Raceworks coilovers?
#76
I would normally tend to agree, but neither of this issues are highlighting a big quality concern. They're both mix ups that can be easily remedied. And Raceworks has been very responsive on both - like <2hr response time any time of the day.
Fronts ride great with just an initial setup and the build quality is definitely high. Time will tell on the robustness, but a 3 year warranty makes me think Raceworks is willing to stand behind these. Most others in this price range are just 1 year.
For me personally, I just wanted to get something on to replace the worn out stock suspension. Even just stock shock replacements was getting close or exceeding the price of these and that's reusing the springs/bumps/top plates. With these being rebuildable, I don't plan on having to get a new suspension setup for a very very long time.
Yeah I'm at max. They say up to a 1.5in drop which would pretty much eliminate any gap as I show in my measurements above. I might take it down a touch, but I have no interest in a slammed ride.
They're tossing the bump stop in with the correct top plates, so no extra delay. Will update as soon as I get them.
Fronts ride great with just an initial setup and the build quality is definitely high. Time will tell on the robustness, but a 3 year warranty makes me think Raceworks is willing to stand behind these. Most others in this price range are just 1 year.
For me personally, I just wanted to get something on to replace the worn out stock suspension. Even just stock shock replacements was getting close or exceeding the price of these and that's reusing the springs/bumps/top plates. With these being rebuildable, I don't plan on having to get a new suspension setup for a very very long time.
Yeah I'm at max. They say up to a 1.5in drop which would pretty much eliminate any gap as I show in my measurements above. I might take it down a touch, but I have no interest in a slammed ride.
They're tossing the bump stop in with the correct top plates, so no extra delay. Will update as soon as I get them.
For me, this coilover setup will be replacing my worn-out M030 RoW (us spec) suspension and I'm simply looking for same ride height as I have with the M030 and hopefully comparable performance, if not better.
I sent an email yesterday to check ETA for us with the Eibach springs...haven't heard anything yet.
I'm glad to hear they are taking care of you with the minor issues you've experienced.
Mike
#77
They responded to my email yesterday. They're busy.
I'm being told that the remaining kits should be shipping within the next few days. Fingers crossed.
Looking forward to receiving and getting these things installed.
Mike
I'm being told that the remaining kits should be shipping within the next few days. Fingers crossed.
Looking forward to receiving and getting these things installed.
Mike
#79
Haven't heard anything in a month. Sent email yesterday and no response.
#80
^^^
I'm sure they'll get back to you. I took them a full day for them to respond to my last email.
Edit: My car is down. It's in pieces waiting for these parts and I'm in the middle of a move...so I'm definitely anxious to receive these...
Mike
I'm sure they'll get back to you. I took them a full day for them to respond to my last email.
Edit: My car is down. It's in pieces waiting for these parts and I'm in the middle of a move...so I'm definitely anxious to receive these...
Mike
#81
Rennlist Member
Are these made to order?
#82
Instructor
Looks like I'll have everything I need to get the rears on by Saturday. Definitely looking forward to other people's impressions.
Took a nice long drive last night and dialed in the adjustable rebound a bit more. As I said before, I planned to go a little bit more to the "+" side. The car felt a bit vague at the mid setting (16 clicks), so I brought it up to 8 clicks from full "+". It feels very solid now and settles very quickly after any road upsets (we have a lot in Dallas). Over very sharp bumps at higher speeds it doesn't feel harsh but you hear more of a clunk. I went with the pillow ball top plates as opposed to OEM rubber. I'm guessing this is the side effect of that. Would be cool to compare the same setup on rubber just to know exactly how much steering feel you give up and NVH you reduce, but I'm not unhappy the the tradeoff point these offer as built.
Based on playing around with the rear shocks and discussing with Raceworks, it looks like my interpretation of "+" and "-" was incorrect. "+" (counterclockwise) opens the bypass and "-" (clockwise) closes it. So my full "-" setting was a fully closed bypass and I guess the full hard setting. It did not feel good, but it wasn't in a jarring way like I would expect full hard to feel. It was in a vague bouncy way. Maybe it's what overdamped feels like.
Here's some more detailed pics I took while getting the rears ready for the plate swap and added bump stop.
I tried to take the top nut off with a hand wrench but of course it just spins. The countering option of a 10mm on the black threaded section is not enough to hold the shaft against the 19mm nyloc nut. Was recommended to try an impact wrench with no counter instead.
End with everything pulled off. You can barely see the locking ring inset.
The swaybar attachment point coming off. it has two allen screws to tighten it down once it's set where you need it. Feels like steel based on it's weight.
Bottom threaded ring (aluminum) that holds the spring tight and sets your preload. It has a plastic insert between it and the spring to reduce noise. Second plastic insert goes between the top of the spring and the top holder. Be interesting to see how these hold up over time.
Shot of the spring alone
Number on the spring. I believe the 12 indicates the spring rate of 12k = 672lbs/in. The site indicates standard rates of 400F /700R
Side shot of spring
Cup that screws onto the shock end to set the height. It feels like aluminum based on the weight, but the bushing insert is definitely steel as it is much heavier.
Top of the shock with the bumpstop and cover pulled back.
Took a nice long drive last night and dialed in the adjustable rebound a bit more. As I said before, I planned to go a little bit more to the "+" side. The car felt a bit vague at the mid setting (16 clicks), so I brought it up to 8 clicks from full "+". It feels very solid now and settles very quickly after any road upsets (we have a lot in Dallas). Over very sharp bumps at higher speeds it doesn't feel harsh but you hear more of a clunk. I went with the pillow ball top plates as opposed to OEM rubber. I'm guessing this is the side effect of that. Would be cool to compare the same setup on rubber just to know exactly how much steering feel you give up and NVH you reduce, but I'm not unhappy the the tradeoff point these offer as built.
Based on playing around with the rear shocks and discussing with Raceworks, it looks like my interpretation of "+" and "-" was incorrect. "+" (counterclockwise) opens the bypass and "-" (clockwise) closes it. So my full "-" setting was a fully closed bypass and I guess the full hard setting. It did not feel good, but it wasn't in a jarring way like I would expect full hard to feel. It was in a vague bouncy way. Maybe it's what overdamped feels like.
Here's some more detailed pics I took while getting the rears ready for the plate swap and added bump stop.
I tried to take the top nut off with a hand wrench but of course it just spins. The countering option of a 10mm on the black threaded section is not enough to hold the shaft against the 19mm nyloc nut. Was recommended to try an impact wrench with no counter instead.
End with everything pulled off. You can barely see the locking ring inset.
The swaybar attachment point coming off. it has two allen screws to tighten it down once it's set where you need it. Feels like steel based on it's weight.
Bottom threaded ring (aluminum) that holds the spring tight and sets your preload. It has a plastic insert between it and the spring to reduce noise. Second plastic insert goes between the top of the spring and the top holder. Be interesting to see how these hold up over time.
Shot of the spring alone
Number on the spring. I believe the 12 indicates the spring rate of 12k = 672lbs/in. The site indicates standard rates of 400F /700R
Side shot of spring
Cup that screws onto the shock end to set the height. It feels like aluminum based on the weight, but the bushing insert is definitely steel as it is much heavier.
Top of the shock with the bumpstop and cover pulled back.
#83
Instructor
#84
Instructor
Got the new top plates. Looks like the bolts are a bit beefier when compared to the 986 plates.
Still waiting on the missing bump stop to get everything together and in the car.
Still waiting on the missing bump stop to get everything together and in the car.
#86
#87
^^^^
That's really really disappointing. I'm sorry to hear that.
Please let us know if you have any issues...
Edit: Did you order the Eibach option or the standard Novak?
Mike
That's really really disappointing. I'm sorry to hear that.
Please let us know if you have any issues...
Edit: Did you order the Eibach option or the standard Novak?
Mike
#88
Really?? That’s sad to hear. I emailed hem and got a reply within 30 mins. Did you check their hours I know they are not open on Monday’s. He said the contact in Taiwan is at a trade show so no shipping info but that they are in transit. Anyways I’m sorry to hear about that especially since I have been getting timely responses. This leads me to believe the rennlist promo might have them stretched thin due to the q/c issue and what I can only guess is inconsistent feedback.
#90
Rennlist Member