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View Poll Results: What type of IMS bearing have you installed?
EPS cylindrical bearing w/ Oil Feed Modification
11
5.29%
LN Single/Dual Retrofit
77
37.02%
LN IMS Solution w/ Oil Fed Plain Bearing
41
19.71%
PedrosGarage TechnoFix Direct Oil Feed (DOF)
2
0.96%
Pelican Parts IMS bearing replacement kit
1
0.48%
Porsche OEM
10
4.81%
TuneRS Motorsports Direct Oil Feed (DOF)
5
2.40%
Other
9
4.33%
No replacement - I'm rolling the dice on this one.
49
23.56%
Don't know, don't care.
3
1.44%
Voters: 208. You may not vote on this poll

What type of IMS bearing have you installed? Take a poll.

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Old 10-06-2018, 11:37 AM
  #46  
TexSquirrel
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Originally Posted by chinnr
I put in the LN (non-oil fed) solution because that's what the shop recommended. Did at at approx. 131,000 miles while I was getting the clutch done. It was a good thing I did, because it did not look good. Had about 1/4" of play in every direction.
WOW!
How many miles does it have now?
They should have stopped the install and dropped the engine.
There had to have been metal all throughout the engine.
Wondering how much longer that’s going to last.
Old 10-06-2018, 02:17 PM
  #47  
NuttyProfessor
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Originally Posted by TexSquirrel


WOW!
How many miles does it have now?
They should have stopped the install and dropped the engine.
There had to have been metal all throughout the engine.
Wondering how much longer that’s going to last.

The guy that did my IMS solution is a certified installer and he did all the pre-qualification steps verbatim. The last step in the pre-qual is when the installer pulls the OEM bearing out of the car and examines it. I was a nervous wreck, but since the ECU evaluation, filter/oil sump inspection, and oil analysis came back clean, we were all pretty positive it wouldn't be a stage 2 or worse. They let me watch the bearing being extracted. When they pulled the bearing, oil came out of the shaft. The seal was pulling from the edges due to heat shrinkage and the center bolt was showing slight bit of play, but fortunately the bearing hadn't made it to stage 2 yet or I would have had heart failure.
Old 10-06-2018, 02:57 PM
  #48  
Charles Navarro
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Originally Posted by chinnr
I put in the LN (non-oil fed) solution because that's what the shop recommended. Did at at approx. 131,000 miles while I was getting the clutch done. It was a good thing I did, because it did not look good. Had about 1/4" of play in every direction.
This is a prime example of what not to do. This engine was already compromised and I bet you the replacement bearing will fail, as we have seen other do so when retrofitted in an engine that would have failed the pre-qualification procedure.

We didn't come up with this procedure to be difficult, but rather to ensure satisfactory results and ensure our product has a exemplary record with no failures. Incomplete or non-qualifying registrations get letters sent out as to why we won't add a vehicle to the database or provide a warranty.

I would ask that you please PM me the vin so we can flag this in our system. If you sell the car and it has a failure, it's my phone they will be calling asking for us to warranty a product that should have never been installed in the first place.

There have been many threads on this topic and I'm going to perfectly clear. If a bearing isn't registered with us or a registration is incomplete, there is no warranty, and the reason is because there are people who will change the bearing like shown here, and when it fails, it's easier to be a victim than a failure.

Likewise, I have people who have emailed LN upset because we won't add their car to the IMS database. It is situations like this that have forced our hand as to how we handle registrations and warranty claims.
Old 10-11-2018, 09:02 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by sgsims1
FYI Pedro uses/sells the TuneRS DoF, so you may want to merge those two.
That's interesting news. No where on his site does he mention such a thing, but at this point I don't think it really matters. Thank you for the input.
Old 10-11-2018, 10:21 PM
  #50  
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LN Single row pro - It turns 4 in a few months. When it turns 6 i'll be replacing it with the solution.
Old 10-12-2018, 02:34 AM
  #51  
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My 99' cab just turned 115k miles on the original IMS with no issues.
(knocking on wood prior to pushing 'send' on this post.)
Old 10-17-2018, 09:52 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by Flat6Music
My 99' cab just turned 115k miles on the original IMS with no issues.
(knocking on wood prior to pushing 'send' on this post.)
Ah yes, you have the original dual row bearing. Nice! Any plans to replace it? Or, are you just gonna to play it by ear (or eyes)? hahaha


p.s. How's the IMS holding up on your Turbo?
Old 10-18-2018, 01:56 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by NuttyProfessor
Ah yes, you have the original dual row bearing. Nice! Any plans to replace it? Or, are you just gonna to play it by ear (or eyes)? hahaha


p.s. How's the IMS holding up on your Turbo?
I'll continue to knock on wood with fingers and toes crossed until the clutch or rear main seal give up the ghost, at which point I'll cash in my chips and do the IMS at the same time.

The Infinite Mischief Supplier that's located within the right pedal of the turbo is thankfully holding up to frequent tickling by my right foot. I've read that they're pretty durable, so I'm very grateful for that 🙂
Old 10-18-2018, 10:52 AM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by Flat6Music


I'll continue to knock on wood with fingers and toes crossed until the clutch or rear main seal give up the ghost, at which point I'll cash in my chips and do the IMS at the same time.

The Infinite Mischief Supplier that's located within the right pedal of the turbo is thankfully holding up to frequent tickling by my right foot. I've read that they're pretty durable, so I'm very grateful for that 🙂
How long has it been since the last clutch change? Is it tougher than the Turbo to engage?

My car had the original clutch (50K miles) when I had it changed out with the IMS solution install. When the tech removed the clutch plate it was worn down to the rivets. I thought it was fine, but when the shop owner drove my car he immediately said, "your clutch is shot!". The new one is effortless. Up until then I just thought the 996 had a characteristically stiffer clutch pedal. I was wrong. Live and learn.
Old 10-18-2018, 05:46 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by NuttyProfessor
I just thought the 996 had a characteristically stiffer clutch pedal. I was wrong. Live and learn.
Same as be until I changed the clutch assistance spring...
Old 10-22-2018, 10:01 AM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by dan_189
Same as be until I changed the clutch assistance spring...
I've heard of people removing this spring in hopes to improve clutch pedal response only to regret it down the road. When my new clutch, I wouldn't change a thing. I'm having a ball! My problem is avoiding over-reving the engine. I'm like a kid in a candy store.
Old 10-22-2018, 05:06 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by NuttyProfessor
I've heard of people removing this spring in hopes to improve clutch pedal response only to regret it down the road. When my new clutch, I wouldn't change a thing. I'm having a ball! My problem is avoiding over-reving the engine. I'm like a kid in a candy store.
Many do remove it, I just replaced it with a new one.

Haha good to hear, enjoy
Old 10-22-2018, 05:18 PM
  #58  
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More than 3000 visitors but only a couple hundreds votes. I'm questioning the results.
Old 10-22-2018, 05:47 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by JB001
More than 3000 visitors but only a couple hundreds votes. I'm questioning the results.
Such is life.
Old 11-02-2018, 10:02 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by chinnr
I put in the LN (non-oil fed) solution because that's what the shop recommended. Did at at approx. 131,000 miles while I was getting the clutch done. It was a good thing I did, because it did not look good. Had about 1/4" of play in every direction.
You never did follow up. I'm curious. How did the shop cleanse your car of the metal that was obviously polluting your car?


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