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I found the 1999/2000 model year diagram online, I think it's probably close. I dug some more and found that pin 86 of relay 18 was always hot, which made sense considering the fault. The more I thought about it, I realized that the fused side of C7 should go directly to pin 86 so the fault HAD to be between the fuse box and the relay box. I pulled out both of them and clipped the wire at each end and installed a jumper and viola, the temp sensor turns on and off with the key! Juding by the complexity of the wiring loom and its sheer size, the jumper may be a permanent fix. I have no desire to unwrap the whole harness looking for a melted or chafed wire. Temporary jumper wire.
Cool. That would be a good fix if it doesn't affect the other systems on the same circuit.
Yeah, that's my concern as well. Everything seems to work OK so far, no warning lights and the AC compressor does engage. I will give a cursory look at the harness to see if I can find anything obviously wrong but in all likelihood, I will locate some matching wire and solder it up and put it all back together.
I really appreciate all of your help on this. You started me down the right path, thank you!
Since your issue is power leaked into that circuit, it may be worthwhile to check for any parasitic drain when the emgine is off and the alarm is armed. Should see no more than 30mA or so after 1hr.
Since your issue is power leaked into that circuit, it may be worthwhile to check for any parasitic drain when the emgine is off and the alarm is armed. Should see no more than 30mA or so after 1hr.
I guess I'm not quite out of the woods yet! Driving around today I started messing with everything electrical I could to see if my "fix" had broken something else. I found that the rear window defogger was not working. A parasitic draw revealed a 250 milliamp draw that was reduced to 25 milliamps when I removed fuse D2 (defrost and mirror heat);
I also noticed that my seat heaters can be turned on with ignition off, which doesn't seem right either but I don't know any better.
I have more digging to do! At this point I have relay 4 removed and have a 25 milliamp draw, which I think is fine. Removing relay 4 also disabled the heated seats so they are unintentionally connected! At least now The battery won't die overnight until I can track down the issue with the seat heat/rear defog/mirror heat.
I'll report back when I find out more. Weird that I seem to be the only one to ever experience this.
The problem is that C7 circuit is still shorted so it's powering a few things that should not be powered with the key removed. That's despite the fact you cut out the temp sensor fan. The C7 circuit is still getting power from somewhere.
If you can revert your fix, then remove relay #4 and #9 one at a time, you may be able to isolate the source of the leak.
01-01-2019, 03:30 PM
