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Old 02-05-2018, 06:30 PM
  #16  
mrjonger
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I did not lower it all the way. The memory is fuzzy, but lower incrementally while keeping an eye everything and making sure that not is going to break loose. There was some stuff clipped to both the engine compartment and the block.

The clips on the hoses were also a pain. The Porsche clamp tool was useless, channel locks were much better - I suggest you get a pair of those. You will have to fidget and massage the tank out when pulling it. You will likely get some good cuts on the hands and you may curse a great deal. Pelican has a tutorial and I'm sure a Google search will be helpful. I did the same thing Rockhouse did. Its not the tank you notch, it's the mount. You'll see when you get there. Try to avoid cuttng a way a piece of the mount (I think I could avoid it now if I had to - using a different assortment of tools) - but if you do, a Dremel is also handy.

Good luck, post up if you get stuck.
Old 02-05-2018, 06:59 PM
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Nickshu
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These worked great for me with the clips:

Amazon Amazon

Amazon Amazon

I have the remote cable type pliers too but found these most useful. The straight ones are what I used the most.
Old 02-05-2018, 07:01 PM
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Nickshu
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FWIW here's a photo of mine...engine lowered down on the engine mount stud nut as low as it will go, left side intake out, coolant tank out.

Last edited by Nickshu; 02-06-2018 at 02:30 PM.
Old 02-05-2018, 11:58 PM
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az968gpw
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This is sounding like,e a two beer job, ugh.
Old 02-06-2018, 12:11 PM
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joseph mitro
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Originally Posted by mrjonger
... and you may curse a great deal.
LOL that's so true it's quotable!
Old 02-06-2018, 01:13 PM
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Nickshu
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Yup...while you are in there...New AOS, New Starter/Alternator Y-cable, New oil filler tube, Check condition of vacuum lines that are on top of the engine if these things have not been done already.
Old 02-06-2018, 01:16 PM
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az968gpw
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F6I rebuilt the engine as a Stage II 16k miles ago so all the internals are good, but worth looking at wiring and vacuum lines. Guess a good going-over will be a good idea.
Old 02-06-2018, 02:30 PM
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Ahsai
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Originally Posted by az968gpw
I have an 04 C2 Cab with 47k miles. Planning a coolant change, it's time, and thinking about replacing the coolant tank while I'm at it. ($145 part). Haven't seen a leak but i know they will crack eventually. Is this a good time for PM, what age do they start failing?

I was also told by my parts supplier that the engine on the 04 has to be lowered slightly to let the tank clear. Does anyone know if that's the case and what has to be done to do that? Is that a big deal ($$)?

Maybe this is a better "if it ain't broke don't fix it" situation?

Thanks.
Make that "lowered slightly" to "lowered to the max" with the O2 sensors connectors disconnected so not to strain those wires. Then you will find that the hex cap on the left fuel rail will prevent the tank from freeing. You can remove that nut (carefully counter it with a wrench/crow foot on the rail and make sure you don't drop anything inside the fuel rail) or another way is to remove the black tank bracket but reinstalling the bracket with the new tank in place will not be easy.
Old 02-06-2018, 04:02 PM
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mrjonger
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I stand corrected. Do whatever Ahsai tells you.
Old 02-06-2018, 04:31 PM
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Ahsai
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^I don't see anything wrong with your suggestion....always more than one way to skin a cat



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