What RPM Do You Drive At
02-06-2018, 02:53 PM
#16
Aw, don't sell yourself short.
Cruising around at 3500 just wastes gas and makes you look like a tool. run the car at whatever gear is appropriate for the situation. sometimes thats 2000rpm, other times its 4500rpm. dont lug it (pretty hard to do in a 996) but no point zinging along at 3500rpm when you arent planning on accelerating either
I have a Jack Raby Stage II engine and he advises not to run at 2,200 - 2,400 RPM - stress on the valve train components is highest there. It's a Tip so I have to pay a little more attention, manual mode probably used more that auto mode.
And I'd rather spend my money on upgrades and maintenance and fun driving opportunities than extra gas so I am also mindful of unnecessary revs.
And I'd rather spend my money on upgrades and maintenance and fun driving opportunities than extra gas so I am also mindful of unnecessary revs.
02-06-2018, 03:44 PM
#17
Race Director
02-06-2018, 03:57 PM
#18
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Snarky bunch in here. Generally, just be reasonable. My reputable indy gave me the following pointers:
1. Don't warm the car up in idle, take off right away and keep in under 3K when cold (I interpret as ~20 min)
2. When warm, don't shift under 4K (which probably means don't drop below 3) - even in stop and go traffic (i.e. keep in 1st)
I don't follow that last part so strictly. I generally just try to keep it above 3 when warm unless in stop and go traffic. That means sometimes driving at ~4 because speeds don't allow 3 in the next gear up. Canyons consistently at 4 - 6.5. Note, if you drive like this, your emissions readiness my may not clear if you've detached your battery at some point.
1. Don't warm the car up in idle, take off right away and keep in under 3K when cold (I interpret as ~20 min)
2. When warm, don't shift under 4K (which probably means don't drop below 3) - even in stop and go traffic (i.e. keep in 1st)
I don't follow that last part so strictly. I generally just try to keep it above 3 when warm unless in stop and go traffic. That means sometimes driving at ~4 because speeds don't allow 3 in the next gear up. Canyons consistently at 4 - 6.5. Note, if you drive like this, your emissions readiness my may not clear if you've detached your battery at some point.
02-06-2018, 04:09 PM
#20
02-06-2018, 04:29 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
Snarky bunch in here. Generally, just be reasonable. My reputable indy gave me the following pointers:
1. Don't warm the car up in idle, take off right away and keep in under 3K when cold (I interpret as ~20 min)
2. When warm, don't shift under 4K (which probably means don't drop below 3) - even in stop and go traffic (i.e. keep in 1st)
I don't follow that last part so strictly. I generally just try to keep it above 3 when warm unless in stop and go traffic. That means sometimes driving at ~4 because speeds don't allow 3 in the next gear up. Canyons consistently at 4 - 6.5. Note, if you drive like this, your emissions readiness my may not clear if you've detached your battery at some point.
1. Don't warm the car up in idle, take off right away and keep in under 3K when cold (I interpret as ~20 min)
2. When warm, don't shift under 4K (which probably means don't drop below 3) - even in stop and go traffic (i.e. keep in 1st)
I don't follow that last part so strictly. I generally just try to keep it above 3 when warm unless in stop and go traffic. That means sometimes driving at ~4 because speeds don't allow 3 in the next gear up. Canyons consistently at 4 - 6.5. Note, if you drive like this, your emissions readiness my may not clear if you've detached your battery at some point.
I cannot agree with don't warm up car.
Disclaimer, that is generally speaking.
I guess if you live on the southwest, where 100 degree days are normal , I can see your point .
But in the Northeast, even during warmer months, mornings can be down in 40s.
So driving any car, without a warm up is not good for cold metal parts that have not expanded to normal, within operating temperature.
my 2 cents
02-06-2018, 04:37 PM
#22
I think "don't warm up the car", i.e. idle..is pretty standard advice nowadays. Car will warm up faster being driven at lower RPM's and...I believe...importantly it is better for the car (oil and cylinders) not to be dumping gas into a low rpm running engine. 3000 rpm is better than 850 rpm or whatever these cars idle.
Not an expert but that is my take.
Not an expert but that is my take.
02-06-2018, 04:58 PM
#24
Drifting
Which RPMs do you drive in?
All of them.
All of them.
02-06-2018, 05:17 PM
#25
Race Director
Sorry
I cannot agree with don't warm up car.
Disclaimer, that is generally speaking.
I guess if you live on the southwest, where 100 degree days are normal , I can see your point .
But in the Northeast, even during warmer months, mornings can be down in 40s.
So driving any car, without a warm up is not good for cold metal parts that have not expanded to normal, within operating temperature.
my 2 cents
I cannot agree with don't warm up car.
Disclaimer, that is generally speaking.
I guess if you live on the southwest, where 100 degree days are normal , I can see your point .
But in the Northeast, even during warmer months, mornings can be down in 40s.
So driving any car, without a warm up is not good for cold metal parts that have not expanded to normal, within operating temperature.
my 2 cents
02-06-2018, 05:43 PM
#26
I have to agree with Alexander Hamilton on this one.
The main issue with the warm-up is you douse the cylinders in fuel. Similar to leaky injectors, which is a major contributor to compromised cylinders in the m96, rinsing cylinder walls in unspent fuel is not the preferred approach. As fuel's a solvent, it can break down cylinder walls and contribute to things like scoring, d-chunk & ovalling. This is summarized from a recent PCA video, but it's a fairly common misconception that's been addressed formally on the forum. It's not an ego-petting match, it's just common sense. The safe way to warm up is to get out and drive reasonably until the car warms up.
Of course, once it's warmed up, I trust that you'll take exceptional care to maximize your fuel economy because that's why we drive 911s. For the fuel economy.
The main issue with the warm-up is you douse the cylinders in fuel. Similar to leaky injectors, which is a major contributor to compromised cylinders in the m96, rinsing cylinder walls in unspent fuel is not the preferred approach. As fuel's a solvent, it can break down cylinder walls and contribute to things like scoring, d-chunk & ovalling. This is summarized from a recent PCA video, but it's a fairly common misconception that's been addressed formally on the forum. It's not an ego-petting match, it's just common sense. The safe way to warm up is to get out and drive reasonably until the car warms up.
Of course, once it's warmed up, I trust that you'll take exceptional care to maximize your fuel economy because that's why we drive 911s. For the fuel economy.
Sorry
I cannot agree with don't warm up car .
Disclaimer, that is generally speaking.
I guess if you live on the southwest, where 100 degree days are normal , I can see your point .
But in the Northeast, even during warmer months, mornings can be down in 40s .
So driving any car, without a warm up is not good for cold metal parts that have not expanded to normal, within operating temperature.
my 2 cents
I cannot agree with don't warm up car .
Disclaimer, that is generally speaking.
I guess if you live on the southwest, where 100 degree days are normal , I can see your point .
But in the Northeast, even during warmer months, mornings can be down in 40s .
So driving any car, without a warm up is not good for cold metal parts that have not expanded to normal, within operating temperature.
my 2 cents
02-06-2018, 05:55 PM
#27
It was -13F here in MN this morning and the shifter hardly wants to shift because everything is so cold... i find it hard to believe that this is better for the car than allowing it to warm up a little.
02-06-2018, 06:03 PM
#28
Drifting
Thirty to sixty seconds would be fine, but after that you are doing more bad than good. The cars are designed to be driven lightly when cold in order to warm up faster, not idled for warm up for reasons already mentioned.
02-06-2018, 07:02 PM
#30
Rennlist Member
