Oil change / cleanup, now little boost
#16
Rennlist Member
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I'm a little disorientated from the picture but from memory it's the high pressure line that goes from the pump to the square distributor (rubber mounted) up by the oil level stick. It is a bit of a pain to replace because the rubber mounted distributor is tucked up and difficult to torque due to it's mounting. Also remember it to be a strange size. Also had to take other lines going into it to access the offending line. Also have to be careful not to strip while threading it in.. Not sure what to say about tempting fate, I'd say you will probably be okay, and wouldn't have know better or worried if Overboosted didn't mention it and would have had a great day. The newer cars had the coolant lines/center lock problem at the track, the 993tt had this line go at the track, just as bad with the hydraulic oil slick and multiple offs for drivers behind the offending 993tt (not mine but a friend's blew, and I happened to be unfortunate enough to be driving behind him on the track...)
#17
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Here is a picture... Is this normal or should I clean it up?
#18
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Thinking about it, it was the same friend but when I had the off following him, he was in a 996turbo and it was a coolant line. I didn't have an off following him when the hydraulic line in his 993 turbo went, it was just messy.
#20
Race Director
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your ic looks ok to me, i have a bit of that as well.
if you still have the original black hoses, do yourself a favor and order the orange tipped ones. Should cost you a little over $300.
The test boost gauge goes to a t-line coming off a vaccum line on the drivers side engine bay. Its capped in stock form with a screw clamp. If you poke around, you should find it, but if not, let me know and I'll snap a pic for you.
if you still have the original black hoses, do yourself a favor and order the orange tipped ones. Should cost you a little over $300.
The test boost gauge goes to a t-line coming off a vaccum line on the drivers side engine bay. Its capped in stock form with a screw clamp. If you poke around, you should find it, but if not, let me know and I'll snap a pic for you.
#21
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Woo hoo! Full Boost and it builds up quickly by 4K rpm and holds... Yowza!
I swear that the passenger side hose is about 1/4 in too short on the turbo side. I adjusted the upper side to the IC perfectly but only had about 3/8 inch on the turbo end so I had to compromise. The other thing I found important is the clocking of the right hose. Since it has so many bends how it is rotated is key.
I swear that the passenger side hose is about 1/4 in too short on the turbo side. I adjusted the upper side to the IC perfectly but only had about 3/8 inch on the turbo end so I had to compromise. The other thing I found important is the clocking of the right hose. Since it has so many bends how it is rotated is key.
#22
Nordschleife Master
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Congrats. I'm glad you got it fixed. Now go get the correct Breeze clamps on there so you can get plenty of clamping torque without destroying the hoses. I didn't see your answer on the question about the improved, orange-ended hoses. If you don't, don't eat for a month, and get those too.
#23
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I will call my Indy to get a quote to replace the hydraulic lines as that looks like a job I really don't want to do. We'll see, it may be a job he doesn't like and the $ will speak to me.
Ordering the new hoses tomorrow with several sets of Intercooler/throttle body gaskets.
I do enjoy working on the car
Thanks to everybody for your involvement.
Johnny
Ordering the new hoses tomorrow with several sets of Intercooler/throttle body gaskets.
I do enjoy working on the car
Thanks to everybody for your involvement.
Johnny
#24
#25
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Crazy to buy OEM hoses at $450 a pair when you can get the S Car Go ones for less. OEM are shyte and rot when any oil contacts them, I have had 3 sets now.
Group buy is still going on, see the other post in here.
Group buy is still going on, see the other post in here.
#26
Race Director
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You can get oem for $315ish
#28
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I think my OEM ones have been on the car since Feb 1997.
I thought about the S-Car-Go ones too, but If I had to cut the tin to make them fit I would just need to resell and get the OEM. Trying to keep my car stock for about 2-3yrs or so.
Nothing about the S-Car-Go ones. So it costs me an extra $200 bucks in a year or two. I wouldn't lose sleep over it.
I do appreciate you bringing up the group buy and thinking of my needs and my pocket book.
Rennlist Rocks!
I thought about the S-Car-Go ones too, but If I had to cut the tin to make them fit I would just need to resell and get the OEM. Trying to keep my car stock for about 2-3yrs or so.
Nothing about the S-Car-Go ones. So it costs me an extra $200 bucks in a year or two. I wouldn't lose sleep over it.
I do appreciate you bringing up the group buy and thinking of my needs and my pocket book.
Rennlist Rocks!
#29
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I think my OEM ones have been on the car since Feb 1997.
I thought about the S-Car-Go ones too, but If I had to cut the tin to make them fit I would just need to resell and get the OEM. Trying to keep my car stock for about 2-3yrs or so.
Nothing about the S-Car-Go ones. So it costs me an extra $200 bucks in a year or two. I wouldn't lose sleep over it.
I do appreciate you bringing up the group buy and thinking of my needs and my pocket book.
Rennlist Rocks!
I thought about the S-Car-Go ones too, but If I had to cut the tin to make them fit I would just need to resell and get the OEM. Trying to keep my car stock for about 2-3yrs or so.
Nothing about the S-Car-Go ones. So it costs me an extra $200 bucks in a year or two. I wouldn't lose sleep over it.
I do appreciate you bringing up the group buy and thinking of my needs and my pocket book.
Rennlist Rocks!
#30
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