Engine stalls once it's warmed up
10-11-2013, 02:12 PM
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Finland
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Engine stalls once it's warmed up
Just when I got the boost issue solved I got another one.
The car runs fine when it's cold but once it warms up it stalls and refuses to start if I don't let it sit for a while. After it restarts it runs perfect until it stalls again.
The problem started at the beginning of this week. It stalled when it was warmed up and idling (say traffic lights) and refused to start if I didn't wait a minute or so.
Today I checked the exhaust emissions for the car and I had to run it quite hot. After that it stalled when it was idling but I decided to go for a test drive. It really didn't want to work. It stalled once every couple of hundred meters (even when driving 100 kph/60 mph) and every time I had to wait a minute or more to get it running again. The problem really wasn't this bad earlier this week. I tried to get back where I left but the car refused to run at all and I ended up towing it for the last 200 meters.
I got no generic OBD2 codes nor check engine light.
I cleaned the idle air control valve earlier today as I thought it was only happening on idle but obviously it didn't help.
On the last week when I still didn't have the issue I adjusted the wastegate actuators (had to disconnect the N75 boost control valve), cleaned the MAF and intake air temperature sensor, removed one of the boost hoses (checked it again and seems to be fine) and reinstalled it and removed and reinstalled the intercooler (checked this also). The last thing I did for it while it was still working was I ran the diagnostics with a durametric professional.
Here's a video I shot when I got it towed back:
Any ideas what could cause this issue?
The car runs fine when it's cold but once it warms up it stalls and refuses to start if I don't let it sit for a while. After it restarts it runs perfect until it stalls again.
The problem started at the beginning of this week. It stalled when it was warmed up and idling (say traffic lights) and refused to start if I didn't wait a minute or so.
Today I checked the exhaust emissions for the car and I had to run it quite hot. After that it stalled when it was idling but I decided to go for a test drive. It really didn't want to work. It stalled once every couple of hundred meters (even when driving 100 kph/60 mph) and every time I had to wait a minute or more to get it running again. The problem really wasn't this bad earlier this week. I tried to get back where I left but the car refused to run at all and I ended up towing it for the last 200 meters.
I got no generic OBD2 codes nor check engine light.
I cleaned the idle air control valve earlier today as I thought it was only happening on idle but obviously it didn't help.
On the last week when I still didn't have the issue I adjusted the wastegate actuators (had to disconnect the N75 boost control valve), cleaned the MAF and intake air temperature sensor, removed one of the boost hoses (checked it again and seems to be fine) and reinstalled it and removed and reinstalled the intercooler (checked this also). The last thing I did for it while it was still working was I ran the diagnostics with a durametric professional.
Here's a video I shot when I got it towed back:
Any ideas what could cause this issue?
10-12-2013, 11:20 AM
#3
Advanced
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Finland
Posts: 78
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It's not the relay.
Can someone tell me what's in the circuit between the fuel pump and the relay?
When I put a jump lead in place of the relay (R53 connectors 3 and 7), disconnect the fuel pump wires and measure the voltage I get 12v. When I reconnect the fuel pump wires it drops to 0v.
When I put a jump lead between the relay output (connector 7 on the R53 relay) and the positive terminal of the fuel pump the car runs and works fine.
So there's something between the relay and the fuel pump that can't take the load.
Can someone tell me what's in the circuit between the fuel pump and the relay?
When I put a jump lead in place of the relay (R53 connectors 3 and 7), disconnect the fuel pump wires and measure the voltage I get 12v. When I reconnect the fuel pump wires it drops to 0v.
When I put a jump lead between the relay output (connector 7 on the R53 relay) and the positive terminal of the fuel pump the car runs and works fine.
So there's something between the relay and the fuel pump that can't take the load.