Thanks--yes, this is exactly what I'm talking about. I see lots of posts about it but never a final solution. Our experience with asking Durametric is the same as everyone else's.

I guess it's just amazing to me if the only answer is to take the car to a dealer just to finish bleeding the brakes.

Yep, we did this.

Been doing it with the ignition on, engine off.

 

Might be worth trying with the engine running. Not sure it is the answer, but shouldn't hurt.

 

UPDATE:

So I took my 996 to the Porsche dealer in Madison, WI on Friday and they had difficulty connecting to the PSM/ABS module. They could not properly bleed the system because their system didn't seem to be communicating with the module properly. They seemed stumped but ultimately recommended that I replace it entirely.

They were pretty vague and didn't seem all that interested in working on a 20-year-old car. I'm reluctant to just throw parts at this problem but it seems like my only option at this point. If the ABS and PSM systems are actually working but just not communicating correctly with the Porsche and Durametric computers, which part would I replace? Any ideas?

 

Sorry to hear this.

I would agree on the Durametric software, When I bought mine, I called tech support because the "Targa" module didn't work. They want log files from their software using their utility, which also didn't work, I went round and round and because I couldn't provide files they wouldn't engage any more and of course my 30 Return was gone.

I asked what files they needed and I'd get them,,, Couldn't answer that ? because their utility did it for them and they didn't know.
Which I replied it didn't work anyway and you don't know what files you need ? I looked after using software multiple and there were no changes in Laptop files in last 10 minutes, which should have shown something.

Worst money I've ever spent on the 996.

I also would like to bleed my PSM car, but unless I'm missing something not possible w Durametric. Anybody want to start a suit against them for false /misleading ad?

 

My independent mechanic went through the same crap with Durametric before I resorted to trying the dealer. I honestly never considered that the dealer wouldn't be able to accomplish this.

As long as you haven't drained the system for something like a master cylinder replacement, you're fine to bleed them the old-fashioned way.

 

I would hold off before just replacing the ABS/PSM hydraulic unit if it was my car. Every time you start the car and drive over 3-4 mph the system runs through a self-test program and cycles the solenoid valves and the pump motor. If there's a problem it will throw a code and light up the ABS and/or PSM fault indicators on the dash. It may in fact turn out to be bad but it's odd that the dealer didn't find a fault code and the dash fail lights aren't coming on if that's the root cause.

Are you sure the hydraulic lines for the front and rear brake circuit connections at the master cylinder were reconnected and retightened correctly? What about all the caliper bleed valves? Either of those could be drawing air into the system and you might not notice a tiny amount of brake fluid. Even though you bench bled the mc, did your mechanic do a good old fashioned stand on the pedal bleed?

After checking the above, I would substitute in a known good master cylinder, re-bleed and see if that fixes it before I dropped good money on a new hydraulic unit.

 

Yeah, I thought that was weird, too. Other than the pedal being pretty soft, the car functions 100% normally with no lights on the dash. PSM and ABS work fine.

I will double check but have to believe they're tight because I'd notice the loss of fluid.

Brakes have been bled the old fashioned way half a dozen times or more. The dealer said they ran $200 of brake fluid through in their attempts to diagnose.

Gotcha, that would probably be a cheaper place to start. Thanks for the input.

 

Np, happy to help.

FWIW, I chased a soft pedal problem before including swapping the hydraulic unit and the master cylinder in the heat of the moment between races, continuing to bleed the system like crazy over the weekend as the problem persisted. It turns out I had missed a rear wheel bearing starting to go which was causing just enough wobble to cause the rear pads to knock back and displace the fluid in the wrong direction.

A good way to check for leaks at the mc connection is to tear a few strips of shop towels off, wrap them around the connections and hold them on with a zip tie or small binder clip. It may be a tiny bit of fluid weeping out you might ordinarily miss with a visual inspection but air can get into the smallest of spaces.

 

Noted, but wouldn't the pedal feel start out normal and continue to get softer as fluid is lost? The pedal feel doesn't change at any point of the process.

 

Yes, if you were losing significant amounts of fluid it would keep getting softer. Over time the fluid level in the reservoir would keep dropping too of course.