2000 996 - Frustrated after 1 Month of Ownership - Any suggestions?
#16
My recommendation is to get it to a reputable indy in your area ASAP. I am sure there are a few near/in Rhode Island, get in touch with a local PCA member or two for a good shop. Get them to do a P(ost)PI, find out what is going on and set your baseline with this new car.
#17
I appreciate everyone's feedback.....I'm actually feeling better about this and my mind is focused on a few key things that need to get done. I've just been feeling that way about a fix, like when I replaced the spark plugs, and then find out two days later that it didn't fix the issue....or when I replaced the reservoir tank, and continue to get leaks.....I can chalk all of this up to my inexperience though, and I'm learning a TON as I go, and from many guys like you and your own personal stories. It's actually part of what made me want to get a 996, because I'm enjoying learning how to do these things myself, and knowing that I am able to do these fixes myself.
First step for me, I'm getting the Airlift Tool and going to pressure test the system, hopefully fix what the issue is, drain, and refill it correctly with the correct tool and not worry about air pockets. When I drain from the drain plug, I'm only getting about half the coolant out of there. Do you guys think it's alright to drain it that way and refill it? Or, should I be disconnecting all the hoses near the radiators and getting the remaining couple gallons out of there? When pressure testing, what exactly am I looking for? I'm assuming if it's a crack or hole in a hose, it'll be noticeable......But if that's not the case, should I be looking for seepage? If it's a crack underneath the expansion tank, would I be able to immediately recognize that, considering that I cannot easily see under there with the tank in place?
I'm confident that I should be able to trace the issue with the tank/hoses once I get a pressure system and check it that way. Assuming I can trace the issue, and adequately fix it, I'll begin to address the mis-firing cylinders...... and it seems that my best bet would be to bring it to a shop at that point, because I wouldn't know really where to begin, besides possibly re-doing the spark plugs/coils again, in case I didn't get one of them seated properly......and if that's the case I would probably replace the Spark Plug tubes at that point, because I was unable to figure out how to remove them when I changed the plugs/coils, until i found out about the boat plug/bicycle tube trick.
First step for me, I'm getting the Airlift Tool and going to pressure test the system, hopefully fix what the issue is, drain, and refill it correctly with the correct tool and not worry about air pockets. When I drain from the drain plug, I'm only getting about half the coolant out of there. Do you guys think it's alright to drain it that way and refill it? Or, should I be disconnecting all the hoses near the radiators and getting the remaining couple gallons out of there? When pressure testing, what exactly am I looking for? I'm assuming if it's a crack or hole in a hose, it'll be noticeable......But if that's not the case, should I be looking for seepage? If it's a crack underneath the expansion tank, would I be able to immediately recognize that, considering that I cannot easily see under there with the tank in place?
I'm confident that I should be able to trace the issue with the tank/hoses once I get a pressure system and check it that way. Assuming I can trace the issue, and adequately fix it, I'll begin to address the mis-firing cylinders...... and it seems that my best bet would be to bring it to a shop at that point, because I wouldn't know really where to begin, besides possibly re-doing the spark plugs/coils again, in case I didn't get one of them seated properly......and if that's the case I would probably replace the Spark Plug tubes at that point, because I was unable to figure out how to remove them when I changed the plugs/coils, until i found out about the boat plug/bicycle tube trick.
#18
How did he act BEFORE you gave him $18,000? Probably a 180 degree attitude, huh?... like overly embellished the "Porsche experience" and the car was amazing example of a 911 yadda yadda yadda???
Not trying to add insult to injury, but unless you have something in writing regarding the condition of the vehicle or if you have any documentation that would make the transaction fraudulent, then you don't have a leg to stand on with this guy. An oral contract or car salesman's oral guarantee is about as good legally as the paper it's written on. Did you sign a bill of sale that designated the car was sold "as-is, with no warranty or guarantee"??? Try to look on the bright side... this car may not be in such bad condition, and as others have mentioned, it would be wise to take it immediately to respected Porsche shop and have an estimate done for repair. Let's hope the engine does not have a serious problem like a cracked block.
Not trying to add insult to injury, but unless you have something in writing regarding the condition of the vehicle or if you have any documentation that would make the transaction fraudulent, then you don't have a leg to stand on with this guy. An oral contract or car salesman's oral guarantee is about as good legally as the paper it's written on. Did you sign a bill of sale that designated the car was sold "as-is, with no warranty or guarantee"??? Try to look on the bright side... this car may not be in such bad condition, and as others have mentioned, it would be wise to take it immediately to respected Porsche shop and have an estimate done for repair. Let's hope the engine does not have a serious problem like a cracked block.
Brother I agree with you 100%... I'm not trying to get my money back or anything, because I know what's done is done......It's also the reason why I haven't continued to call this guy and tell him my story, because he'll pull the "it was as-is" card, and it's 100% true....Whenever I have sold my own personal cars, the first thing I did was tell the person every little thing that was wrong with it, because that's just what comes normal to me.....I guess everyone is different and will do whatever they need to do in order to make an extra $500 on a sale. I'm not looking to deal with him again, and his reputation and way of doing business will catch up to him eventually, if it hasn't already. I'm just curious if he knowingly knew about issues ahead of time, advertised it as "needs nothing mechanically", and just tried to hide the issues temporarily to get the sale. Even if that's the case, not much I can do, and it would lead to me just telling him off, and feeling aggravated.
#20
I changed the oil two weeks ago and it looked normal to me....and when I drained the coolant this past weekend when replacing the reservoir tank, the coolant appeared normal also. Luckily, no milkshakes!
#21
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I'm just curious if he knowingly knew about issues ahead of time, advertised it as "needs nothing mechanically", and just tried to hide the issues temporarily to get the sale. Even if that's the case, not much I can do, and it would lead to me just telling him off, and feeling aggravated.
#22
I'm just a novice compared to the others on here. But sounds like to me that coolant leak wasn't addressed, and now it's leaking coolant on to your plugs and is likely fouling them and causing misfires. That might account for 3 of the 4 cylinders showing misfires. Either way, I'd take a second look at all the coolant tank, hoses, spark plugs, and ignition coils. Also take a look at the spark plug tubes to confirm that you didn't crack any during the repair. It could also be as simple as loose ignition coil.
Good luck. These cars are old, things break all the time. The $1500 - $2K is likely not going to cut it. There's stretches where nothing goes wrong, and then all of a sudden you need a crapload of work. A while back there was a thread where many people said it was more like $500 a month average. But at $18K, I don't think there's something else that will offer the same experience.
Edit: That valve on top the cap is pressure operated. It opens when warm. Also, the coolant should be filled bottom line, not the top. It expands when hot. If you are overfilling, it could just be coming from the cap. Either way, I think you need to check those spark plugs again - with coolant splashing on them, there's a good chance their fouled.
Good luck. These cars are old, things break all the time. The $1500 - $2K is likely not going to cut it. There's stretches where nothing goes wrong, and then all of a sudden you need a crapload of work. A while back there was a thread where many people said it was more like $500 a month average. But at $18K, I don't think there's something else that will offer the same experience.
Edit: That valve on top the cap is pressure operated. It opens when warm. Also, the coolant should be filled bottom line, not the top. It expands when hot. If you are overfilling, it could just be coming from the cap. Either way, I think you need to check those spark plugs again - with coolant splashing on them, there's a good chance their fouled.
Last edited by mrjonger; 11-30-2017 at 04:12 PM.
#23
Rennlist Member
All rubber and plastic pieces at 15-18 years old will start to fail at the worst time.
#24
I appreciate everyone's feedback.....I'm actually feeling better about this and my mind is focused on a few key things that need to get done. I've just been feeling that way about a fix, like when I replaced the spark plugs, and then find out two days later that it didn't fix the issue....or when I replaced the reservoir tank, and continue to get leaks.....I can chalk all of this up to my inexperience though, and I'm learning a TON as I go, and from many guys like you and your own personal stories. It's actually part of what made me want to get a 996, because I'm enjoying learning how to do these things myself, and knowing that I am able to do these fixes myself.
First step for me, I'm getting the Airlift Tool and going to pressure test the system, hopefully fix what the issue is, drain, and refill it correctly with the correct tool and not worry about air pockets. When I drain from the drain plug, I'm only getting about half the coolant out of there. Do you guys think it's alright to drain it that way and refill it? Or, should I be disconnecting all the hoses near the radiators and getting the remaining couple gallons out of there? When pressure testing, what exactly am I looking for? I'm assuming if it's a crack or hole in a hose, it'll be noticeable......But if that's not the case, should I be looking for seepage? If it's a crack underneath the expansion tank, would I be able to immediately recognize that, considering that I cannot easily see under there with the tank in place?
I'm confident that I should be able to trace the issue with the tank/hoses once I get a pressure system and check it that way. Assuming I can trace the issue, and adequately fix it, I'll begin to address the mis-firing cylinders...... and it seems that my best bet would be to bring it to a shop at that point, because I wouldn't know really where to begin, besides possibly re-doing the spark plugs/coils again, in case I didn't get one of them seated properly......and if that's the case I would probably replace the Spark Plug tubes at that point, because I was unable to figure out how to remove them when I changed the plugs/coils, until i found out about the boat plug/bicycle tube trick.
First step for me, I'm getting the Airlift Tool and going to pressure test the system, hopefully fix what the issue is, drain, and refill it correctly with the correct tool and not worry about air pockets. When I drain from the drain plug, I'm only getting about half the coolant out of there. Do you guys think it's alright to drain it that way and refill it? Or, should I be disconnecting all the hoses near the radiators and getting the remaining couple gallons out of there? When pressure testing, what exactly am I looking for? I'm assuming if it's a crack or hole in a hose, it'll be noticeable......But if that's not the case, should I be looking for seepage? If it's a crack underneath the expansion tank, would I be able to immediately recognize that, considering that I cannot easily see under there with the tank in place?
I'm confident that I should be able to trace the issue with the tank/hoses once I get a pressure system and check it that way. Assuming I can trace the issue, and adequately fix it, I'll begin to address the mis-firing cylinders...... and it seems that my best bet would be to bring it to a shop at that point, because I wouldn't know really where to begin, besides possibly re-doing the spark plugs/coils again, in case I didn't get one of them seated properly......and if that's the case I would probably replace the Spark Plug tubes at that point, because I was unable to figure out how to remove them when I changed the plugs/coils, until i found out about the boat plug/bicycle tube trick.
https://rennlist.com/forums/996-foru...pump-tips.html
#25
On the plus side, the things you've already done that haven't fixed the problems are not wasted. Those are maintenance items that likely needed to be done anyway. I would probably replace the water pump at some point as well. Good luck with your troubleshooting.
#26
I appreciate everyone's feedback.....I'm actually feeling better about this and my mind is focused on a few key things that need to get done. I've just been feeling that way about a fix, like when I replaced the spark plugs, and then find out two days later that it didn't fix the issue....or when I replaced the reservoir tank, and continue to get leaks.....I can chalk all of this up to my inexperience though, and I'm learning a TON as I go, and from many guys like you and your own personal stories. It's actually part of what made me want to get a 996, because I'm enjoying learning how to do these things myself, and knowing that I am able to do these fixes myself.
First step for me, I'm getting the Airlift Tool and going to pressure test the system, hopefully fix what the issue is, drain, and refill it correctly with the correct tool and not worry about air pockets. When I drain from the drain plug, I'm only getting about half the coolant out of there. Do you guys think it's alright to drain it that way and refill it? Or, should I be disconnecting all the hoses near the radiators and getting the remaining couple gallons out of there? When pressure testing, what exactly am I looking for? I'm assuming if it's a crack or hole in a hose, it'll be noticeable......But if that's not the case, should I be looking for seepage? If it's a crack underneath the expansion tank, would I be able to immediately recognize that, considering that I cannot easily see under there with the tank in place?
I'm confident that I should be able to trace the issue with the tank/hoses once I get a pressure system and check it that way. Assuming I can trace the issue, and adequately fix it, I'll begin to address the mis-firing cylinders...... and it seems that my best bet would be to bring it to a shop at that point, because I wouldn't know really where to begin, besides possibly re-doing the spark plugs/coils again, in case I didn't get one of them seated properly......and if that's the case I would probably replace the Spark Plug tubes at that point, because I was unable to figure out how to remove them when I changed the plugs/coils, until i found out about the boat plug/bicycle tube trick.
First step for me, I'm getting the Airlift Tool and going to pressure test the system, hopefully fix what the issue is, drain, and refill it correctly with the correct tool and not worry about air pockets. When I drain from the drain plug, I'm only getting about half the coolant out of there. Do you guys think it's alright to drain it that way and refill it? Or, should I be disconnecting all the hoses near the radiators and getting the remaining couple gallons out of there? When pressure testing, what exactly am I looking for? I'm assuming if it's a crack or hole in a hose, it'll be noticeable......But if that's not the case, should I be looking for seepage? If it's a crack underneath the expansion tank, would I be able to immediately recognize that, considering that I cannot easily see under there with the tank in place?
I'm confident that I should be able to trace the issue with the tank/hoses once I get a pressure system and check it that way. Assuming I can trace the issue, and adequately fix it, I'll begin to address the mis-firing cylinders...... and it seems that my best bet would be to bring it to a shop at that point, because I wouldn't know really where to begin, besides possibly re-doing the spark plugs/coils again, in case I didn't get one of them seated properly......and if that's the case I would probably replace the Spark Plug tubes at that point, because I was unable to figure out how to remove them when I changed the plugs/coils, until i found out about the boat plug/bicycle tube trick.
Misfires on multiple cylinders on new coils would be very odd regardless how much coolant is dripping on them. Once you have the coolant leak sorted out, I would double check your work on the coils and if it all checks out, look for vacuum leaks at the common problem areas. Good luck!
#27
Rennlist Member
#28
where's that leak?
I had a real weirdo leak in my '03. The fluid always showed up under the car on the drivers side floor of my garage, but not immediately after driving. The day after driving I would open the garage door, and there was a puddle of coolant on the floor. I could smell coolant burning after the car was driven, when I stopped for gas for example, so I knew it was dripping on hot engine, but could never find the leak actively leaking. One day I set up a chair behind the car after I had driven it, sat down and stared. 2 hours after the car was parked there was quite a leak. It is hard to describe the location, I can text you a picture of the area if you PM me. The parts are
999-512-633-00
996-106-223-52
996-106-226-52
999-512-568-01
999-512-633-00
996-106-223-52
996-106-226-52
999-512-568-01
#29
I had a real weirdo leak in my '03. The fluid always showed up under the car on the drivers side floor of my garage, but not immediately after driving. The day after driving I would open the garage door, and there was a puddle of coolant on the floor. I could smell coolant burning after the car was driven, when I stopped for gas for example, so I knew it was dripping on hot engine, but could never find the leak actively leaking. One day I set up a chair behind the car after I had driven it, sat down and stared. 2 hours after the car was parked there was quite a leak. It is hard to describe the location, I can text you a picture of the area if you PM me. The parts are
999-512-633-00
996-106-223-52
996-106-226-52
999-512-568-01
999-512-633-00
996-106-223-52
996-106-226-52
999-512-568-01