Brake Questions
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
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I am doing a full braking system replacement, namely rotors and pads. On dis-assembly I found no dampers with the rear pads (and they came out easily); but the fronts were a bear! I finally used a putty knife to separate the pads from the dampers and then got them out. I came to find out the dampers are glued to the backs of the pads. I am guessing that the dampers are anti-rattle devices rather than anti-squeal. Regardless, the front brakes squealed before removal.
My question is: If you plan track days and pad changes; how do you overcome the dampers and glue? Just leave the dampers out?
I did buy new dampers; but saw no easy way to glue them to the pad in the correct spot, so I punted - I sanded down the backs of the old dampers, put a little "plastilube" on them and assembled. Time will tell about squealing and rattle. At least the pads come out easily for changes on track day.
I found an RS caliper on the rear wheels. It looks like the piston(s) are larger than stock. Question: the weight transfer on braking is forward - do the larger rear pistons really make a difference? or am I missing something?
Thanks for reading....
Dennis
My question is: If you plan track days and pad changes; how do you overcome the dampers and glue? Just leave the dampers out?
I did buy new dampers; but saw no easy way to glue them to the pad in the correct spot, so I punted - I sanded down the backs of the old dampers, put a little "plastilube" on them and assembled. Time will tell about squealing and rattle. At least the pads come out easily for changes on track day.
I found an RS caliper on the rear wheels. It looks like the piston(s) are larger than stock. Question: the weight transfer on braking is forward - do the larger rear pistons really make a difference? or am I missing something?
Thanks for reading....
Dennis
#2
Rennlist Member
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I assume the 'dampers' are the anti-squeal shims. They normally just fit into the calliper pistons before the pads go in and are not attached to the pads. They get glued on with the heat. On the track most people don't bother with them, I leave mine on. I usually use some grease between the shims and pad, which burn/carbonize with the heat, which makes taking the pads out much easier.
Not sure that I've heard anyone here change their rear callipers to rs units.
Not sure that I've heard anyone here change their rear callipers to rs units.
#3
Racer
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Were to start, OK ? New antirattle shims come sticky, all u need to do is remove the cover paper. Install them into caliper pistons first, then remove cover paper, install pads, then pump brake pedal to seat them, bed pads. DO NOT use them for track use, as they can give you a spongy pedal. Also they become completely useless after the first track day once you melted the glue. Hope this helps
B
B
#5
#6
RL Technical Advisor
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A good LSD is strongly recommended when these are used to ensure stability under braking. This means either a Guard LSD or at the very least, a freshly rebuilt street unit with Guard plates.
#7
Rennlist Member
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For what conditions/handling/braking characteristics do you want to upgrade to RS units? or what improves with the rs units when braking? I probably go through one + half to two set of fronts for one rear pads. I've used different compounds front to rear i.e. yellows in front/black in rear, but have not noticed much difference. Currently using gyro disc in front/stock rear. I think stock brakes with SRF for fluid is pretty good. I spend most of my time on the track (and switch to stock pads for street driving). Is it just for longevity/reducing brake fade? (which I don't experience). Thanx
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#8
Rennlist Member
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okay found this thread. https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ferrerid=28499
I guess though the bottom line, you'd have to try it and see if you like it. Wt, 2 or 4 wd, lsd come into the picture it seems.
I guess though the bottom line, you'd have to try it and see if you like it. Wt, 2 or 4 wd, lsd come into the picture it seems.
#9
Intermediate
Thread Starter
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I went off for a test drive this AM with the new brakes (rotors and textar pads) installed. Everything works fine and no squealing!. When I purchased the car, one of my first impressions were the spongy brakes (compared to my 930). This feeling is completely gone now, although not quite the same as the 930 which felt like stepping on a brick. Undoubtedly this is the high pressure assist system insulating the driver from reality.
I certainly got a lot of feedback about the RS calipers I found on the rear of the car! I have not had this car on the track, so it will be difficult to evaluate the brake balance with these calipers installed until I do (next spring). In all probability, I will defer the evaluation to a more experienced instructor - I am a novice track driver.
I have the original TT calipers, so changing back is easy.
I also have a nearly new set of Pagid Orange pads from the PO that I will try on the track.
Thanks Everyone for the help.
Dennis
I certainly got a lot of feedback about the RS calipers I found on the rear of the car! I have not had this car on the track, so it will be difficult to evaluate the brake balance with these calipers installed until I do (next spring). In all probability, I will defer the evaluation to a more experienced instructor - I am a novice track driver.
I have the original TT calipers, so changing back is easy.
I also have a nearly new set of Pagid Orange pads from the PO that I will try on the track.
Thanks Everyone for the help.
Dennis