Brake Pad DIY
#1
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Brake Pad DIY
I was thinking about saving the $150+ in labor it would cost to change the rear brake pads on my '99 C2. Can anyone tell me how involved that job is? Looking at Loren's DIY, it does not look that easy. I'm not totally incompetent (i installed my trip computer, B&M SSK and GHL mufflers), but I hate to tinker with brakes if it's a tough job.
Alternatively, is anyone in the Los Angeles area planning on doing their brake pads in the next 4-8 weeks?
Thanks
David
Alternatively, is anyone in the Los Angeles area planning on doing their brake pads in the next 4-8 weeks?
Thanks
David
#2
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It's very easy: 5 to 15 minutes per wheel (depending on your experience) once it's in the air.
Go for it...
Go for it...
#3
Can you post the link to the DIY please?
#4
It's so easy it's rediculous. Just remember that you will have to bleed your brakes when you compress the pistons to install the pads! So if you're going to do that you might as well change the fluid to the high temp, and well since you're changing the rears you might as well do the fronts with some pagid S's and well might change the lines to stainless. Definitely get the motul bleeder and do the clutch also. And while you're there might as well do the rest of the servicing, that's how I did it.
#5
Nordschleife Master
Originally posted by SPR
It's so easy it's rediculous. Just remember that you will have to bleed your brakes when you compress the pistons to install the pads! So if you're going to do that you might as well change the fluid to the high temp, and well since you're changing the rears you might as well do the fronts with some pagid S's and well might change the lines to stainless. Definitely get the motul bleeder and do the clutch also. And while you're there might as well do the rest of the servicing, that's how I did it.
It's so easy it's rediculous. Just remember that you will have to bleed your brakes when you compress the pistons to install the pads! So if you're going to do that you might as well change the fluid to the high temp, and well since you're changing the rears you might as well do the fronts with some pagid S's and well might change the lines to stainless. Definitely get the motul bleeder and do the clutch also. And while you're there might as well do the rest of the servicing, that's how I did it.
#6
Originally posted by NickS
Can you post the link to the DIY please?
Can you post the link to the DIY please?
You'll need to register with that site to see them though.
#7
it was very easy, i did the second side in 15 mins after i learned how to do it on the first side. only other diy i had done was flush brake fluid with the motive power bleeder. I didnt need to bleed any fluid on the pad change just pushed back the pistons to fit in the new pads. I guess it would be even easier if you remove the calipers but that is gonna be an extra step if you dont need to change the rotors.
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#10
Sean,
I thought the process of bleeding some fluid was done to make it easier to push the pistons back. I didnt realize that pushing them back would introduce air. Are you sure of this? Isnt it a closed system and the only way to introduce air is during brake line changes or things like that. Would you advise me to bleed the system now? thanks
I thought the process of bleeding some fluid was done to make it easier to push the pistons back. I didnt realize that pushing them back would introduce air. Are you sure of this? Isnt it a closed system and the only way to introduce air is during brake line changes or things like that. Would you advise me to bleed the system now? thanks
#11
Hey.
I am pretty sure that it does induce air, but I always error on the safe side and you never know if there was anything in there before. I seem to remember doing the pads without the bleeding and it was a bit spongier but I notice very very minute things because I am crazy!
I am pretty sure that it does induce air, but I always error on the safe side and you never know if there was anything in there before. I seem to remember doing the pads without the bleeding and it was a bit spongier but I notice very very minute things because I am crazy!
#12
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It doesn't put air in the system, but mine generally do feel a bit spongy for the first few miles after I change them.
In any case, unless you just changed the fluid, change it. You may want to upgrade to motul or super blue but in any case, change it. And of course then bleed them.
In any case, unless you just changed the fluid, change it. You may want to upgrade to motul or super blue but in any case, change it. And of course then bleed them.
Originally posted by SPR
Hey.
I am pretty sure that it does induce air, but I always error on the safe side and you never know if there was anything in there before. I seem to remember doing the pads without the bleeding and it was a bit spongier but I notice very very minute things because I am crazy!
Hey.
I am pretty sure that it does induce air, but I always error on the safe side and you never know if there was anything in there before. I seem to remember doing the pads without the bleeding and it was a bit spongier but I notice very very minute things because I am crazy!
Last edited by Patrick; 01-19-2004 at 12:26 AM.
#13
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Pretty soon this operation will be so easy that you will be changing to a track pad for any event. You can quick tie your brake sensors to the caliper cause you will be able to visually check them when you do your "quick change" pad replacement.
Get a battery powered drill and the proper socket for your lug nuts. Then the thing that will take the longest is your placement of the jack, and jacking the car!
Get a battery powered drill and the proper socket for your lug nuts. Then the thing that will take the longest is your placement of the jack, and jacking the car!
#14
Drifting
Unless the brake fluid level is too high there is no reason to remove any fluid before pushing the pistons back in. The capacity of the tank is bigger than you think.
Pushing the pistons all the way back in to the calipers does not induce air into the system. Many ways to do it but since I have wrenches handy I usually use them. You push both pistons in on one side of the caliper at the same time and then put in the pad. Then repeat for the other side of the caliper.
Pushing the pistons all the way back in to the calipers does not induce air into the system. Many ways to do it but since I have wrenches handy I usually use them. You push both pistons in on one side of the caliper at the same time and then put in the pad. Then repeat for the other side of the caliper.
#15
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David,
Make sure that you bed the pads after you install them. This can cause some of the sponginess that people noted.
Tool Pants is correct about pushing the pistons in - there is no way to get air in the system. I use a big pair of channel locks with a rag cover the caliper to prevent damage. Good Luck!
Matt
Make sure that you bed the pads after you install them. This can cause some of the sponginess that people noted.
Tool Pants is correct about pushing the pistons in - there is no way to get air in the system. I use a big pair of channel locks with a rag cover the caliper to prevent damage. Good Luck!
Matt