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If you take a simple little mechanic's ear (stethoscope) and listen to bank#2 concentrating on cylinder 5 and 6, and there is ticking, then what else could be causing the ticking noise if it's not cylinder bore scoring?
Did I miss where he said he did that? If he did then yes I agree but all I saw is he said there is a ticking. It literally could be hundreds of things. My suggestion wasn't to ignore it and just buy, it was to investigate further. He could possibly score it because its something stupid.
So, here's a question...finding out it's a 2001 not a 2002 and an in service date of 6/2000 there's a chance it has the duel row IMS bearing which from my reading are less prone to failure, that coupled with an otherwise fabulous service history makes it interesting enough to take a look. Assuming one or more of the bores are scored and I can wrangle it for 7K what am I looking at as far as a refurb is concerned? Worst case is IMS and a refurb, again what might I be looking at to add to the purchase price?
There is no "refurb" on these. Scored cylinders ends up being an invasive rebuild with new cylinder liners. Cost wise, teens and up into the mid-20K $$. A member recently (within the last couple of weeks) priced out the current rebuild options and laid them out nicely. It might be worth looking for that thread. It really is worth starting with a good example, with a clean PPI, and good documentation, if you can swing it.
Also, 2000 production date is no guarantee of a dual row bearing. That model year seems to be hit or miss, some dual, some single row. Nobody, not even the most experienced people, or Porsche themselves can tell you which ones have which. You can only tell by dropping the transmission and taking a peek.
So, here's a question...finding out it's a 2001 not a 2002 and an in service date of 6/2000 there's a chance it has the duel row IMS bearing which from my reading are less prone to failure, that coupled with an otherwise fabulous service history makes it interesting enough to take a look. Assuming one or more of the bores are scored and I can wrangle it for 7K what am I looking at as far as a refurb is concerned? Worst case is IMS and a refurb, again what might I be looking at to add to the purchase price?
01's with single row (if I recall correctly) are the most problematic when it come to the IMSB's.
You are right Professor, it obviously can't be anything but that.... I sorry I go against your magic 8 ball and all knowing wisdom. It could be that and most likely is but doesn't have to be.
Didn't mean to open a can of worms...the current owner isn't being very responsive. I've tried to get him to talk to me for 2 days now with no luck. I would at least like to get a look at it, if for nothing else but comparison sake for when I look at others.
Didn't mean to open a can of worms...the current owner isn't being very responsive. I've tried to get him to talk to me for 2 days now with no luck. I would at least like to get a look at it, if for nothing else but comparison sake for when I look at others.
Its all good, and its probably bore scoring, but its worth a look in my opinion. For nothing else to help you get a better understanding of what to look for. Next, Nutty P will be telling you all about the IMS bearing yada yada yada....
Every car has their issues, find a good example you like, buy it, drive it and smile. Like is too short to fear a car you own...
Valve lash, rings worn, loose spark plug, yea the stethoscope should help rule it in or out,
cheap bore scope is sub 40 bucks that plug in to a tablet or smartphone..
This doesn't even "require" a mechanic to see if there are issues..
Don't panic "too" quick..
Valve lash, rings worn, loose spark plug, yea the stethoscope should help rule it in or out,
cheap bore scope is sub 40 bucks that plug in to a tablet or smartphone..
This doesn't even "require" a mechanic to see if there are issues..
Don't panic "too" quick..
At that price you aren't far from roller territory. The car has a rebuildable core. Many rollers do not. If you want to spend your hours messing with something and have a decent little driver/toy at the end, it might be something to consider.
However - what about the rest of the car? Cuz - once you sink $27k into a car that at best is worth $20k you are going to be driving it for a long, long time. Right color? Int? Options? Have you driven a 996 at all? Everything non-engine related better be leg-tingle good, or you're upside-down by $5-10k in 18 months with a car you just spent a decent chunk on and now want to dump and go elsewhere.
Frankly, I wouldn't be looking at the 996 family at all. It is a bargain basement market, and that's what drew me in, but I'm not retired, and I flip cars for money most of the time.
If you take a simple little mechanic's ear (stethoscope) and listen to bank#2 concentrating on cylinder 5 and 6, and there is ticking, then what else could be causing the ticking noise if it's not cylinder bore scoring?
A friend of mine has a 99 cab 80k miles and has a ticking noise from between the 4,5 cylinders (used mechanic stethoscope). We dropped his sump, and there was the normal aluminum shavings, nothing ferrous. We boroscoped cylinders 4,5,6 top and bottom, there was no bore scoring. The filter did have what looked like timing guide or cam pad material. The car drives absolutely perfect, no CEL, and no smoke at startup. The car does have the occasional chain slap at startup, but not all the time. According to the forums if it has this ticking it's 100% bore scoring, but that's not the case here. Another member had a similar issue on rennlist and it turned out to be one of his swirl pots. Not the case here. Also, it's usually never a failed lifter. Maybe Jake Raby can give his thoughts?
A friend of mine has a 99 cab 80k miles and has a ticking noise from between the 4,5 cylinders (used mechanic stethoscope). We dropped his sump, and there was the normal aluminum shavings, nothing ferrous. We boroscoped cylinders 4,5,6 top and bottom, there was no bore scoring. The filter did have what looked like timing guide or cam pad material. The car drives absolutely perfect, no CEL, and no smoke at startup. The car does have the occasional chain slap at startup, but not all the time. According to the forums if it has this ticking it's 100% bore scoring, but that's not the case here. Another member had a similar issue on rennlist and it turned out to be one of his swirl pots. Not the case here. Also, it's usually never a failed lifter. Maybe Jake Raby can give his thoughts?
BUT BUT BUT IT HAS TO BE BORE SCORING, IT JUST HAS TO BE!!!!
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