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had mine on for a couple weeks now. loved them on the smooth roads set at 10 front 10 rear on clicks but found them to rough for city and backed them off to 14 each. Was relatively easy to adjust but did need to used a jack on front to get some clearance to reach bottom of the strut to turn. right all the way then left as many clicks as wanted up to 20. rear need to take out a bolt inside the bose subwoofer(pop off the surround cover) and hex on both seat clips on side then panel pops off and can get into turning the rear ****. Install was done by indy shop who said relatively straight forward, used the ohlins pasm delete kit.
I just dropped mine off with the car at the local Indy. Added Tarett top mounts Fr and Rr. Included the knowledge from this thread, and hope to get the car back on Friday for a Sunday track day...Fingers 🤞!
I just dropped mine off with the car at the local Indy. Added Tarett top mounts Fr and Rr. Included the knowledge from this thread, and hope to get the car back on Friday for a Sunday track day...Fingers 🤞!
Do you mind sharing how much you got quoted for the alignment?
I’m done with my installation and looking for an alignment shop.
my priority is TunesRS, as it is right around the corner from me, and specializes in Porsches.
they are asking $435 for 4 wheels alignment, and $375 for corner weight balance (and Hight adjustments), that is needed before the alignment itself.
So, its $810 just for labor.
Now, since I’m lowering the car, I might need to add rear toe control arms at $596 installed, and front “bump steer” kit for $395 installed.
That is total of $1927 including tax.
Even if I buy the parts and do the installation myself, I’m looking at around $1400 .
Now. the parts needed, and the whole process make sense with the explanations, but at the end of the day, I need the car set up for a street use only.
Did anyone of you guys needed to go thru all this addons and adjustments?
Just curious to know if it is really necessary for a street setup.
Do you mind sharing how much you got quoted for the alignment?
I’m done with my installation and looking for an alignment shop.
my priority is TunesRS, as it is right around the corner from me, and specializes in Porsches.
they are asking $435 for 4 wheels alignment, and $375 for corner weight balance (and Hight adjustments), that is needed before the alignment itself.
So, its $810 just for labor.
Now, since I’m lowering the car, I might need to add rear toe control arms at $596 installed, and front “bump steer” kit for $395 installed.
That is total of $1927 including tax.
Even if I buy the parts and do the installation myself, I’m looking at around $1400 .
Now. the parts needed, and the whole process make sense with the explanations, but at the end of the day, I need the car set up for a street use only.
Did anyone of you guys needed to go thru all this addons and adjustments?
Just curious to know if it is really necessary for a street setup.
You do not need a bump steer kit or control arms unless you are slamming the car to the ground. I’m the OP and still have these on my 991. Dropped mine about 25 mm.
You do not need a bump steer kit or control arms unless you are slamming the car to the ground. I’m the OP and still have these on my 991. Dropped mine about 25 mm.
thanks Ryan.
so i guess i will try to go as close as possible to stock height.
I paid around $250 for an alignment. This was to custom (Kusmaul) GT3 specs.
You can lower quite a bit without custom bits.
Why install height adjustable suspension if you are going to stay stock height? Sure, maybe corner balancing, but if you're doing that, you're probably racing and would be lowered...
I paid around $250 for an alignment. This was to custom (Kusmaul GT3 specs).
You can lower quite a bit without custom bits.
Why install height adjustable suspension if you are going to stay stock height? Sure, maybe corner balancing, but if you're doing that, you're probably racing and would be lowered...
that's the thing. i'm not going to be racing, so i doubt the need for the corner balancing at $375. also $435 for alignment sounds to much for me.
im looking for the right setup (hight, camber , caster and toe numbers ) for street use.
Do you mind sharing how much you got quoted for the alignment?
I’m done with my installation and looking for an alignment shop.
my priority is TunesRS, as it is right around the corner from me, and specializes in Porsches.
they are asking $435 for 4 wheels alignment, and $375 for corner weight balance (and Hight adjustments), that is needed before the alignment itself.
So, its $810 just for labor.
Now, since I’m lowering the car, I might need to add rear toe control arms at $596 installed, and front “bump steer” kit for $395 installed.
That is total of $1927 including tax.
Even if I buy the parts and do the installation myself, I’m looking at around $1400 .
Now. the parts needed, and the whole process make sense with the explanations, but at the end of the day, I need the car set up for a street use only.
Did anyone of you guys needed to go thru all this addons and adjustments?
Just curious to know if it is really necessary for a street setup.
Just my thoughts:
1). Quote for alignment: I will PM you, not terribly different than your number
2). Rear toe control arms: I do recommend these & you will notice a difference. As mentioned not so much for lowering, but for high speed stability and steering precision. I have tried with and without on my 996.1 and 996.2. You will notice it on the street, again at higher speeds (straights and winding roads).
3). Bump steer kit: not needed for a street car at all. I added to my 996.1 (mostly) track car after it had significant bump steer issues (it is very low).
I just dropped mine off with the car at the local Indy. Added Tarett top mounts Fr and Rr. Included the knowledge from this thread, and hope to get the car back on Friday for a Sunday track day...Fingers 🤞!
Picked car up and 2 track days in the books. I Impressions...Really happy so far. My alignment is off, so a full review will be in a few weeks, but here are my settings so far.
Originally set at 3 clicks back from full firm. Higher rate springs from H&R did not fit, so went with Ohlins.
Track 1 Waterford Hills (smooth track): Settings worked great, no complaints, PB time✅
Track 2 Grattan (some bumps): Rr same, Fr a little firm for the bumps. For Fr, tried 7 back from soft (way too soft), then settled on 8 back from full firm. Felt fantastic, PB time✅
Fr alignment is -3.2 camber (too much!), need to have the Fr Tarett plates re-installed with normal camber, then the target will be ~-2.5. Mid-Ohio in 2 weeks, will report back then.
Hi all thought I might chime in with my review of the Ohlins on a 996 C2.
This is my second set of Ohlins with my first being on my E46 M3.
Vehicle: Stock
Tires: 18" Michelin Pilot Sport 4 FR: 36 PSI, RE: 42 PSI
Front Damper Settings: 15
Rear Damper Settings 18
Installation: Pretty straight forwards and easy, only not enjoyable part was compressing the springs to get the old washers from the old dampers. Also there is no step in the front dampers so you need to double check where the location of the dampers as you clamp them in.
A note of the front springs, on mine the front adjuster collar really doesnt have much range. There are no more threads to increase spring preload and decreasing spring pre load the spring will become loose and have a range at full droop where it is unseated. Would be nice if they included a spacer or longer springs to place the adjustment collars in the middle of the front damper.
Rears dampers where very easy to install.
80% of my driving is on mountain roads. I think the spring rates are a little too high for the majority street driving and are biased towards track driving more. Im probably going to get softer front and rear springs going to start around 20-30% software rates front and rear.
A couple of noticeable changes:
Rear range of motion is decreased, it has less length full droop. This is noticeable when you hit a mid corner rear bump and the rear wheel can go airborn. Coupled with stiff rear springs, creates some interesting rear end dynamics.
Front bump steer is definitely noticeable now, initially the car turns in and as it takes a set then will turn in a little more. My next mod will be bump steer adjusters and then roll center adjusters.
On expansion joints/cracks, the rear end NVH is terrible. Hopefully a slightly lower rear spring rate will fix this, might also look into a thicker rubber spring seat
I have also tried KW V3s on other vehicles. I would summarise it as follows:
Ohlins - more biased as a track suspension
KW - Better as a road biased suspension
Hi all thought I might chime in with my review of the Ohlins on a 996 C2.
This is my second set of Ohlins with my first being on my E46 M3.
Vehicle: Stock
Tires: 18" Michelin Pilot Sport 4 FR: 36 PSI, RE: 42 PSI
Front Damper Settings: 15
Rear Damper Settings 18
Installation: Pretty straight forwards and easy, only not enjoyable part was compressing the springs to get the old washers from the old dampers. Also there is no step in the front dampers so you need to double check where the location of the dampers as you clamp them in.
A note of the front springs, on mine the front adjuster collar really doesnt have much range. There are no more threads to increase spring preload and decreasing spring pre load the spring will become loose and have a range at full droop where it is unseated. Would be nice if they included a spacer or longer springs to place the adjustment collars in the middle of the front damper.
Rears dampers where very easy to install.
80% of my driving is on mountain roads. I think the spring rates are a little too high for the majority street driving and are biased towards track driving more. Im probably going to get softer front and rear springs going to start around 20-30% software rates front and rear.
A couple of noticeable changes:
Rear range of motion is decreased, it has less length full droop. This is noticeable when you hit a mid corner rear bump and the rear wheel can go airborn. Coupled with stiff rear springs, creates some interesting rear end dynamics.
Front bump steer is definitely noticeable now, initially the car turns in and as it takes a set then will turn in a little more. My next mod will be bump steer adjusters and then roll center adjusters.
On expansion joints/cracks, the rear end NVH is terrible. Hopefully a slightly lower rear spring rate will fix this, might also look into a thicker rubber spring seat
I have also tried KW V3s on other vehicles. I would summarise it as follows:
Ohlins - more biased as a track suspension
KW - Better as a road biased suspension
It's a pity a head to head in detail of all brands vs Feal 441+ seems hard to organise.
Hi all thought I might chime in with my review of the Ohlins on a 996 C2.
This is my second set of Ohlins with my first being on my E46 M3.
Vehicle: Stock
Tires: 18" Michelin Pilot Sport 4 FR: 36 PSI, RE: 42 PSI
Front Damper Settings: 15
Rear Damper Settings 18
Installation: Pretty straight forwards and easy, only not enjoyable part was compressing the springs to get the old washers from the old dampers. Also there is no step in the front dampers so you need to double check where the location of the dampers as you clamp them in.
A note of the front springs, on mine the front adjuster collar really doesnt have much range. There are no more threads to increase spring preload and decreasing spring pre load the spring will become loose and have a range at full droop where it is unseated. Would be nice if they included a spacer or longer springs to place the adjustment collars in the middle of the front damper.
Rears dampers where very easy to install.
80% of my driving is on mountain roads. I think the spring rates are a little too high for the majority street driving and are biased towards track driving more. Im probably going to get softer front and rear springs going to start around 20-30% software rates front and rear.
A couple of noticeable changes:
Rear range of motion is decreased, it has less length full droop. This is noticeable when you hit a mid corner rear bump and the rear wheel can go airborn. Coupled with stiff rear springs, creates some interesting rear end dynamics.
Front bump steer is definitely noticeable now, initially the car turns in and as it takes a set then will turn in a little more. My next mod will be bump steer adjusters and then roll center adjusters.
On expansion joints/cracks, the rear end NVH is terrible. Hopefully a slightly lower rear spring rate will fix this, might also look into a thicker rubber spring seat
I have also tried KW V3s on other vehicles. I would summarise it as follows:
Ohlins - more biased as a track suspension
KW - Better as a road biased suspension
I have the Ohlins R & T also...02 C2 Cab. I would say the Ohlins transfer more noise but less shock....especially at the settings you're on. Put some ear plugs in and maybe go by feel rather than noise.
09-06-2019, 12:22 PM
on my 997.1 s
