Rear jacking point
#1
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Location: Alexandria, VA
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Rear jacking point
Word of caution. I have seen it described that there is a valid jacking point at the rear of the engine just aft of the sump. I used this point two days ago with no issues, but did it today and -sploosh- the right rear engine mount lost its guts. Its an early 1999 C2 Tiptronic, and its very possible the mounts were about to go any moment anyway (but they were clean, no leaks, until now). It is also possible that while the mounts were happy with the weight of the engine pressing DOWN on them (they are likely built to withstand significant COMPRESSION), the stress of lifting the car and engine UP when jacking somehow exceeded the capacity of the mounts in the EXTEND direction. Just a thought.
Wanted to share my experience, in case it may make someone think twice about about using this point. As this is my first post here, I'd just like to compliment the community on the value I've already gotten from this forum. Appreciate very much being able to learn from others experiences.
Wanted to share my experience, in case it may make someone think twice about about using this point. As this is my first post here, I'd just like to compliment the community on the value I've already gotten from this forum. Appreciate very much being able to learn from others experiences.
#2
Three Wheelin'
Word of caution. I have seen it described that there is a valid jacking point at the rear of the engine just aft of the sump. I used this point two days ago with no issues, but did it today and -sploosh- the right rear engine mount lost its guts. Its an early 1999 C2 Tiptronic, and its very possible the mounts were about to go any moment anyway (but they were clean, no leaks, until now). It is also possible that while the mounts were happy with the weight of the engine pressing DOWN on them (they are likely built to withstand significant COMPRESSION), the stress of lifting the car and engine UP when jacking somehow exceeded the capacity of the mounts in the EXTEND direction. Just a thought.
Wanted to share my experience, in case it may make someone think twice about about using this point. As this is my first post here, I'd just like to compliment the community on the value I've already gotten from this forum. Appreciate very much being able to learn from others experiences.
Wanted to share my experience, in case it may make someone think twice about about using this point. As this is my first post here, I'd just like to compliment the community on the value I've already gotten from this forum. Appreciate very much being able to learn from others experiences.
#3
Rennlist Member
Good PSA! I think you misunderstood though... it’s fairly common knowledge that the engine should NEVER be used as a “jackpoint” to lift the car! The spot you mentioned can be used to support the weight of the engine when changing the mounts - not lifting the car. If you need to lift the car and don’t want to use the right of left rear lift points, the alternative would be to use the rear crossmember... never try to lift the weight of the car via the engine - even if you’ve got solid engine mounts (as you found out the hard way).
#4
+996 on the cross member. I use a hockey puck on my floor jack.
#5
Rennlist Member
Thanks for taking the time to share with us. While a lot of us know about the cross member as a jacking point, there are tons of "resources" out there that suggest using the sump plate. ("Resources" because a lot of the instructional videos come from everyday Joes like me, not trained professionals.)
#6
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re your point Dr. Strangelove, on the sump. I think I used a solid point on the engine, not the sump plate, at least I think so. I think I got the idea from this thread. But again, my own fault.
Thanks again, everyone. Car's new to me so I'm still working to freshen up all the consumables and establish some good baselines. 1999 C2 Tip, black on black 67K or so miles.
Did the rear brakes and rotors today, just avoided triggering the warning sensor.
In other projects: oil done. Sump inspected, magnetic drain plug was just a little fuzzy, couple pieces of old sealant in the uptake filter. (Man, that Locktite 5900 is a pain, when its 37 degrees out! Drei bond for me next time.)
Strongly suspect struts and bump stops need a refresh.
Perhaps I'll post pics on the new engine mount install when they arrive!
Cheers.
#7
If you use your emergency jack in the rear jack point to lift the rear slightly you can then get a trolley jack in at the rear past the engine to the rear suspension cross member , I usually jack on this , be careful you jack plate is rotated correctly so as not to damage the aluminium though the I put axle stands under the jacking points on each side once the emergency jack has been moved out of the way, don't fancy jacking onto the engine at all 😱
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#8
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For clarity, in below diagram, I believe the cross member referenced above is part 6 in the below diagram. My parts list has the following possible part numbers (and corresponding model years).
996 331 261 05 (98)
996 331 261 06 (-99)
996 331 261 07 (-01)
996 331 261 10 (02-)
997 331 261 02
Cheers.
996 331 261 05 (98)
996 331 261 06 (-99)
996 331 261 07 (-01)
996 331 261 10 (02-)
997 331 261 02
Cheers.
#9
Rennlist Member
^^ Yes^^ - FYI, my car is lowered about an inch and I can still roll my low profile jack under to jack by the cross member. Once it's up in the air I can put my jack-stands under the rear jack points.
#10
My jack isn't quite low enough with the hockey puck so I have to drive my car up on 1 x 8 boards to get the clearance. I have to remember to put the boards back under the tires before I lower the car. I forgot once and had to borrow my neighbors jack to get my jack out. Live and learn.
#11
Originally Posted by rabele
For clarity, in below diagram, I believe the cross member referenced above is part 6 in the below diagram. My parts list has the following possible part numbers (and corresponding model years).
996 331 261 05 (98)
996 331 261 06 (-99)
996 331 261 07 (-01)
996 331 261 10 (02-)
997 331 261 02
Cheers.
996 331 261 05 (98)
996 331 261 06 (-99)
996 331 261 07 (-01)
996 331 261 10 (02-)
997 331 261 02
Cheers.
#12
Originally Posted by wyovino
My jack isn't quite low enough with the hockey puck so I have to drive my car up on 1 x 8 boards to get the clearance. I have to remember to put the boards back under the tires before I lower the car. I forgot once and had to borrow my neighbors jack to get my jack out. Live and learn.
#13
Rennlist Member
My jack isn't quite low enough with the hockey puck so I have to drive my car up on 1 x 8 boards to get the clearance. I have to remember to put the boards back under the tires before I lower the car. I forgot once and had to borrow my neighbors jack to get my jack out. Live and learn.
#14
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On the upside, this mistake gave me reason to replace the engine mounts which I did this weekend. Existing mounts were both showing a lot more rubber than the new Rein ones I'd ordered, so it was probably due for a refresh anyway. And while in there, with the airbox out and the SAI out, I lubed the SAI bearing, replaced the engine air filter (pic below, yikes!), and replaced the serpentine belt. She's new to me so I'm still working on establishing new baselines for everything.
date code on old filter: "10-05-02"
date code on old filter: "10-05-02"
#15
Burning Brakes
On the upside, this mistake gave me reason to replace the engine mounts which I did this weekend. Existing mounts were both showing a lot more rubber than the new Rein ones I'd ordered, so it was probably due for a refresh anyway. And while in there, with the airbox out and the SAI out, I lubed the SAI bearing, replaced the engine air filter (pic below, yikes!), and replaced the serpentine belt. She's new to me so I'm still working on establishing new baselines for everything.
date code on old filter: "10-05-02"
date code on old filter: "10-05-02"