Jammed engine
#16
Hi Guys
Thanks for all the suggestions still working on them in turn
I have no other background on this car
I bought it from a guy who bought it from an auction the previous owner was significantly absent
So I do not know the lead up to the demise of the engine sadly
The rest of the car has been neglected but is remarkably sound
All the pulleys turn even just the 1/4 turn is enough to see that although there may still be an issue further round the turn so I will remove the belts next
I will post all results as they happen
Trevor
Thanks for all the suggestions still working on them in turn
I have no other background on this car
I bought it from a guy who bought it from an auction the previous owner was significantly absent
So I do not know the lead up to the demise of the engine sadly
The rest of the car has been neglected but is remarkably sound
All the pulleys turn even just the 1/4 turn is enough to see that although there may still be an issue further round the turn so I will remove the belts next
I will post all results as they happen
Trevor
#17
Hi folks
Finally found time to pull the spark plugs and thick oil/water mixture flowed from cylinders 1 and 6
So it was hydrolocked thanks to all who predicted that.
Engine now rotates freely on the starter with no nasty noises
I am imagining that it is a cylinder head gasket issue.
#18
Cylinder head gaskets rarely fail on these engines. You have oil on both sides so I suspect the oil came in via the intake. AOS? There are rennlisters far more knowledgeable than I am that can give you potential causes. I suspect you will have to do some additional investigation. Did the other cylinders contain any oil?
I would crank the engine without the spark plugs installed and see what it sounds like. Hydolocking leads to bent connecting rods.
If you have a failed air oil separator, which to me seems likely, you will need to replace it prior to running the engine.
I would crank the engine without the spark plugs installed and see what it sounds like. Hydolocking leads to bent connecting rods.
If you have a failed air oil separator, which to me seems likely, you will need to replace it prior to running the engine.
#19
Next step is to obtain a bore scope to inspect cylinder walls thru spark plug holes, then remove oil sump plate to inspect cylinders from the bottom. Only rotate engine clockwise!
Head gaskets never fail once properly installed.
Head gaskets never fail once properly installed.
#20
Flush the coolant system out with lots of water and Dawn, you gotta get all that oil away from your rubber hoses or they will be chemically damaged and ALL need replacement.
I think there is a way of rigging something up with a hosepipe, others have done it so do some searching on here.
I think there is a way of rigging something up with a hosepipe, others have done it so do some searching on here.
#21
Hi
It cranks over just fine with no noises or any untoward issues
However I thought that the coolant tank was full and the oil level ok
It turns out that the coolant 'level' that i could see was just a false line on the inside of the expansion tank
Upon checking with the top off there is no coolant visible.
The oil appears to be remarkably clean with no contamination.
Oils separator next then
4 of the cylinders are dry and the spark plugs dry and clean as can be seen from the picture
Thanks for all the observations and help so far.
It cranks over just fine with no noises or any untoward issues
However I thought that the coolant tank was full and the oil level ok
It turns out that the coolant 'level' that i could see was just a false line on the inside of the expansion tank
Upon checking with the top off there is no coolant visible.
The oil appears to be remarkably clean with no contamination.
Oils separator next then
4 of the cylinders are dry and the spark plugs dry and clean as can be seen from the picture
Thanks for all the observations and help so far.
#26