02 4S - engine out procedure. What else should be done?
#1
02 4S - engine out procedure. What else should be done?
Hello, just recently got to look after a 996 4S manual with just 50K kilometer on the clock now. Euro car, mint inside and out, maintained at the dealership.
It was driven 10K km in 6 months, and will get the full engine out service next week (mostly because of unaddressed IMS).
The car has no issues, it had a check at Porsche for OBD failure codes, and no irregularities were found.
Whats planned to be done:
- IMS
- RMS
- spark plugs
- oil change
- oil filter change
- air filter change
- coolant flush
- brake rework (complete rebuild)
- new clutch
- new belt
- transmission fluid change
What else should be done, when engine is out of the car?
I read about the water pump being a service item worth doing, but it seems to have no issues yet. Also read about the air / oil separator, but seems fine too, as either OBD failures should show up (running rich) or there should be watewr in the oil (we`ll check when draining).
Any advice is highly appreciated!
It was driven 10K km in 6 months, and will get the full engine out service next week (mostly because of unaddressed IMS).
The car has no issues, it had a check at Porsche for OBD failure codes, and no irregularities were found.
Whats planned to be done:
- IMS
- RMS
- spark plugs
- oil change
- oil filter change
- air filter change
- coolant flush
- brake rework (complete rebuild)
- new clutch
- new belt
- transmission fluid change
What else should be done, when engine is out of the car?
I read about the water pump being a service item worth doing, but it seems to have no issues yet. Also read about the air / oil separator, but seems fine too, as either OBD failures should show up (running rich) or there should be watewr in the oil (we`ll check when draining).
Any advice is highly appreciated!
#2
Burning Brakes
AOS, Engine Mounts, Trans mount. Consider LN engineering Spin on oil filter adapter if you don't go with the IMS Solution (which you should do). Water Pump and Low Temp T-Stat. These things should have minimal additional labor cost if done while the engine is out. If you do them at a later date the labor will be MUCH higher. Not to mention being stuck on the side of the road.
#4
Rennlist Member
I would replace the coolant recovery tank as well.
#5
All of the above. It might be a good idea to change the oil filler tube too. It's a plastic part that gets brittle with age. It's only about $60 but is a pain to replace with the engine in the car. The AOS is also made of plastic and it's advisable to replace it when the engine is out even if it's not showing signs of a problem.
Btw - Congratulations!
Btw - Congratulations!
#6
Rennlist Member
Hello I have a 2003 targa and bought IMS kit to update the engine, dropped the motor and then found out is was a new engine replaced in 2010 under warrantee, I replace water tank, thermostat, plugs, engine mounts, did Fister exhaust update (myself), belts and pulley.
So I have an brand new IMS kit , listed for $699 will sell with all receipts for $450
John
So I have an brand new IMS kit , listed for $699 will sell with all receipts for $450
John
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#8
Unfortunately not my car, helping a friend optimise for our driving club here in Lisbon - I am still old school on my 77 930 forcefeeder
Thanks everyone for your input. Added AOS, water pump and water reservoir to the build list.
Vacuum lines are difficult to trace from euro parts dealer - any detail on which ones? Surely not the brake vacuum line?
Motor mounts are expensive, if upgrading to stiff / fixed mounts. Is it worth it? Does the added vibration kill the comfort in the car?
Cheers!
Thanks everyone for your input. Added AOS, water pump and water reservoir to the build list.
Vacuum lines are difficult to trace from euro parts dealer - any detail on which ones? Surely not the brake vacuum line?
Motor mounts are expensive, if upgrading to stiff / fixed mounts. Is it worth it? Does the added vibration kill the comfort in the car?
Cheers!
#9
Rennlist Member
Btw, sounds like a good project, I did all of that and then done upon purchase and it’s been a great car so far.
#10
Removed all plastic covers and wheel well covers today from the underbody. amazing how all that is conserved. No rust whatsoever, except on metal clips for screws.
Love the way this is built. Its super easy to dismantle, and rather well protected. I removed about 5kg of small stones from all cavities today, after the car flew off the track.
Only thing I found that bothers me: On the rear bumper there is a plastic piece riveted to it. Riveted? Really?
No car should have rivets!
Pic to follow tomorrow, once we start dropping the engine.
Love the way this is built. Its super easy to dismantle, and rather well protected. I removed about 5kg of small stones from all cavities today, after the car flew off the track.
Only thing I found that bothers me: On the rear bumper there is a plastic piece riveted to it. Riveted? Really?
No car should have rivets!
Pic to follow tomorrow, once we start dropping the engine.
#11
I would add.
- Water pump
- Low temp thermostat
- Pulley and tensors (if they need to, usually they do)
- Front diff oil
- Coils (it is recommended to change them together with the spark plugs)
- Cabin filter
You can do all these things later on if you want without dropping the engine, but, I think it is worthy to do it now while you are there.
Ps: if the car comes from Europe, I would recommend to verify the engine hours
- Water pump
- Low temp thermostat
- Pulley and tensors (if they need to, usually they do)
- Front diff oil
- Coils (it is recommended to change them together with the spark plugs)
- Cabin filter
You can do all these things later on if you want without dropping the engine, but, I think it is worthy to do it now while you are there.
Ps: if the car comes from Europe, I would recommend to verify the engine hours
#12
Burning Brakes
I'd do the plastic chain tensioners and the chains themselves, I believe the 2002 models had particularly poor quality timing chains (check with F6i and LN) and the more up to date tensioners have better materials in them than the older parts.
#13
Rennlist Member
I forget but there are a couple of coolant hoses that are almost impossible to replace without engine out service. I would replace those, but then again, i'd replace ALL the coolant hoses, the AOS (with Motorsport unit), water pump with metal impeller blades, chain tensioners, Maaaaaybe valve seats, coolant expansion tank, coil packs, belts, spark plug.
I'd also do the IMS solution to be honest.
I'd also do the IMS solution to be honest.
#14
So a couple of pictures from today.
before cleaning, man thats a parts-heavy car if you compare it to a G 911..
Can anyone say if the brownish wax in some of the images is from the Factory, or if its added as protection from someone before?
Tomorrow engine will be out, and separating the transmission we´ll get a first look at the status of the IMS. Oil leak on the bell housing is present, curious to see what the IMS looks like.
Whats the wax, original or crap? Bad looking anyway..
before cleaning, man thats a parts-heavy car if you compare it to a G 911..
Can anyone say if the brownish wax in some of the images is from the Factory, or if its added as protection from someone before?
Tomorrow engine will be out, and separating the transmission we´ll get a first look at the status of the IMS. Oil leak on the bell housing is present, curious to see what the IMS looks like.
Whats the wax, original or crap? Bad looking anyway..