Repair or sell recently purchased 996 with bore scoring?
11-09-2018, 01:36 PM
#16
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I know it's tough to swallow, but 30K for a 996 is par for the course. I think I've even seen a quote somewhere along the line of it's a $30K car, pay now or pay later. Many of us, myself included, are well beyond that even net of wear items.
There's no point in just dumping the car right now. Move to heavier weight oil with more frequent intervals and drive it. You'll get the same roller price in 1 year or 3 years. I know it looms in your mind, but these cars in constant need of maintenance so you just get used to it. On my list is the catalytic converter, lubing the pivot bearing in the transmission, frunk struts, something clunking in the suspension, cup holder. I'll be happy if I can get 3 months of not having to do anything.
There's no point in just dumping the car right now. Move to heavier weight oil with more frequent intervals and drive it. You'll get the same roller price in 1 year or 3 years. I know it looms in your mind, but these cars in constant need of maintenance so you just get used to it. On my list is the catalytic converter, lubing the pivot bearing in the transmission, frunk struts, something clunking in the suspension, cup holder. I'll be happy if I can get 3 months of not having to do anything.
11-09-2018, 02:03 PM
#17
My car has been knocking like bore scoring since 60k miles January 2017. I've taken all precautions with 3k oil changes, BG oil flush, Ceratec additive oil analysis at each oil change. I don't drive WOT much and rarely go over 5k RPMs. I am just trying to push off the rebuild another year. I now have 87k miles and it's been almost two years since I first noticed the symptoms. The car burns a quart of oil every 1400 miles and it very rarely smokes at startup.
Since I will just buy a rebuilt engine, I am not even wasting money on replacing my original IMSB. if I need a clutch, I would do it.
I understand that the specifics of why one car quickly goes from bore scoring discovered to car is not running anymore and another car just knocks for several years probably depends on many unique conditions for each car.
Since I will just buy a rebuilt engine, I am not even wasting money on replacing my original IMSB. if I need a clutch, I would do it.
I understand that the specifics of why one car quickly goes from bore scoring discovered to car is not running anymore and another car just knocks for several years probably depends on many unique conditions for each car.
Last edited by USNA1970; 11-09-2018 at 02:38 PM. Reason: error on date
11-09-2018, 02:17 PM
#18
LS Swap!!!
Drive it until you collect the parts.
There are stand alone management systems available now that make it pretty plug and play if you dont have to deal with emissions where youre located.
The factory short block option would be the best bet for it to return to driver status while you keep up with all the other parts failing on it as mentioned previously and its the most "plug and play" of all but you'll have to pay someone some $$$ do the swap also.
Dont sell the car because of this little issue. Use a thicker oil and/or additive to keep it trucking see how long it lasts
Drive it until you collect the parts.
There are stand alone management systems available now that make it pretty plug and play if you dont have to deal with emissions where youre located.
The factory short block option would be the best bet for it to return to driver status while you keep up with all the other parts failing on it as mentioned previously and its the most "plug and play" of all but you'll have to pay someone some $$$ do the swap also.
Dont sell the car because of this little issue. Use a thicker oil and/or additive to keep it trucking see how long it lasts
11-09-2018, 02:41 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
LS Swap!!!
Drive it until you collect the parts.
There are stand alone management systems available now that make it pretty plug and play if you dont have to deal with emissions where youre located.
The factory short block option would be the best bet for it to return to driver status while you keep up with all the other parts failing on it as mentioned previously and its the most "plug and play" of all but you'll have to pay someone some $$$ do the swap also.
Dont sell the car because of this little issue. Use a thicker oil and/or additive to keep it trucking see how long it lasts
Drive it until you collect the parts.
There are stand alone management systems available now that make it pretty plug and play if you dont have to deal with emissions where youre located.
The factory short block option would be the best bet for it to return to driver status while you keep up with all the other parts failing on it as mentioned previously and its the most "plug and play" of all but you'll have to pay someone some $$$ do the swap also.
Dont sell the car because of this little issue. Use a thicker oil and/or additive to keep it trucking see how long it lasts
11-09-2018, 03:32 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
I thought it had to do with hot spots (thus using a lower T-stat) in the head and poor lubing/oil pressure when cold. I could be wrong...Conrod and piston angle has been mentioned as well.
11-09-2018, 03:51 PM
#22
I also think the power stroke on the right side loads the top part of the cylinder wall. Which is the area that gets less cooling and less lubrication as stated above.
11-09-2018, 07:02 PM
#23
After years of planning and hard work, I recently fulfilled a lifelong dream purchased a '99 Carrera black/black coupe with 71k miles. It was out of state, but I had done my homework and learned about IMS, RMS, AOS, bore scoring issues, and talked to a local mechanic who inspected the car and seemed to be aware of those issues as well.
When I picked up the car, it wasn’t making any worrying noises, but just a couple weeks after bringing it home I heard a ticking sound at startup that would fade away. I took it a local Porsche specialist that looked into the cylinders with a borescope and confirmed scoring on cylinders 5 and 6.
As I understand it, the only fix is to bore-out and resleeve the block - basically a complete rebuild. I’ve talked to 4 different Porsche specialist shops, and searched the internet, and can’t find a number lower than $15k to fix this. That’s almost what I paid for the car a month ago, and I’m having a tough time justifying spending $30k+ on a car that will likely end up being worth low 20s. The dream is now a nightmare.
I have two questions for this forum:
1. Is there a way to fix this car for significantly less than $15k? (Doing the work myself is not an option)
2. How much is the car worth in this condition?
When I picked up the car, it wasn’t making any worrying noises, but just a couple weeks after bringing it home I heard a ticking sound at startup that would fade away. I took it a local Porsche specialist that looked into the cylinders with a borescope and confirmed scoring on cylinders 5 and 6.
As I understand it, the only fix is to bore-out and resleeve the block - basically a complete rebuild. I’ve talked to 4 different Porsche specialist shops, and searched the internet, and can’t find a number lower than $15k to fix this. That’s almost what I paid for the car a month ago, and I’m having a tough time justifying spending $30k+ on a car that will likely end up being worth low 20s. The dream is now a nightmare.
I have two questions for this forum:
1. Is there a way to fix this car for significantly less than $15k? (Doing the work myself is not an option)
2. How much is the car worth in this condition?
11-09-2018, 07:45 PM
#24
I'd get a second opinion on the borescore rare for 3.4 usually 3.6 or 3.8, can get tappet rattle and tensioner noise on cold starts , did they go in from the top as usually you need to go in through the sump underneath to properly diagnose a bore score??
11-10-2018, 12:27 PM
#25
Rennlist Member
What it's worth? Think about the folks who paid $80-$90k for a brand new 996 and have only driven it 10,000 miles... Talk about "under water". A little bore scoring in one cylinder doesn't mean the engine is toast (yet). There are plenty of options but suffice it to say that none of them are inexpensive. Do your due diligence and then decide how much you like/love the car and for how long you want to keep it. Only then will you be able to make a well informed/intelligent decision. Good luck
11-10-2018, 11:30 PM
#26
Car is a black/black coupe, manual. Options: LSD, power memory seats, 18” twisty wheels, rear wiper. Mods: 19” black mesh wheels, short shifter, silicone intake tube, muffler bypass exhaust, and tinted windows.
Car looks fantastic from 5 feet and draws lots of positive reaction. Up close, paint has a fair number of blemishes.
11-10-2018, 11:33 PM
#27
They went in through the spark plug openings and took photos. Cylinders 5 and 6 are striped.
11-10-2018, 11:43 PM
#28
For those recommending the factory short block: that might be a cost effective option for folks who can do the work themselves, but shops here tell me that the extra labor will make it cost as much as a rebuilt engine, which will have more new parts and a warranty.
11-11-2018, 03:37 AM
#29
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My story is quite similar and I feel your frustration. Although I have a 2005 3.8L 997.1 C2S. Mild to severe bore scoring was found on four cylinders using a bore scope. What made me check it out was that the oil consumption was getting very high (1L oil per 1,000km). I have no significant noise coming from the engine though and it doesn’t smoke much, only a small puff under hard acceleration. But, the rear end of the car is usually covered in a light film of “oil dust” as I call it and sooty black exhaust tips.
Where I’m located in BC, an engine rebuild with the upgrades, costs the equivalent of $20k USD. The car is worth about $35k USD, which makes it difficult to justify the rebuild. I drive it still, but my plan is to sell it in the Spring. Hopefully it keeps running as well as it is and doesn’t calf before then.
As far as your car goes, used or rebuilt 3.4 and 3.6 engines are almost half the cost of 3.8 and there are a few on eBay. If the problem doesn’t get much worse, just keep driving it and enjoying it.
Where I’m located in BC, an engine rebuild with the upgrades, costs the equivalent of $20k USD. The car is worth about $35k USD, which makes it difficult to justify the rebuild. I drive it still, but my plan is to sell it in the Spring. Hopefully it keeps running as well as it is and doesn’t calf before then.
As far as your car goes, used or rebuilt 3.4 and 3.6 engines are almost half the cost of 3.8 and there are a few on eBay. If the problem doesn’t get much worse, just keep driving it and enjoying it.
11-11-2018, 08:01 AM
#30
Rennlist Member
Drive it!
start a little savings fund on the side for the time when the engine goes. If you put 5k miles a year on the car you may get another 5 or even 10 years out of the engine before it goes.
and, btw, if the engine goes, a nicely optioned lower mileage 99 with a non-running bad engine will bring closer to $7500 or even more if you are willing to wait on the right buyer.
start a little savings fund on the side for the time when the engine goes. If you put 5k miles a year on the car you may get another 5 or even 10 years out of the engine before it goes.
and, btw, if the engine goes, a nicely optioned lower mileage 99 with a non-running bad engine will bring closer to $7500 or even more if you are willing to wait on the right buyer.