yelcab

I have a 2001 996 Carrera 4S, with a code 1341. I see some conflicting information about what the part numbers are. Can someone help by posting the part number for the following;

1. Cam advance solenoid,
2. Cam advance actuator (bank 1)

Thanks

Doug996InKC

DELETED - wrong info, sorry about that

yelcab

So, this design has no actuator? Or is it part of that Tensioner gig? And why are they unlikely to be the problem?

yelcab

And that is part of my confusion. There are two adjacent diagrams, 996.1, 996.02/03/04 and they seem to have different thihgg

Ahsai

2001 is 3.4L engine (5 chains) so #7 and #10 are correct.

yelcab

I just verified that is the correct diagram and parts. I plugged in my Durametric and found that after revving a few times, bank 1 cam angle would get stuck at 22 degrees while bank 2 drops back to -4 degree at idle. And the engine is running rough when that happens. My question is...

1. Is the oil solenoid on bank 1 failing
2. Is the tensioner failing to cause the stuck condition at advanced
3. Are both failing?

Parts are really expensive and no need to replace something that is not broken. Thanks,

Ahsai

You need to crack the cam cover in any case. The solenoid can be tested by applying 12v to it and the pin will stick out 1/8" or so. I have not heard of amy bench test available for the actuator. I think disassembling it may yield some clue. Maybe some seal is failing or breaking down causing it to get stuck.

Be careful of the tiny spring and plunger orientation. Has the engine always been like this?

Ahsai

Ask Schnell Gelb .He's here on RL also. He can prolly do it blindfolded.

https://www.renntech.org/forums/topi...w-limit-value/

dkraige

You may find this thread useful:

https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...cam-p1341.html

In my case it was the internal seals on the piston in the actuator that had disintegrated, causing sticky action.

yelcab

So you do have the 5 chain motor?

dkraige

Yes.

yelcab

I think I am having the same problem as you did. The electrical signals are fine because I can see the cam values change. Bank 1 stuck high after a few engine revs while bank 2 drops. So changing the actuator chain tensioner it is. I am going to take the engine out and do a few things too, an IMS update is planned.

dkraige

If you've been seeing any little bits of green rubber in your oil filter, I can almost guarantee your issue is the same as mine. If not, then I'm not so sure, but the behavior sure seems similar.

yelcab

Yes, little bits of green seal material was found in the oil filter housing last night when I drained the oil in preparation for an engine out... The culprit showed itself, finally.

dkraige

Almost certainly that actuator is your issue then. How many miles on your engine? Mine was about 80k when it started acting up. I'm wondering how long until the passenger side bank fails in the same manner. There was no economy of scale for me to replace both at the same time since I didn't remove the engine, but since you're taking your engine out, you might consider doing both sides at once since it would only cost you the extra actuator (which of course is not cheap!) and a few gaskets. You should replace the spark plug tube O-rings, oil scavenge pump seals, cam shaft caps, etc while you're in there, but those are trivial compared to the cost of the actuator and the engine removal.