First Porsche advice
06-10-2019 | 12:49 AM
#76
Rennlist Member
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 146
From: near Jackson, MS
I was able to piece together my own Center Radiator Kit using new and used parts.
It cost me $394.
I would also suggest replacing the water pump and a low temp thermostat.
I also installed the LN Engineering 2qt deep sump which solves oil issues if you use the correct oil.
All of these were easy installs.
It cost me $394.
I would also suggest replacing the water pump and a low temp thermostat.
I also installed the LN Engineering 2qt deep sump which solves oil issues if you use the correct oil.
All of these were easy installs.
In my research this issue is way more complicated than it seems initially.
But for the record I too recently purchased sump extensions and X51 style baffle trays. It definitely helps.
06-10-2019 | 01:27 AM
#77
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Aug 2018
Posts: 1,968
Likes: 219
Alright. After months of search and research I've bought it!
2002 C4S with 115k miles.
Now the questions... Since I plan doing some HPDE events I want to install 2qt deep sump with baffles and center radiator. Also a set of light rims and track tires. I have a few porsche mechanics in the area i live (Burbank, CA) and I want to shop around for prices... I wonder what's typical price range for oil pan baffle and center radiator installation should I expect? Anyone from here living in my area? Also, what brand of light rims for racing is good?
PS looks like I have brand new thermostat and water pump, bilstein adjustable coil overs (they make squeaking noise on low speed when going over speed bumps etc, is that normal?), evolution cold air intake.
2002 C4S with 115k miles.
Now the questions... Since I plan doing some HPDE events I want to install 2qt deep sump with baffles and center radiator. Also a set of light rims and track tires. I have a few porsche mechanics in the area i live (Burbank, CA) and I want to shop around for prices... I wonder what's typical price range for oil pan baffle and center radiator installation should I expect? Anyone from here living in my area? Also, what brand of light rims for racing is good?
PS looks like I have brand new thermostat and water pump, bilstein adjustable coil overs (they make squeaking noise on low speed when going over speed bumps etc, is that normal?), evolution cold air intake.
06-10-2019 | 07:49 AM
#79
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 67
Likes: 3
From: Los Angeles, CA
I was able to piece together my own Center Radiator Kit using new and used parts.
It cost me $394.
I would also suggest replacing the water pump and a low temp thermostat.
I also installed the LN Engineering 2qt deep sump which solves oil issues if you use the correct oil.
All of these were easy installs.
It cost me $394.
I would also suggest replacing the water pump and a low temp thermostat.
I also installed the LN Engineering 2qt deep sump which solves oil issues if you use the correct oil.
All of these were easy installs.
I've read LN engineering PDF about racing this engine, and they suggest replacing special racing oil before each event and then replacing back to street oil. Isn't that too crazy? When I say I plan to race this car, I mean just doing a few HPDE events a year, each event is Saturday-Sunday 3 times a day, 20 minutes each. Is this procedure still recommended in this case?
06-10-2019 | 10:15 AM
#80
Former Vendor
Joined: Jun 2019
Posts: 76
Likes: 0
From: Mocksville, North Carolina
It all depends on your expectations for the car I think. Make sure you get a PPI first, get a car with as much documentation as possible. Maintenance if done frequently is the key to these cars lasting a long time. I posted this below in a previous thread but these are some items from my experience that wear out.
Couple of common problems:
Those are just some things to look at when purchasing on the history to see if they are done or a issue. I would look at a car with 65,000-90,000 miles. Most of the issues will flare up by then, I like the 1999-2000 year range, they are priced well and if maintained are a great car. Please let me know if you have any questions!
Couple of common problems:
- IMS Bearing
- Air Oil Separator
- Valve cover leaks
- RMS leaks
- Clutch/flywheel wear
- Wheel bearing issues
- Water pump
- Tensioners for belts
Those are just some things to look at when purchasing on the history to see if they are done or a issue. I would look at a car with 65,000-90,000 miles. Most of the issues will flare up by then, I like the 1999-2000 year range, they are priced well and if maintained are a great car. Please let me know if you have any questions!
06-25-2019 | 08:45 PM
#81
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 67
Likes: 3
From: Los Angeles, CA
ok so my car is in the shop for maintenance and some upgrades...
In the meantime, I think I'll use existing wheels for racing weekends, since I don't really like them. What are your favorite wheel design for daily usage?
In the meantime, I think I'll use existing wheels for racing weekends, since I don't really like them. What are your favorite wheel design for daily usage?
06-26-2019 | 05:14 PM
#85
Rennlist Member
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 1,027
Likes: 146
From: near Jackson, MS
I am going to be the party pooper on this thread, as I was in your very position at the end of last summer. I found a 99 C2 coupe on Craigslist with 70k miles for $17k. I drove it 5 times before a ticking noise sent me to a shop and discovered bore scoring in two cylinders. Now I'm looking at a $15k-$20K rebuild (and consensus on this forum is that I'm foolish if I don't to the $20k build).
Everyone is worried about the IMS failures, but there are other failure modes that are just as catastrophic and might actually be more prevalent as these cars age. The respected shops like LN and Flat 6 Innovations say the have seen a big increase in bore scoring issues over the last year, and that might be because of how the Lokasil lining on the cylinders wears with age. Learn about cylinder bore scoring and also the "d chunk" problem where the cylinder walls crack. Getting a bore scope as part of the PPI will cost a few hundred dollars extra - I skipped it because it seems like a lot to spend on a car you don't own, but I regret that decision now.
If you ever plan to go to a track, even just for a HPDE, learn about the things mentioned above - how sustained hard corning can starve the engine of oil and cause connecting rods and main bearing to come apart and require the rebuild mentioned above. Also, learn about how the early cars without a center radiator have inadequate cooling, or how the stock thermostat activates at too high a temperature, either of which can cause the engine to overheat and require an engine rebuild.
Also, don't forget to check on the health of the water pump, whose impeller can start to shed plastic chunks. Because once those get into the engine, you might be in for (you guessed it) a $20k engine rebuild.
Jeez. I didn't intend it, but I might have just talked myself out of keeping this car. Oddly enough, I was shopping blue NA Miatas before I decided to "go for it" and treat myself to the 911 I've always wanted.
Everyone is worried about the IMS failures, but there are other failure modes that are just as catastrophic and might actually be more prevalent as these cars age. The respected shops like LN and Flat 6 Innovations say the have seen a big increase in bore scoring issues over the last year, and that might be because of how the Lokasil lining on the cylinders wears with age. Learn about cylinder bore scoring and also the "d chunk" problem where the cylinder walls crack. Getting a bore scope as part of the PPI will cost a few hundred dollars extra - I skipped it because it seems like a lot to spend on a car you don't own, but I regret that decision now.
If you ever plan to go to a track, even just for a HPDE, learn about the things mentioned above - how sustained hard corning can starve the engine of oil and cause connecting rods and main bearing to come apart and require the rebuild mentioned above. Also, learn about how the early cars without a center radiator have inadequate cooling, or how the stock thermostat activates at too high a temperature, either of which can cause the engine to overheat and require an engine rebuild.
Also, don't forget to check on the health of the water pump, whose impeller can start to shed plastic chunks. Because once those get into the engine, you might be in for (you guessed it) a $20k engine rebuild.
Jeez. I didn't intend it, but I might have just talked myself out of keeping this car. Oddly enough, I was shopping blue NA Miatas before I decided to "go for it" and treat myself to the 911 I've always wanted.
07-15-2019 | 06:11 AM
#86
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 67
Likes: 3
From: Los Angeles, CA
I’d say a deep sump helps with oiling as well as the x51 style tray you will get with it. I don’t think it solves potential oiling issues. I’m not the expert but I believe these mods just give you a larger oil reserve in high g situations. The solution would be a better oil scavenging system to return the oil to the sump faster. The ultimate band aid is the accusump as far as I can tell.
In my research this issue is way more complicated than it seems initially.
But for the record I too recently purchased sump extensions and X51 style baffle trays. It definitely helps.
In my research this issue is way more complicated than it seems initially.
But for the record I too recently purchased sump extensions and X51 style baffle trays. It definitely helps.
is accusump used in conjunction with 2qt deep sump, or just by itself or somehow else?
07-16-2019 | 10:02 AM
#87
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,417
Likes: 150
From: VT USA
They are mutually independent. You don't need a deep sump to run an Accusump, but there is nothing preventing you from doing them together. There are also a couple of different sizes of sumps, and different manufacturers, each with their own fan followings. If you are really motivated you could run a 2 quart deep sump, x51 style baffle, and an Accusump all together.