculation is due to environment/air quality). It's not a stright pipe like on most cars but it passes the Air Oil Separator which pulls out all the 'gunk' from the air so that clean air is feed to the intake. This is good, becuse oil-mist lowers the octan which potentialy can cause problems like knocking.
Well, so-far-so-good. But, what does the AOS do with all the 'gunk' it takes out from the engine air? It dumps it down into the sump, mixing with the engine oil. not. good. at. all.
Here you can see what 3000mils of 'gunk' look like:
Ok, I'm thinking a catch can would be much better. I prefer to drain some gunk from time to time rather than having it mixed with the engine oil. After a lot of googling I found someone who had done some research to how well they work: https://gallery.mailchimp.com/807089...Comparison.pdf
Seams fairly easy to re-route some pipes and install a can? Anyone done it?
I've spent most of the day researching the purpose and function of the AOS. Put shortly it reduces the over-pressure inside the engine and recirculates that air into the intake(recirculation is due to environment/air quality). It's not a stright pipe like on most cars but it passes the Air Oil Separator which pulls out all the 'gunk' from the air so that clean air is feed to the intake. This is good, becuse oil-mist lowers the octan which potentialy can cause problems like knocking.
Well, so-far-so-good. But, what does the AOS do with all the 'gunk' it takes out from the engine air? It dumps it down into the sump, mixing with the engine oil. not. good. at. all.
Here you can see what 3000mils of 'gunk' look like: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tWLYRvBhJgQ
Ok, I'm thinking a catch can would be much better. I prefer to drain some gunk from time to time rather than having it mixed with the engine oil. After a lot of googling I found someone who had done some research to how well they work: https://gallery.mailchimp.com/807089...Comparison.pdf
Seams fairly easy to re-route some pipes and install a can? Anyone done it?
I read thru the discussion. It's a mix of different solutions but most will keep the AOS in place and adding catch cans somewhere in the piping to/from it.
I would like to get rid of it. I saw someone linked to the 'Stellan' solutions and commented on fuel trim issues.
The obvious way of doing it is to take the vacuum from the standard position (after the MAF). This is how stellan did it. The problem is that you bypass the MAF so the engine has no clue how much fuel is going in. Porsche solved this by adding the diaphragm thing to limit the flow so that the short term fuel trim would adjust for it(I'm guessing a little here but makes sense). If you let it free flow it will just go outside what the standard lambda sond will be able to handle. AND, thats why it works by taking the vaccum from the airbox: then the MAF can correctly measure the air going to the engine. But, then you end up with a dirty air filter and fouling the MAF with oil....damn.
So, I think a functional solution would be to use one, or maybe two for cleaning the air properly, good catch can (like the industrial filter ones I linked to above) and take the vacuum somewhere in the filter box. Maybe connect it after the filter but definitely before the MAF.
The risk is then to foul the MAF/airfilter but you remove the bad oil and no more AOS issues. Think I prefer that.